Stefan,

I was meshing mine starting with the second gear and letting the first gear mesh fall where ever it did. With that method, I was still stripping the second gear. I even ran a mesh that was as tight as possible without binding and it still stripped. Once I went back to the 1.0 pitch gears, I have not had a problem with gears stripping. I even changed to a stiffer chassis and still had the problem when using the 0.8 gears. The mounts to the chassis and motor were tight and I checked after every run. Go figure. :weird:

Understood - I always check both gears when setting clearance. I will be paying more attention to these issues.

Thanks for all of the tips guys!

off topic
 

Maybe off topic here but you guys should be able to help .... I have seen many guys using a carbide coated file for doing the final tire edge trueing on foams.... Do any of you have a source for this carbide file?

You can get a file from your local Home Depot, Lowe's, or any other hardware or department store. When truing tires, you round the edges so that they don't catch when the tires roll and chunk them. Your buddies Ron Atomic and Todd Bath showed me this over a year ago.

Just get a rasp/file combination from any hardware store. Costs a fraction and does the same thing.

That's why I never switched to 0.8 module. :nod:

Nobody is able to tell me the advantage of the 0.8 modul anyways. :lol:

The 0.8 pitch gears give you a bit more top-end speed in first and second gears at mid-size to large tracks. It also gives you a bit more gear tuning for the track size over the 1.0 pitch gears. However, the 1.0 gears are thicker, tougher, and can take more abuse than the 0.8 gears. Your mesh does not have to be precise with the 1.0 over the 0.8. I did notice a difference in top-end speed and punch out of corners with the 0.8 over the 1.0 with the Mugen X-12 motor I was using. But with the stripping of the gears, it was costing me more in parts and finishing positions/trophies at the track than what it was worth. :nod:

.8 module gears have two advantages.

1st: You can make more subtle changes to your gear ratio with these gears as they have more teeth to them.

2nd: This one is minor, but is true. During the rotation of the engine, because there are more teeth the mesh is smoother. Closer to a direct drive type situation. There is less friction in the power transfer and therefore it gives a more effective transfer of power. It is slight, but there is a little bit more power with these gears.

Check & rebuild the rear bulkhead and bearings for the 2 speed shaft. I suggest to use longer screws like SJG3 x 12mm to hold the rear & front bulkheads.

After couple of month of torture, believe it or not, the spur gear actually became smaller ( less outer diameter ) despite of still okey look. You notice the bottom engine mounting screws become closer to rear side.

Also pay attention to bottom plate underneath pinion gears' endbell. Sometimes the endbell touch the bottom of chassis. You can see the scratches. I have to dremel a bit the chassis so the endbell doesn't touch it anymore.

What brand of the aforementioned stiffer chassis ?

.8 gears
 

so are .8 gears more trouble than they are worth. what is the key to get them to last and not cause problems? i am running first in points right now and just changed to .8 gears, is this a smart move?

Keep your mesh with little play and kepp your car on its wheels and you will be just fine.

I'm using 0.8 gears and I have no problem as long as the mesh is right.

Use a piece of paper in between the gears when your going to tighten the engine. Just apply pressure against the gears as much as you can. Try to apply the pressure moving the engine completely and not from an angle. When you take the piece of paper out (which has to be done by moving the gears up or down). You'll have a perfect mesh.

0.8 gears
 

I think I may have an advantage from my days of running electric touring cars, 64 pitch gears will strip if you just look at them wrong!! I have never stripped a gear since I started running the 0.8 gears, I think it due to two things:
1. Good mesh, the paper trick works if you are new to the fine tooth gear mesh game. Be sure to check your 1st gear mesh if you set the second gear with the first gear removed, the 2nd gear can "appear" to be set right but the motor can be cocked to one side and then your 1st gear mesh will be too tight or loose.
2. Don't hit the dots (duh?) this causes the 2nd gear alot of strain when the wheels contact the track again because the 2nd gear engages in the air and slams it with too much torque.

Is it worth the added expense to switch from 1.0 gears? No if you don't pay attention to the mesh, Yes for the performance advantage if you do, my humble opinion.

so mesh it right and stay on the ground. sounds good thanks