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Old 06-30-2005, 01:36 PM   #16
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I think there might be a little more to this story than we are being told. I have NEVER seen an engine look that bad, there is no way that engine was RUN ,put away short term and looks like that,unless maybe it was stored in the PACIFIC. Unfortunately as a .12 it won't even make a good paper weight
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemugen
the lola body was great. i meant to let you know... only problem, it rained all weekend so no race. oh well... but i think it is getting resceduled.
I can tell you those SERPENT LOLA bodies are hard to get item, I just ordered a Parma 235mm lola, and realized that the side of their bodies is kinda CURVE out.........I really really hate that, because you won't see that on SERPENT body, and Serpent body is alittle thicker and stronger...

Sorry about the off topic everyone..........
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:09 PM   #18
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Solara, Put wedges in the side of the body,it will make it much more rigid as well as keeping it off your tires. I actually prefer the parma body as it has a little better front end clearance.
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trashcar
I think there might be a little more to this story than we are being told. I have NEVER seen an engine look that bad, there is no way that engine was RUN ,put away short term and looks like that,unless maybe it was stored in the PACIFIC. Unfortunately as a .12 it won't even make a good paper weight
Exactly. Either this engine sat with leftover fuel for several weeks before the afterrun oil was applied or he grabbed the wrong bottle and poured some kind of oxidant into it.

I also do not see the slightest trace of oil anywhere inside the engine.
Further, the fact that even the aluminum conrod (which does not rust) is covered with that brown stuff suggests that there was either fuel or some acid present for an extended period of time.

I once forgot an to oil an engine after a race. I was running 30% O'Donnel and remembered it a couple of weeks later. The only rust the engine had was two tiny spots on the counter weight of the crank. The rest of the engine internals was covered with the oil from the fuel.

Don't blame this on JP or anybody else but the owner of the engine
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Exactly. Either this engine sat with leftover fuel for several weeks before the afterrun oil was applied or he grabbed the wrong bottle and poured some kind of oxidant into it.

I also do not see the slightest trace of oil anywhere inside the engine.
Further, the fact that even the aluminum conrod (which does not rust) is covered with that brown stuff suggests that there was either fuel or some acid present for an extended period of time.

I once forgot an to oil an engine after a race. I was running 30% O'Donnel and remembered it a couple of weeks later. The only rust the engine had was two tiny spots on the counter weight of the crank. The rest of the engine internals was covered with the oil from the fuel.

Don't blame this on JP or anybody else but the owner of the engine
i wouldnt quite jump to conlcusions about that, i know of about 6 guys that the epoxy came out on JP engines... i was told that JP got a bad batch of epoxy. but his engine does look rusty.
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemugen
i wouldnt quite jump to conlcusions about that, i know of about 6 guys that the epoxy came out on JP engines... i was told that JP got a bad batch of epoxy. but his engine does look rusty.
It's not Epoxy, it's silicone. Epoxy is not resistant to nitromethane and methanol.

And what exactly does this have to do with how that engine looks?
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by joemugen
buy a mega zx12. they are just as fast as a jp but much cheaper!!!
..until they throw the conrod.... (which they will, all of them )
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Old 06-30-2005, 02:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
It's not Epoxy, it's silicone. Epoxy is not resistant to nitromethane and methanol.

And what exactly does this have to do with how that engine looks?
that is why i said "but it does look rusty"
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:09 PM   #24
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your lucky it wasnt the mod version.$400+gone
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
or he grabbed the wrong bottle and poured some kind of oxidant into it.


probably casued by the type of silicone JP uses, some RTV is acetoxy cure and will release acid during curing. but the amount of rust and location did suprised me. i better clean my enignes from now on.
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Old 06-30-2005, 04:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trashcar
I think there might be a little more to this story than we are being told. I have NEVER seen an engine look that bad, there is no way that engine was RUN ,put away short term and looks like that,unless maybe it was stored in the PACIFIC. Unfortunately as a .12 it won't even make a good paper weight
?? i'm not a liar , as far as i can remember i have told you all that i have done to this engine , it was put away for between 2/3 weeks , cant remember exactly how long, and i used after run as soon as i finshed running it , when i found this rust inside i soaked the engine (below the flywheel and bearing ) in petrol (for 1/1 car 's) and this is the outcome , why would i lie ?

i tryed to a presise as i could, and you call me a liar, i'm offended by that ,

you didnt really contribute much to the thread in the way of help either , only to tell me you have never seen an engine that bad , and take the P about the pacific !!

i'm pissed off enough about this engine already , dont need to be told i am lying, when i need some help.

i have been told all i need is new bearings and a good clean with a dremel , not dead yet !!
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:08 PM   #27
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Hey man I believe U there would be no reason for U to lie good luck on getting your motor back up and running If I were U I would do as U said and put the dremel to everything and get new bearings thats what I would tell U to do.
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:09 PM   #28
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Hey man I believe U there would be no reason for U to lie good luck on getting your motor back up and running If I were U I would do as U said and put the dremel to everything and get new bearings thats what I would tell U to do.
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:20 PM   #29
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Did you open up the engine before you ran it? It looks like some of the "rust" has been scraped off of the con rod. Did you do that or was it like that when you opened it up? If it scrapes off like that, it isn't rust, it's build-up. I'm assuming that the engine was used when you bought it and that the previous owner didn't take very good care of it.
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Old 06-30-2005, 07:05 PM   #30
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that is not NORMAL rust from running an engine... rust is usually a few specs at most.... i think somehow water has gotten in there somehow... and not from the atmosphere....

p.s that rust developed from the time you first started the engine to when you tried to restart it 2 weeks later.

Coz there is NO WAY the engine could of started with that amount of rust in there the first time..... and you would of noticed the sandy feeling and it would of sounded like crap even if it did start... sorry to say but i have to say user error....

check your After run oil... it may be something else like METHANOL.......

anyway assuming you havent tried to start it when the engine was rusted, the sleeve and piston should be ok... the crank should be ok, just polish it up... and maybe rod is ok aswell, all you need to change is the bearings.


oh no i see the rust on the piston - piston is gone

Last edited by BigBadJabba; 06-30-2005 at 07:15 PM.
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