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Old 07-03-2005, 09:39 AM   #61
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couldnt find my can of wd40 around , so i decided to try and pry it out with flat head driver on both sides to ease it gently, it was coming out nicely untill i got to the port's and i suppose it was to weak at that point to take the pressure of me pulling on it , and POP it snapped ,

i'm learning the hard way lol

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Old 07-03-2005, 10:15 AM   #62
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And you still believe that this is engine problem?
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Old 07-03-2005, 10:25 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
And you still believe that this is engine problem?
i didnt say that ??????? but i havent done anything different from what i have done with my other engines and i never got this before,

hence my reason for saying it put me off jp's a bit , not saying i would never get another one , but i will be carefull when doing so,
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Old 07-03-2005, 11:49 AM   #64
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any bright spark got an idea as to how i can get this out ? want to get the rest of the bits out to see if they will get clean with wd40,
but the broken sleevs is in the way ,
i dont want to damage the engine anynore than i already have , notice all the scratches and marks on the top from where i was trying to get the sleeve out ,

this has turned out to be an expensive lesson , but atleast i'm getting experience ,

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Old 07-03-2005, 12:00 PM   #65
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It is like a horror movie of JP eposode............the 1/2 sleeve picture is almost as horror as the first time I saw the movie "JAWS" when I was like 7....I think I will have a nightmare tonight....

BTW, good luck for the project.....yes, it is a recovery project now, you will need a new engine for race.
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:02 PM   #66
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Wow, the only things I can think of are to either drive it back down and risk scoring the block with the sharp broken edges or cut a vertical slot in the sleeve so it will compress and you can pull it out. You can also bore it out with a machining tool untill the sleeve dissapears. Is there enough room to remove the piston and conrod from the crank?
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:12 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
It is like a horror movie of JP eposode............the 1/2 sleeve picture is almost as horror as the first time I saw the movie "JAWS" when I was like 7....I think I will have a nightmare tonight....

BTW, good luck for the project.....yes, it is a recovery project now, you will need a new engine for race.

i'm glad i'm not the only one having horror's , JAWS lol atleast you made me laugh a bit , cos believe me dont feel like laughing when looking at this pile of jp in the box ..

luckily i have other engine's an idm 5port if i get into racing , i'm sure that will do the trick , it's way to fast lol, got it running rich cos it's to fast for me
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:46 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Wow, the only things I can think of are to either drive it back down and risk scoring the block with the sharp broken edges or cut a vertical slot in the sleeve so it will compress and you can pull it out. You can also bore it out with a machining tool untill the sleeve dissapears. Is there enough room to remove the piston and conrod from the crank?
thanks for the idea's , i have a dremel , so maybe i could try and cut it , but would be a bit wworried about cutting the inside of the block
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Old 07-03-2005, 01:01 PM   #69
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I only read 2 pages but did you try heating it up good with a hair dryer?

Might of helped.
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Old 07-03-2005, 01:21 PM   #70
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I just seen this thread and I wanted to comment. I believe this can happen, I've seen it happen. I was in Lakeland and seen an engine that was run-in 2 weeks before and put away. The following week, a friend of the person who owned the engine blew his up and needed one and he allowed him to run it. After installing it in the car, he hit the track and it was making some horrible noise, squeeling like a pig. He pulled the engine and opened it up and it was toasted inside, rusted worse than this one. What caused it was the fuel that they were running. The week they run the engine in, they were out of what they normaly ran, so they got what they could and ran it. It ran good. they put after-run in it, but he said he didn't rotate the engine, just put it in the carb and let it soak in. The engine was promptly tossed and I cannot remember who picked it up, but they tried to pull it apart but couldn't get the sleeve out of it.
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Old 07-03-2005, 02:24 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
..... they put after-run in it, but he said he didn't rotate the engine, just put it in the carb and let it soak in...........
I can only imagine the exact same happened here.....
I've seen people put after run in there engine and didn't rotate it also...

What I ALWAYS do after a racing day.....
empty the tank, start the engine, keep it in idle, until it shuts down.
Remove the plug and air filter, put some after-run on both sides in the engine,
they rotate by hand and press the car for .5 Seconds on the starterbox......
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Old 07-03-2005, 05:22 PM   #72
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i think its time for a new motor. this time keep it out of bath tub.
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Old 07-03-2005, 05:40 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocca30
i think its time for a new motor. this time keep it out of bath tub.

thats really smart . you must have brain's spilling out all over the place
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Old 07-03-2005, 05:42 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
I can only imagine the exact same happened here.....
I've seen people put after run in there engine and didn't rotate it also...

What I ALWAYS do after a racing day.....
empty the tank, start the engine, keep it in idle, until it shuts down.
Remove the plug and air filter, put some after-run on both sides in the engine,
they rotate by hand and press the car for .5 Seconds on the starterbox......
I do the same thing sometimes, but I can't imagine running the engine dry can be good for it..
if I'm done running for the day I will pull the motor and remove the backplate to make sure all the fuel is drained and flush with after run oil or wd40..
and since we're talking about motor maintenance another thing I quit doing is reusing air filters.. I can get two for $3.89 and to me that seems worth it just not having to clean and oil up the old ones..
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Old 07-03-2005, 11:47 PM   #75
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Sonik, I feel sorry for your JP horror too. I think your recovery project will cost you alot of bucks instead (since your sleeve also already broken up). Take a look at the crankshaft, carb and the case, if rusts still stay permanently on them, I'm not very sure about its performance later even you buy a brandnew P/S set. Compared to the results you get in the future with this engine. Unless you have strong private reasons, I suggest you buy a new one for your next race.
The point is it's not worthy to recover this engine after the sleeve broke up, too much for the wallet. New engine is more "best value" compared to the recovery project.
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