R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-04-2005, 12:40 AM   #76
Tech Addict
 
fraz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 653
Send a message via AIM to fraz
Default

I do know nitro motors very well and there are two facts for sure.

Fact: This can happen and has happened to me but the rust was nowhere near that advanced of a state.

Fact: This is a bad fuel problem.

My experience happened a couple years ago with 2 brand new .21 motors, one a Paris Picco, one Novarossi. I was at the regionals which is a multi-day race. On the first motor (Picco), broke it in and started tuning that day. Got to the first qualifier and the motor that wasn't even leaned down yet popped. Needless to say, I had to break in the Novarossi pronto. There was plenty of time between rounds and I used up my next qualifier to putt around the outside line and come in to gradually lean it down. The day was over but I stayed to get my motor tuned for the next day. The motor started coming in and all of the sudden died on the back straight. I brought it in and sure enough the fluwheel wouldn't rotate all the way around by hand (always a bad sign). Two new popped motors in one day? Is this possible?

Well I tore 'em down and surprisingly they had the same problem. They were filled with rust and the races of the main bearings were broken sending pieces of the race and balls floating around in the case. They were both running brand new O'Donnell 30% and there is no question that was the culprit. BTW, both motors were running 200-205F and nowhere near being race lean yet. I switched from that fuel that day and never looked back.

Honestly, had this not happened to me, I wouldn't believe this guy either.

sonik: That motor is a roach now. There are no salvageable parts IMO with the possible exception of the carb if you tear it down and clean it. While it may not be polite, sKiMpYbOy's message was the best advice here and you need a new motor and don't waste your time with this one. My other advice... heat it up to ~1000F and melt it into a cool looking paperweight
fraz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 12:41 AM   #77
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

i must say you probably are better off just getting a new motor, this thing is going to take many hours to get running right, and after u put in the house and at least $100.00 it still probably wont run 100%. if u do go for it, hope you get it working. I have never seen a motor do that, the worst i have seen we some guy that came into our LHS with a paris modified .21, he was trying to get the clutch nut tight and was using a screwdriver to hold the piston down, and punched a hole through the top of the piston and jacked up every thing else inside the motor. Oh well good luck getting it running.
ATXPro4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 12:59 AM   #78
Tech Fanatic
 
kickass's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Sydney
Posts: 775
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default DUUUDE!!!!

Duuuuude,
a couple of sujestions
1) steer away from all water based after run fluids
2) next time dont run your R/C submarine in salt water with the hatch open.
Maaaaaate!!!!!~
kickass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 01:09 AM   #79
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,196
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonik
i tryed the zip tie trick , but no luck with that just kept snapping them ,

the fuel is ok , not old, i'm using it in my other cars . it's Odonnel 20% rtr

and your other engines are threated the same and don't have any problem?.....
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 07:31 AM   #80
Tech Apprentice
 
sonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: london UK
Posts: 63
Send a message via MSN to sonik
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
and your other engines are threated the same and don't have any problem?.....
yeah , using the same fuel with mach26 , nova mr12, idm, wasp turbo, ss25,
and they are all fine, but i did run/break these engines in properly without leaving them halfway through,
sonik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 07:49 AM   #81
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,196
Default

Maybe that was the problem, because of the rich setting.....
that way, a lot of nitro was still left in the engine, and nitro loves to bind with water.......
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 07:53 AM   #82
Tech Apprentice
 
sonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: london UK
Posts: 63
Send a message via MSN to sonik
Default

that does seem the most logical reason, that was suggested to me a while back , i have to agree, cos the other engine's are fine on that fuel ,

dont want to change my fuel now , but scared of Odonnel now lol
sonik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 07:55 AM   #83
Tech Master
 
TRAJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,203
Default

Also did you run the engine dry completly? If not the unburnt fuel would have done what has happened to your motor.
TRAJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 07:59 AM   #84
Tech Apprentice
 
sonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: london UK
Posts: 63
Send a message via MSN to sonik
Default

the be honest , i cant remember if i burnt evry last drop of fuel , i was running my other cars at the time aswell and was a bit confusing,

but i probably didnt , an expensive lesson , and a lesson to everyone else , idle the engine out aftre your run and make sure there isnt a drop left in the engine ,
sonik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 08:28 AM   #85
Tech Elite
 
VenomWorldOrder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: www.RCunderground.net
Posts: 4,063
Default

dude you got a faulty motor no doubts about it. leaving fuel in a motor can't do THAT MUCH damage

the exhasut port looks all pitted like it was in a tub of salty water or something.

when breaking in a motor always take it out of the car if possible, clean it up on the outside with metho, then drown the internals with automatic transmition fluid through the carby and glow plu as well as the port. if you are confident take motor apart (just heatsink and sleave, piston will be too hard and dip the sleave in auto matic transmition fluid. drown the inside of the motor with it also.

then the next day when you are continuing the break in clean it with metho so it isn't hard to start and start it up.

always use a fan when doing static break in.
VenomWorldOrder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 08:36 AM   #86
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: phila, pa
Posts: 162
Send a message via AIM to frank13
Default

ok , i just pull my mt-12 apart today, it has sat since the last weekend of racing(jun3rd i think) , fuel still in the tank, was not run dry, no aro at all, do u know what i found, a speck of rust! just a very very very small amount, i am using fuel dating back to sept of last year that was used, but sealed well,


hmmm, i wonder what i did different from you!
frank13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 08:46 AM   #87
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by frank13
hmmm, i wonder what i did different from you!
Your's is after a racing day, he's after engine break-in procedure
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 09:23 AM   #88
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: phila, pa
Posts: 162
Send a message via AIM to frank13
Default

sorry, i forgot what a difference that will make,lol
frank13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 12:31 PM   #89
Tech Apprentice
 
sonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: london UK
Posts: 63
Send a message via MSN to sonik
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
dude you got a faulty motor no doubts about it. leaving fuel in a motor can't do THAT MUCH damage

the exhasut port looks all pitted like it was in a tub of salty water or something

i dont know what's going on , as i say i have done nothing different from my other engines and this is the result , .

here's a pic of the aro i'm using , any1 else use this stuff ?



and heres a pic of the jp before horror

sonik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2005, 12:44 PM   #90
Tech Master
 
onnetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,727
Default

what kind of oil is in the valvespout container?
onnetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.21 onroad engine - hand-ported factory engine GlennCauley R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 02-25-2008 11:52 AM
GO 28R/Full Starter Engine GRracing Ver.Team Fully Modified Engine handpiece Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 07-28-2007 03:42 AM
Ofna Picco .21B 3 Port engine, good budget engine Cain Electric Off-Road 1 03-26-2007 08:32 AM
selling custom savage roller with engine, truck zillia modded engine.$275 pat360xboxhalo3 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 01-11-2007 05:23 AM
Engine Temperatures for Break-In and Normal Use for XTM 24.7 Engine. Head Shims? racer rich Nitro On-Road 0 12-13-2002 11:49 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:31 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net