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Old 07-01-2005, 10:13 AM   #15451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadJabba
hi. is there a good tool i can buy to get the flywheel nut off?

i use my regular 4 way cross wrench (from my 1/8 scale) but the engine shaft hits before i can get to the nut...

is there a specific branded tool that takes off the nut?
OFNA makes a good four way wrench for this.
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:16 AM   #15452
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Originally Posted by ROBBIE C
OFNA makes a good four way wrench for this.

Hudy makes a four way wrench that fits this as well as a glow plug wrench.
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Old 07-01-2005, 11:20 AM   #15453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Currently using 10K in the rear diff.

Which should I go with, 30K or 50K?

Permanent track, the track is BRAND new.

heres a pic

http://acesnitrorc.com/trackfiles/images/scantrack.jpg

30K or 50K?

Light blue, dark blue, or grey springs.

What kind of shock oil

thx.
Anyone?

I've asked 3 questions in this thread and no one has answered any, guess this board isnt being very helpful...

The mugen forum is also down, I think i'd be better off getting support at mytsn.
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:06 PM   #15454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Anyone?

I've asked 3 questions in this thread and no one has answered any, guess this board isnt being very helpful...

The mugen forum is also down, I think i'd be better off getting support at mytsn.
Thats not the way to get an answer to your questions.
The reason why they were never answered might be becuse they were never asked. rephrase your questions and I bet they'll get answered.
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:09 PM   #15455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
I have a brand new X-12.

So far my pinion gears are stock but my spur gears are 44/48.

So its:

1st = 16-48

2nd = 20-44

Think my gearing is okay for the X-12?

I also have these spare spur gears:

2nd gear- 43 T

1st gear- 46 T

1st gear- 47 T

I can switch to these if nessesary, thanks.







EDIT:

I noticed the .08 gears are WAY different, do you think I should get those for the x-12?

The only place I can find them is at nitrohouse.
I'm trying to figure out what does the spur gears have to do with you having a new X-12......?
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:11 PM   #15456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Anyone?

I've asked 3 questions in this thread and no one has answered any, guess this board isnt being very helpful...

The mugen forum is also down, I think i'd be better off getting support at mytsn.
Anyone that answers that last question without actually driving the track is just guessing so you won't get the magical answer from someone here that's never driven the track. There's 500 pages of mugen talk, your question has been answered in there dozens of time I'm sure. Don't bother going back and reading some of it or anything. It's probably best to get a setup from someone at the track.

The track can be permanent and BRAND new and still have crappy traction. But if it's got good traction, conventional wisdom on a large, fast track means a stiff car. So try grey springs with heavy oil (700 maybe) and a 50k diff. If it's too stiff then adjust it accordingly till you get the handling you want. I hope that's the magical answer you were looking for.

And mytsn blows for getting answers anyways.
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:35 AM   #15457
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had the same problem with my wrench so i went to my hardware store and found a 10mm toolman brand deep enough to take out the nut.$1.5 down on my rc budget!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadJabba
hi. is there a good tool i can buy to get the flywheel nut off?

i use my regular 4 way cross wrench (from my 1/8 scale) but the engine shaft hits before i can get to the nut...

is there a specific branded tool that takes off the nut?
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Old 07-02-2005, 10:04 PM   #15458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzoY5
Anyone that answers that last question without actually driving the track is just guessing so you won't get the magical answer from someone here that's never driven the track. There's 500 pages of mugen talk, your question has been answered in there dozens of time I'm sure. Don't bother going back and reading some of it or anything. It's probably best to get a setup from someone at the track.

The track can be permanent and BRAND new and still have crappy traction. But if it's got good traction, conventional wisdom on a large, fast track means a stiff car. So try grey springs with heavy oil (700 maybe) and a 50k diff. If it's too stiff then adjust it accordingly till you get the handling you want. I hope that's the magical answer you were looking for.

And mytsn blows for getting answers anyways.
Thanks,

I decided to go with 30K, see how that is, then maybe move to 50K.

I ordered the Prospec dark blue springs F/R.

I got the Prospec engine mounts since my current ones stripped causing my Spur/Clutch bell mesh to move and it ended up stripping my first gear. No problem though, I have plently of spare spurs until my .8's arrive.

I ordered the stock Prospec gearing (.8 Fine Pitch), I BELIEVE its 21/27, 53/59, not sure.

I was shifting to early with my new engine so I tightened the two screws in the spur gears clutch shoes, the ones with the springs, not the screws with the balls, I tightened them 1/2 a turn, then i'll go from there.

So far so good.

I dont know how to tell when to move up to 50K,

I also decided not to mess with the shock oil.



BTW, my x-12 is killer.

Do you guys think 10 heat cycles was enough?

I ran the first four heat cycles for 2-3 min between cooling thems, the next two for 4 min between cooling times, and the last four for 5 min between cooling times, always leaving the piston at BDC, this took 2 tanks,

I already race tunned the engine and drove it around the track, think I should of done a few more cycles?

The bess method says 20-25 min which I did so I hope i'm okay.


Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2005, 06:41 AM   #15459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Thanks,

I decided to go with 30K, see how that is, then maybe move to 50K.

I ordered the Prospec dark blue springs F/R.

I got the Prospec engine mounts since my current ones stripped causing my Spur/Clutch bell mesh to move and it ended up stripping my first gear. No problem though, I have plently of spare spurs until my .8's arrive.

I ordered the stock Prospec gearing (.8 Fine Pitch), I BELIEVE its 21/27, 53/59, not sure.

I was shifting to early with my new engine so I tightened the two screws in the spur gears clutch shoes, the ones with the springs, not the screws with the balls, I tightened them 1/2 a turn, then i'll go from there.

So far so good.

I dont know how to tell when to move up to 50K,

I also decided not to mess with the shock oil.



BTW, my x-12 is killer.

Do you guys think 10 heat cycles was enough?

I ran the first four heat cycles for 2-3 min between cooling thems, the next two for 4 min between cooling times, and the last four for 5 min between cooling times, always leaving the piston at BDC, this took 2 tanks,

I already race tunned the engine and drove it around the track, think I should of done a few more cycles?

The bess method says 20-25 min which I did so I hope i'm okay.


Thanks.
The best way to determine if 50k is better is to try it out. If your times are faster, it's obviously better. That's pretty much the way for everything. I was testing the Kawahara sway bar at my local track which is medium traction. I was almost a whole second slower with the Kawahara bar. Once I put the 2.5mm sway back on, I cut the times back down. I also forget to follow my own advice out of laziness sometimes. Yesterday I put 30k in the rear and cut down a half second each lap from 10k. I knew it's usually a faster setup, but I've been too lazy to change the diff. Your gear selection is fine if you wanted the prospec setup. The dark springs should help a bit if it's a good traction track. The engine should be good to go. You can at least start to race tune it now. You'll know it's broken in for sure if it's running good, then suddenly goes rich, this happens sometimes and that means it's ready to go. But sometimes you'll miss this so don't worry if you don't see it. Good luck.
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:45 PM   #15460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzoY5
The best way to determine if 50k is better is to try it out. If your times are faster, it's obviously better. That's pretty much the way for everything. I was testing the Kawahara sway bar at my local track which is medium traction. I was almost a whole second slower with the Kawahara bar. Once I put the 2.5mm sway back on, I cut the times back down. I also forget to follow my own advice out of laziness sometimes. Yesterday I put 30k in the rear and cut down a half second each lap from 10k. I knew it's usually a faster setup, but I've been too lazy to change the diff. Your gear selection is fine if you wanted the prospec setup. The dark springs should help a bit if it's a good traction track. The engine should be good to go. You can at least start to race tune it now. You'll know it's broken in for sure if it's running good, then suddenly goes rich, this happens sometimes and that means it's ready to go. But sometimes you'll miss this so don't worry if you don't see it. Good luck.

Cool, thanks.




By the way, the x-12 is awsome, big differecne from the Mr-12.
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Old 07-04-2005, 12:12 AM   #15461
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Im going to order heavier shock oil.

50, 60, or maybe even 70W.

What negative effects can oil thats to heavy have.

I read the thicker the oil, the faster steering response, more staight line stability, more traction.

Only negative is its not good on bumpy tracks, my track is no where near bumpy, its brand new, so should I just do 60F/70R or start with 50F/60R.

Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:18 AM   #15462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Im going to order heavier shock oil.

50, 60, or maybe even 70W.

What negative effects can oil thats to heavy have.

I read the thicker the oil, the faster steering response, more staight line stability, more traction.

Only negative is its not good on bumpy tracks, my track is no where near bumpy, its brand new, so should I just do 60F/70R or start with 50F/60R.

Thanks.
Go to this sitehttp://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/ and it should answer many of your questions. Look at the Touring Car Setup Guide
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:31 AM   #15463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
Im going to order heavier shock oil.

50, 60, or maybe even 70W.

What negative effects can oil thats to heavy have.

I read the thicker the oil, the faster steering response, more staight line stability, more traction.

Only negative is its not good on bumpy tracks, my track is no where near bumpy, its brand new, so should I just do 60F/70R or start with 50F/60R.

Thanks.

thicker shock oil, or less holes in piston means slower steering response. not quicker.
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Old 07-04-2005, 11:30 AM   #15464
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Thats weird, in my Serpent Vector tech book, it says heavier the oil faster the steering response.


Maybe its wrong, dont know.
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Old 07-04-2005, 02:23 PM   #15465
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MTX-4 Posted on Mugen Web Site!!!!!!!!!!!
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