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Old 06-01-2005, 03:58 AM   #15226
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A block will give you more chassis roll, therefore it is suitable for low grip tarmacs ( if you need more rear traction ) and vice versa.
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:04 PM   #15227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
If it is a copper spring with about 3 coils in it it is a Kyosho clutch spring, it is harder then the Mugen stiff one.
Wow...that I didn't know, I will go home and take a picture and have you guys to ID the spring for me..............the probably I have is the centax has too much PUNCH on the low-speed (launch or exiting corner).......I have already dialed the pressure nut to the edge of the thread, I cannot go any softer about the pre-load.

Thanks for the info....
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:10 PM   #15228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion

THis is determined by how fast you screw the shock caps at the top after refilling with oil. Faster screwing motion = faster rebound rate.
Isn't the damper speed is controlled by the # of damper's hole or damper hole's sizes...? Faster rebound with more (larger) holes and slower rebound with less (smaller) holes....
About closing the cap....you closed it fast enough, it might ended up too much oil inside the shock, vice versa if you turn it too slow and oil splitted out from the shock..........just my 0.02
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:40 PM   #15229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I think you got it wrong for low bite and high bite track applications:

A rear block = give you the most body roll = more grip possibility

B rear block = pick this one

C rear block = give you the least body roll = slightly less grip.

Generally A block is preferable for drivers who want the most rear grip, while C block is suitable for drivers who want rear tires to slide at medium or low speed corners. B block is neutral.

cold fusion has it right, I would use a for high bite b med, and c for low bite. the c having the most ammt of grip. you also have to consider that when changing roll center blocks you might have to change to a softer or harder spring to balance out the car.
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Old 06-01-2005, 04:54 PM   #15230
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with the mugen bladder type shocks it does not matter how fast or slow you install the cap. you are supposed to fill the body to the top with fluid and lightly install the cap. to bleed the shock you push the shaft to the top to dispense excess fluid out the hole in the cap. then fully tighten the cap. make sure you do not hear air- and I like the shocks to rebound just a bit without the springs installed.

if you just fill the body and install the cap with the shaft at the bottom, your shock will hydraulically bind on the way up. basically when you bleed them, you are removing the oil volume of the shaft as it displaces fliuid out of the loose cap.
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Old 06-01-2005, 06:09 PM   #15231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
with the mugen bladder type shocks it does not matter how fast or slow you install the cap. you are supposed to fill the body to the top with fluid and lightly install the cap. to bleed the shock you push the shaft to the top to dispense excess fluid out the hole in the cap. then fully tighten the cap. make sure you do not hear air- and I like the shocks to rebound just a bit without the springs installed.

if you just fill the body and install the cap with the shaft at the bottom, your shock will hydraulically bind on the way up. basically when you bleed them, you are removing the oil volume of the shaft as it displaces fliuid out of the loose cap.
very good point
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Old 06-01-2005, 06:48 PM   #15232
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since the discusion is on shocks, what about oil viscocity? I run the trinity oils, ranging from 10wt to 100wt. I have been running around 45-55, but I went to a track that the car looked like a rabbit jumping around due to the surface was realy bumpy. Even ran the car at 8mm. In a situatioin like this what would be recommended. I was going to go to 80-90wt oil and smaller dampening hole piston.
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Old 06-01-2005, 07:30 PM   #15233
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Default Protecting your Chassis

Question to all. Is there a need to protect the bottom of the chassis if the ride hieght/tire sizes are correct? Oh and the right weight oil in all four corners? Just got a 3Racing Chassis with engine mount and would like to keep from scraping the bottom.
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Old 06-01-2005, 08:10 PM   #15234
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Tazman,
Just purchase some Team Associated chassis protecting film. Part # 6312, cost about $8.50 through your local shop.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:11 AM   #15235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
since the discusion is on shocks, what about oil viscocity? I run the trinity oils, ranging from 10wt to 100wt. I have been running around 45-55, but I went to a track that the car looked like a rabbit jumping around due to the surface was realy bumpy. Even ran the car at 8mm. In a situatioin like this what would be recommended. I was going to go to 80-90wt oil and smaller dampening hole piston.
generally, the smoother the track, the harder shock setup you can do to your car for the aggressive feel. the bumpier the track, the softer you go on shock oil and spring. at least this is what i personally do and had better luck with it.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:12 AM   #15236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazman34685
Question to all. Is there a need to protect the bottom of the chassis if the ride hieght/tire sizes are correct? Oh and the right weight oil in all four corners? Just got a 3Racing Chassis with engine mount and would like to keep from scraping the bottom.

the bottom will get scratched no matter what you do. and besides, it looks like a race car when it does.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:41 AM   #15237
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Where can I find a downloadable manual besides the one on MugenRacing.com? That is a supplmental manual to the Prospec; it only has the upgrades explosions.
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Old 06-02-2005, 11:22 AM   #15238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazman34685
Question to all. Is there a need to protect the bottom of the chassis if the ride hieght/tire sizes are correct? Oh and the right weight oil in all four corners? Just got a 3Racing Chassis with engine mount and would like to keep from scraping the bottom.
I think there are no solution for your answer....even with the AE protecting film, your chassis (after several weekend of racing) will ended up chipping and film coming out piece piece......that looks 100 times worst then without the film.....your chassis is there to protect the whole car and flywheel/engine....you don't need to protect the chassis...........chassis is there to take the abuse, and 3RACING one are thick and strong for that reason.........

Again, don't worry about protecting the chassis unless you are just bashing or leave your car on the shelve forever.
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Old 06-02-2005, 11:24 AM   #15239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
since the discusion is on shocks, what about oil viscocity? I run the trinity oils, ranging from 10wt to 100wt. I have been running around 45-55, but I went to a track that the car looked like a rabbit jumping around due to the surface was realy bumpy. Even ran the car at 8mm. In a situatioin like this what would be recommended. I was going to go to 80-90wt oil and smaller dampening hole piston.
If your track is bumply and low traction, you suppose to use lighter oil, lighter spring rates and more OPEN damper for faster rebounce reaction.........one more key adjustment, your droop.........that will make a lot of different (more droop on a very bumply track, less for smooth track)
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Old 06-03-2005, 12:12 AM   #15240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Isn't the damper speed is controlled by the # of damper's hole or damper hole's sizes...? Faster rebound with more (larger) holes and slower rebound with less (smaller) holes....
About closing the cap....you closed it fast enough, it might ended up too much oil inside the shock, vice versa if you turn it too slow and oil splitted out from the shock..........just my 0.02
Yes the damper controls the rebound speed. But just try and screw the cap faster and you will notice the rebound on the shaft is faster with all other factors equal and vis a versa if you close the cap slowly.

Last edited by coldfusion; 06-03-2005 at 01:18 AM.
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