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Old 04-27-2006, 12:02 AM   #16561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
nitrohouse has them for $5......
I just wanted two small (2x2 - 2x4) decals if anyone had left over decals. Not the whole thing. I guess I could go with the sheet.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:12 AM   #16562
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Originally Posted by performula
I just wanted two small (2x2 - 2x4) decals if anyone had left over decals. Not the whole thing. I guess I could go with the sheet.
ygpm.....
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Old 04-27-2006, 05:19 AM   #16563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devious17
I simple use the wide bumper minus the foam like the 1/8's do
Thats a bad idea. The foam bumper absorbs all incoming impact and does not transfer the impact to the rest of the car completely. Meanwhile the wide bumper absorbs nothing and transfers the whole impact to the rest of the car. Hence why it is suggested to use the foam bumper with the small bumper holder. Only positive side of using the wide bumper is that it can cover a wider range than the foam bumper.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:08 PM   #16564
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hmmm.......how do you explain the 1/8's then? they are faster bigger and no foam

I guess it is personal preference. One other positive side to having just the wide bumper is weight reduction
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:18 PM   #16565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81
what type of frome bumper is that on your car. and i see wholes all over it and the car, how much weight did it save you? the wholes in the bumper help with impacts doesnt it?
It's just a bumper I made with a piece of a gardener's knee pad from Walmart. The holes saved around 1.5 grams if I remember.

Riketsu is right about the wires, that's how I do it and it looks clean.
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Old 04-27-2006, 09:23 PM   #16566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devious17
hmmm.......how do you explain the 1/8's then? they are faster bigger and no foam

I guess it is personal preference. One other positive side to having just the wide bumper is weight reduction
Since when 1/10 scale is as strong as a 1/8? I guess its just personal choice as you say. But on the bumper (as well at the battery) is where I might want to have all my extra weight at.
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Old 04-27-2006, 09:35 PM   #16567
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The front bumper is one of the places that I add weight to my car. Right now I have 3 quarters in the foam bumper
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Old 04-27-2006, 11:41 PM   #16568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Thats a bad idea. The foam bumper absorbs all incoming impact and does not transfer the impact to the rest of the car completely. Meanwhile the wide bumper absorbs nothing and transfers the whole impact to the rest of the car. Hence why it is suggested to use the foam bumper with the small bumper holder. Only positive side of using the wide bumper is that it can cover a wider range than the foam bumper.
Why not dremel the plastic bumper to match the contour of foam bumber, and use them together ?

I'm using it now..... It saves the steering upright from 45 degree impacts. Anyway, I haven't test it against understeer effects.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:53 AM   #16569
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Not really enough room on 1/8 for foam. Front of body comes down real close to bumper. Foam would be too thin to be of much use.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:55 AM   #16570
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Hello!

This part thats is between the Front stab holder and the wishbone (left side), what is its purpose. I cant find anything mentioned about it in any setup guide.

In the MTX 3 manual it is called H0108B

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Old 04-28-2006, 12:48 PM   #16571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommelom
Hello!

This part thats is between the Front stab holder and the wishbone (left side), what is its purpose. I cant find anything mentioned about it in any setup guide.

In the MTX 3 manual it is called H0108B

That cam is there so you can set the droop evenly between the left and right a-arms. When you use an adjustable front sway bar, as you change droop on one side, it will also change the droop on the other side, but not in the same amount. By loosening the screw that the H0108B rides on you can rotate the cam and it will raise or lower that a-arm so you can get the droop the same on both sides.
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Old 04-29-2006, 09:29 AM   #16572
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Position the cam 1 o' clock ( turn anticlockwise ) and you should find the downstop / droop is balanced between left and right. This is at least happened in my car.
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:26 PM   #16573
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when shorting the steering servo and throttle servo wires what do you guys shorten them to? Like what inches, because I may be getting a mtx4 in a few months and dont want to shorten them to much in my mtx3 and not fit the mtx4. also what do you guys use for heat shrink such as tubing or electrical tape? A pic of this would be very much appreicated. Thanks!!!!
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:49 PM   #16574
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Team Cobra sells a mixed pack of heat shrink tubing you will want to use the smallest size they sell in that pack for your wires. As for judging the length, get a piece of thread and snake it through from the servo to the receiver. And it is not too hard to length the wires again as well.
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:38 PM   #16575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
when shorting the steering servo and throttle servo wires what do you guys shorten them to? Like what inches, because I may be getting a mtx4 in a few months and dont want to shorten them to much in my mtx3 and not fit the mtx4. also what do you guys use for heat shrink such as tubing or electrical tape? A pic of this would be very much appreicated. Thanks!!!!
Re-route the wires and fit snugly in between fuel tank and throttle servo. Don't cut the servo wires........ just in case you buy another car every year.

I usually cover the servo wires with heat shrink tubing so it last longer.
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