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Old 04-14-2006, 03:01 AM   #16501
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The MTX4 is definitely a better car than the 3.

Is it worth the upgrade???? That depends on how fast you want to go. How competetive do you want to be? What is the level of your competition? Newer doesn't always mean better, but it does in this case.
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Old 04-14-2006, 04:02 AM   #16502
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The MTX4 is much interesting than the MTX3, it responds much better than the old car to changes of setup (the 3 had a very very large tunning window). On the '4', this window is narrower and it improved on almost all areas (well, the engine is literally crammed on the '4', but this isn't a real problem).

I have the two cars, at the first went with all two to the track. Actually my MTX3 sits on the stand with a well earned resting, it served me really good for much time, gave me happy days and bitter days too, but globally was a really good car.

Still have lots of parts for my '3', probably I'll drive it some day (still has all the radio and a suitable engine), but actually my race car is the '4'.
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:45 PM   #16503
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Which gear combo offers the most even tire wear between the front and rear? I know there is the stock configuration 23T (?) and then there's a 19T (?) conversion somewhere. It's been almost a year and I forgotten everything about my car.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:17 PM   #16504
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Hi. hope someone can help.... i need to know what the hot set-up is for the mugen clutch on high bite tracks........i've been struggling with the k-factory one for the mongoose, and have decided to switch to mugen clutch...

i have a red black and grey clutch shoe........ which one provides the most slippage? i would like to know a good starting spot, and also what the different colors mean, compound wise........... i'm assuming the red is the best due to it's price

thanks in advance.................
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:59 PM   #16505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Which gear combo offers the most even tire wear between the front and rear? I know there is the stock configuration 23T (?) and then there's a 19T (?) conversion somewhere. It's been almost a year and I forgotten everything about my car.
Ive found that the 19/16 conversion (front overdrive) made the tyre wear pretty even but ive only driven my mtx3 on one track. to do the conversion you need the Kawahara conversion belt.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:01 PM   #16506
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Conversion works good on small technical tracks (i.e. parking lots). But for big tracks, the original gearings works better since the car doesnt hold back from the front overdrive.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:18 PM   #16507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
Ive found that the 19/16 conversion (front overdrive) made the tyre wear pretty even but ive only driven my mtx3 on one track. to do the conversion you need the Kawahara conversion belt.
What split do the tires need?
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:51 PM   #16508
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I used 2mm split for qualifying heats and 3mm for a 30min final.
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Old 04-16-2006, 05:45 AM   #16509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
I used 2mm split for qualifying heats and 3mm for a 30min final.
What split does the stock configuration need? Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:08 AM   #16510
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Tire split means the tire diameter differences between front and rear. When you race nitro cars with foam tires, rear tires usually wear faster than front. When it does the handling become harder to drive because rear tires is thinner than front. That's why you need split to compensate rear tire wear so hopefully at the end of race you get even wear between front and rear.

Some people choose 19/16 conversion ( need shorter side belt ) or 23T front side pulley to save rear tires. Currently MTX3 stock pulley is 24T ( front side pulley ).

Stock 23T pulley make front tires run little bit faster and thus reducing rear tire wear. You get stock 23T pulley from MTX4 pulley bags.

If you prefer stock setup.... then a 3mm split is good enough for 30min final.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:54 AM   #16511
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I know. I am trying to figure out which split is ideal for each set-up.

16/19 = 2-3mm split (this offers the most even wear correct?)
stock = same split

These are the only two set-ups correct?
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:14 AM   #16512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
I know. I am trying to figure out which split is ideal for each set-up.

16/19 = 2-3mm split (this offers the most even wear correct?)
stock = same split

These are the only two set-ups correct?
I think yes.

( you don't have to copy mine...., I usually shave 2mm front tires only ).
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:16 AM   #16513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
I know. I am trying to figure out which split is ideal for each set-up.

16/19 = 2-3mm split (this offers the most even wear correct?)
stock = same split

These are the only two set-ups correct?
Other way around... with 16/19 you should go about 1mm split since this produces a some sort of overdrive on your mtx-3 meaning your front tires will wear ALMOST as even as the rear. With stock, you should go about 2-3mm split.
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:30 AM   #16514
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Great info guys thanks.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:29 PM   #16515
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I don't have an overdrive chart for the MTX3, but you should use your tire split to adjust your handling. With either set of pulleys you can achieve the same overdrive, but it will take a different split. When you compare the stock pulley configuration to the conversion here is the difference: With stock pulleys, the front tires spin more slowly compared to the rears. Because of this you run less split to get to the same overdrive. With the conversion the opposite is true therefore you run a larger tire split to get to the same overdrive. The supposed advantage with the coversion is this: For people that wear rear tires out faster you run a much larger rear tire than front.

Going by memory to achieve the same handling characteristics I used a 1-1.5mm split with stock pulleys and a 4mm split with the conversion. I rarely ran the conversion and ran many 40-60min mains with the stock pulleys and a 1.5mm split.

Remember the important part is when you change the side pulleys and change the tire diameters you change the speed that they rotate in comparison to each other. When you change the speed one axle rotates in relationship to the other you change the way the car handles.

I had very little problem with rear tire wear. I can only talk with regards to myself but I did at one time wear rears more quickly (not nearly as much as I have heard stories about) but your driving style can make a big difference in tire wear. A car that is loose and sliding the rear end, or a car with spins the rears a lot is going to wear rear tires faster. The converse is true as well. I have had a car that pushed badly in high speed corners. This "plowing" the front wore the fronts faster than the rear.
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