Is anyone using the MTX3 tranny for the MTX2? Any thing required for it to fit? Thanks:tire:

Hi Guys,

The long awaited Kawahara Racing Hop-ups for the MTX-3 are in stock now :) We have only a limited number in stock right now, more to come soon!

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com

yep u need an MTX3 to fit it on!!

Virgin run and some throughs.
 

Hiya!

Got a better wheater (A little cold 8ºC and sunny, track was clean and very grippy) and took me oportunity of testing more my new car.

Decided to do a clean start because last time I tested the car not represented real testing. So, took some laps of engine and clutch heating (quite difficult today with the ambient temps) with completely stock setup and finetuning the carb.

First impressions: The steering is so responsive (very quick, too much quick, frightening quick) so reduced some the steering throw and added a little of neg value to the exponential of the steering and things improved.

Figured that some of those frightening fast are caused for some parts of the setup. Done some wrenching to reduce the steering.

Swapped those 37's for 40's on front and rear (sheeesh! how I hate those 'snake' style rims) :sneaky: 37's were too soft .
Went with all the caster shims at the front (what degrees?).
Raised a little the front roll bar up to 20 or 25º.
Front clearance: 4 milimeters.
Rear clearance: 4.5 milimeters.
Rear camber at 2º.

Rear toe-in at stock seemed too much (boy! 2.5 degrees each wheel is a lot - what amount of toe-in are you using? - on the NTC3 used 1, 1.5 at each wheel 2º on some extreme cases) and created too much push on the turns, lowered to 2º on each wheel and things went better.

Other things that I noticed:

This car is a serious rear tyres eater, a set of 40's got a serious punishment and went seriously cone shaped after 7 or 8 tanks. It's normal? Noticed a lot of rear grip on the car (is very difficult to get the rear end unplanted). With 30mm at rear eats a lot of rear wheel (Started at 64, ended at 61 rears, 64 and ended 62.5 fronts). Going to the upper position of rear A-arms solved this?

The brake is very very poweful and not progressive, blocking rear wheels if you got too much brake, ended with a -60% on the brake exponential. Any througs to have a more progressive braking? Yellow pads or stick with stock? some MRX3 boys were at track and barbled with the Mini-MRX3 and suggested those pads.

A boy spared me some pinions and tested 17/21 with stock spurs, things went slightly better, but plan to do some testing with 16/20 on 46/42.

mtx3 building help
 

Hi,Step 15.I'm going crazy i cant figure out where it says which one to use for part#t0304 for me using airtronic [sanwa]servos Arm a,b or c?.I need a break anyway,Thanks p.s. Also can some one explain in short detail step 19 and the differences it would make in the car suspension ?

Yes, get the teflon(yellow) brake pads. I raced the car today with the stock brakes and everything was fine until the second qualifier. I found out the brakes had gone to crap so I had to swing and slide the car through the corners. The brake pads are on the top of my list of hop-ups to get. Another hop-up I reccomend is the kawahara brake disk for the MRX-3. It fits perfectly and does improve braking slightly.

Today was just not my day. Chassis was great but the engine bugged the hell out of me. On top of that I moved over WAY to the side for this 8th scale but the a-hole still had the audasity to t-bone me and wreck my $50 pipe. What can I say, but"What an A-hole." Some people just don't have any etiquette. I swear if I ever see him on a golf course(my turf), I'll slam one right in his direction with a 2 iron! Oh yeah, this is not the first occasion he has done this!

Re: mtx3 building help
 

On step 15 (Servo saver assy.) You don't need to choose a piece depending the servo brand you have, there are three different parts with different ackermann values (304A, 304B, 304C) the manual specifies to install the 304A part, but seemed for my personal likings too much and switched to the 304B (slightly less ackerman) and makes the steering a little more docile. Someone posted here previously that B type is their preferred too.

Step 19 (Rear A-arm assy) makes you to choose on three parts (A,B,C) and what it changes is the roll center of the car. B is the standard and gives a medium roll center. C part gives the lowest roll center and is suited for low grip track conditions (as said previously on this thread) so by elimination, A should be suited for high grip track conditions.

Seems that you've overlooked an important notice on Pg. 2 so I'll write textually: Be sure to read the instructions completely prior to assembly. (bold included) :D You asked what servo saver part is needed for your servo, but this isn't assembled until step 34...

On this thread, has some valuable information pertaining the building of your car, take your time to read. (No this isn't a RTFM advice, but almost, because mugen manual talks less than Harpo Marx, but their drawings are very good). :D

Re: mtx3 building help
 

These are for different ackerman adjustments. All will fit, A is the standard setting :)

May I suggest a wood #4? Is the preferred of Tin Cup. :sneaky: :sneaky: Seriously: yesterday saw something similar (side T-bone) and the boned got a pretty crushed X12 pipe installed only 15 minutes before.

Thanks, I will just grab the things i need for mtx3 tranny.:tire:

Hi Guys,

We have new stuff at MicroRCshop today!

T-Maxx 2.5 RTR Truck Kits
Glow Plug igniters
Fuel Bottles
Yokomo New Pinion Gears

Also, MicroRCshop is proudly sponsoring our new friend Jason Jenkins at www.MRX3.com . We are both working together to bring the latest information about the awsome MRX3 to our fellow racers. You are welcome to visit us!

Vince
www.microRCshop.com

it will not fit to the mtx2 the shaft and pullies are differant!!! and the Mtx3 2 speed uses a pin where the mtx2 uses a grub screw.

hi just wondering what springs you guys have tried how have you found the stock blue ones go? any other set up tips ?

i have only used the box setup so far

i thought about trying something else but the car handles so well now my only adjustment has been to the front swaybar

i want to get some more steering i may try 30000wt in the rear diff or softer front springs and oil

has anyone ran the same pistons in the front and rear

the setup is so good im afraid any changes i make may go from good to worse

Bought a bottle of 30000 to test this weekend, but swear for a solid spool. Smitty said me by mail that he's thinking on doing some titanium spools and dogbones.... Anyone interested on frying to PM's to smitty requesting spools? :D