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Old 07-05-2005, 03:57 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by sonik


in the mean time , any idea's as how to get this out ?
heat it up to 270-290 F and push it from the bottom. if you have acces to Lathe machine-you can make some extractor tool. if you have, let me know and I will give you the drawings.
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Old 07-05-2005, 04:16 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Gun 777
heat it up to 270-290 F and push it from the bottom. if you have acces to Lathe machine-you can make some extractor tool. if you have, let me know and I will give you the drawings.
Edward
Man......what happened here?
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Old 07-05-2005, 04:31 PM   #123
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dont have a lathe unfortunately ,
what could i use to push it from the bottom ? the only way to get to it, is from the backplate, and the piston/conrod etc are in the way and wont comeout without the sleeve/liner out of the way,
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Old 07-05-2005, 06:29 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Sonik dude ..... how come your JP FX is silver body and mine is black ??
It's the stock version, with a blue-white instead of black box. I believe it has the same crankshaft modification but without the sleeve porting. On the website it stated that the stock version also comes with HardBlack Coating. When I opened, Its looks more like dark grey than black.
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Old 07-05-2005, 07:15 PM   #125
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i finally managed to get the broken sleeve out , here are the bits , what do you guy's think ?
will i be able to clean the block ?
can the crank be saved ?







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Old 07-05-2005, 07:43 PM   #126
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I wouldn't even waste the money bro. I would just knuckle up and get a new engine. It wouldn't be worth the hassle to me. Just my humble opinion. Good luck
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Old 07-05-2005, 07:52 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by espo16
I wouldn't even waste the money bro. I would just knuckle up and get a new engine. It wouldn't be worth the hassle to me. Just my humble opinion. Good luck
i'm feeling ya bro, but what a waste , its only seen 2 hours of runing at that , didnt even get to feel the engine moving lol. it's not even run/broken in yet
thats why its killing me to just throw it away ...
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:28 PM   #128
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Sonik, no offense. But the best way right now is to but a new one.
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:26 PM   #129
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i'm feeling u man... but i agree with the others, i think by getting a new one you will save money and save your time.

true, it just ran for 2 hours or so, and you didn't get to see it perform, but like you said at least you can learn something from it.

except if you want to learn how to restore it though

no offense, anyway it's just my 2 cents, decision is yours.
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Old 07-06-2005, 02:19 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by dodo
i'm feeling u man... but i agree with the others, i think by getting a new one you will save money and save your time.

true, it just ran for 2 hours or so, and you didn't get to see it perform, but like you said at least you can learn something from it.

except if you want to learn how to restore it though

no offense, anyway it's just my 2 cents, decision is yours.
r you sure you didn't put that crank in salty water for3 weeks?

man i have never seen anything like that. that case is so rusted!

honestly, send it back to JP or send JP a email. better yet contact the people that make your fuel and tell them WITH PICTURES what their top quality fuel did to your motor, and suggest a refund of the cost of the motor. it is not your fault dude.
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Old 07-06-2005, 06:49 AM   #131
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Are we sure that this is rust? Last time I checked Aluminum doesn't rust...have you tried a chrome polish paste with a dremel (with a cloth adapter)?

Try soaking it in Kerosene for a while (Not that long..like 5 min), then rinse in Methyl Hydrate (brushing the residue off at each stage). Then try the chrome polish (I use Blue Magic) with a dremel at medium speed. Apply a small amount to the crank and also the cloth adapter.

Give it a shot...what do you have to loose? Try the crank first as this is the easiest part to attempt with.

John
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Old 07-06-2005, 07:32 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
r you sure you didn't put that crank in salty water for3 weeks?

man i have never seen anything like that. that case is so rusted!

honestly, send it back to JP or send JP a email. better yet contact the people that make your fuel and tell them WITH PICTURES what their top quality fuel did to your motor, and suggest a refund of the cost of the motor. it is not your fault dude.

now thats not a bad idea , had a look for odonnel website but cant find it ?
anyone know the site ?

found this but link dont work !! www.odonnellracing.com/
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Old 07-06-2005, 08:00 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrabbito
Are we sure that this is rust? Last time I checked Aluminum doesn't rust...have you tried a chrome polish paste with a dremel (with a cloth adapter)?

Try soaking it in Kerosene for a while (Not that long..like 5 min), then rinse in Methyl Hydrate (brushing the residue off at each stage). Then try the chrome polish (I use Blue Magic) with a dremel at medium speed. Apply a small amount to the crank and also the cloth adapter.

Give it a shot...what do you have to loose? Try the crank first as this is the easiest part to attempt with.

John
exactly what i am thinking , what have i to lose !!
gonna give the cleaning a try ,
whats methyl hydrate ?
and when you say cloth adapter you mean the white soft bit ?
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Old 07-06-2005, 08:29 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrabbito
Are we sure that this is rust? Last time I checked Aluminum doesn't rust...have you tried a chrome polish paste with a dremel (with a cloth adapter)?

Try soaking it in Kerosene for a while (Not that long..like 5 min), then rinse in Methyl Hydrate (brushing the residue off at each stage). Then try the chrome polish (I use Blue Magic) with a dremel at medium speed. Apply a small amount to the crank and also the cloth adapter.

Give it a shot...what do you have to loose? Try the crank first as this is the easiest part to attempt with.

John
hey John- it's Corey from Hamilton last weekend.

Aluminum can kinda rust- it's called galvanic corrosion. two dis-similiar metals in contact with a conductive liquid is all you need. Many factors to consider, but it can happen as in this case. I would say it was NOT fuel induced, but moisture absorbed by the fuel left in the engine along with a high humidity environment for storage of the engine.

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:15 AM   #135
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almost all the parts on your picture can be polished and clean..................except, the crankcase, espeically the internal, tried the above mentioned methrod, but I really don't see how you can clean up the internal of the crank case.......

In USA, someone can get millions because the McDonald's hot coffee was too hot.............anything is possible, you have nothing to lose now, send pictures to the fuel company, the after run oil company, JP, Mugen.....you will never know, they might send you a cheaper version of JP and do a study of this engine and find out how could that be possible to have rust like that in 3 days...
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