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Old 03-15-2006, 07:19 PM   #16396
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ID RECOMEND THAT YOU SEE HOW MUCH A SG CRANK WILL COST YOU.THE REASON IS THAT PART YOUR LOOKING FOR RARELY RUNS TRUE.ON A CENTAX CLUTCH IF IT WOBBLES A LITTLE YOULL HAVE CLUTCH PROBLEMS
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:42 PM   #16397
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I'm shopping around online for the Mugen 4 mm chassis, part #T0407. I shopped at four places up to now and got four different prices. I got one at rcmushroom for $62.85, the second at micro rc shop for $79.99, the third at nitrohouse for $83.99 and the fourth at mugenracing for $104.99.

Now how can there be so much difference from one place to the other for the same part??? I find it odd that Mugen Racing sells a genuine Mugen part at $104 when others are selling (what is supposed to be) the same exact part for much less.

Where is this part made and for who? Is it manufactured for Mugen and Mugen distributes it to everyone else or is it manufactured by anyone who has a machine shop and they all are putting the name Mugen on them?
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:54 PM   #16398
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mistercrash: Try eBay, I got a Yokomo chassis for my GT4 for about $15 from Singapore, I seem to remember that it was SAGE brand. Seemed pretty good to me.

I am new to touring cars and as such have a very basic question, if someone would be so kind as to answer.
Is the ride height set with the springs? If so can someone please explain REBOUND STOP and BUMP STOP. Pretty basic I know, there are set screws to adjust the amount of up travel and down travel. I'm assuming these are related to thre above rebound and bump?
On the Set up sheet it looks as though the REBOUND might be the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the front and rear upright.
Thanks in advance,
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:25 AM   #16399
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I think you use slightly wrong terminology.... we call them Up Stop & Down Stop

Bump stop = Up stop = maximum up travel limit for suspension arm.

Rebound stop = Down stop = maximum down travel limit for suspension arm.

Another important stability factor is Droop ( sagging effect = the dampers is slightly compress ( sagging ) when you put your car in race ready condition on the table. Most people use 2mm droop front and 1.5mm rear droop.
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:42 AM   #16400
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asw7576, thank you that makes it clear. The rebound and bump stops were on a setup sheet that I downloaded off the web.
Thanks, Nick
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:36 AM   #16401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash
I'm shopping around online for the Mugen 4 mm chassis, part #T0407. I shopped at four places up to now and got four different prices. I got one at rcmushroom for $62.85, the second at micro rc shop for $79.99, the third at nitrohouse for $83.99 and the fourth at mugenracing for $104.99.

Now how can there be so much difference from one place to the other for the same part??? I find it odd that Mugen Racing sells a genuine Mugen part at $104 when others are selling (what is supposed to be) the same exact part for much less.

Where is this part made and for who? Is it manufactured for Mugen and Mugen distributes it to everyone else or is it manufactured by anyone who has a machine shop and they all are putting the name Mugen on them?
These are made for Mugen Seiki (japan). I don't know their actual country of origin. They are all the same chassis. Due to different shipping costs, profit margins, import duties, and exchange rates, they will cost different amounts of money depending on where you purchase the same part. Remember the shipping from Hong Kong to the USA will eat up about $20-$30. This will eat up a lot of the savings. Mugen racing USA normally charges full retail on their website so as to not compete for sales with their dealer network. They do sell parts so if their is something needed desperately their is an outlet but they do not really try to do direct sales. That is what the dealers are for.
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:38 PM   #16402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I think you use slightly wrong terminology.... we call them Up Stop & Down Stop

Bump stop = Up stop = maximum up travel limit for suspension arm.

Rebound stop = Down stop = maximum down travel limit for suspension arm.

Another important stability factor is Droop ( sagging effect = the dampers is slightly compress ( sagging ) when you put your car in race ready condition on the table. Most people use 2mm droop front and 1.5mm rear droop.

1.5mm rear droop, i use 6mm
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:19 PM   #16403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
1.5mm rear droop, i use 6mm
I think we must come out with the right terminology agreement between droop and downstop.

downstop = you measure with hudy block

droop = you measure with generic ruler.

In my car : 5mm downstop with 1.5mm droop ( sagging effect ).
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:33 PM   #16404
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Thanks for the response Scott.
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:34 PM   #16405
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Default Chassis shipping cost

I got my chassis from, shipping was $8.00

Albert Ong
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Designed in Singapore, Japanese QC and race proven in Asia
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:38 AM   #16406
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Hey guys,
I just picked up a used roller and somthings got me puzzled..
do you add washers behind the hex hub? I didnt see anything about it in the instructions. but the axles all come past the outside bearing by about 2mm. giving it at least that much play.. my first guess is the inside bearings should be wider..
any help would be appreciated..
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Old 03-24-2006, 01:34 PM   #16407
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At least you have a manual !!

I don't see it on the Mugen site.

Does anyone have clues as to where I can pick up/down load the book for the X3 ?

Jacko
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Old 03-24-2006, 01:44 PM   #16408
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I figured it out and feel stupid now...

the hex's weren't going on all the way.. once I tightened down good on the tires, the play went away...

here's a link to the manual...
http://www.teammrp.com/download.html
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:32 PM   #16409
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Brilliant, thanks a mil.

Jacko
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Old 03-26-2006, 12:11 PM   #16410
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are the Ti screws the best to get?
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