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Old 06-29-2005, 06:34 PM   #16
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AFM,

I was there in Jesolo. What a race. I was one of the only Canadian guys there racing with Birel. Peter De Brujin was my tuner.......what a blast those times were...Rotax should make nitro engines!!

Yes many of the principles are exactly the same. In just over a year I have become very comfortable with these engines. They are VERY similar in principle to kart engines of those times. Just that they aren't direct drive....

JR
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Old 06-29-2005, 09:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrabbito
AFM,

I was there in Jesolo. What a race. I was one of the only Canadian guys there racing with Birel. Peter De Brujin was my tuner.......what a blast those times were...Rotax should make nitro engines!!

Yes many of the principles are exactly the same. In just over a year I have become very comfortable with these engines. They are VERY similar in principle to kart engines of those times. Just that they aren't direct drive....

JR
Hey...remember the Pachioni (oficial Tony Kart driver) incident on the last lap of the final with the Hong Kong driver?? I think the poor guy is still hiden somewhere in Italy, jajajajaja.

Wouldn't it be great a Rotax RC engine with NiCasil sleeve???

AFM
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:23 PM   #18
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You mean the swiss hutless driver...that was funny!!!

John
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:29 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by jrabbito
You mean the swiss hutless driver...that was funny!!!

John
Yeah...Pacchioni was on it's way to beeing World Champion with a comfortable lead over the CRG drivers when this guy was trying to enter pits through the exit and wham!!! Pacchioni hits him and bye bye championship.

That was the year in which a lack of entries resulted in the 135cc class being dropped at the World Championships at Jesolo (famous Pista Azurra).
This left two 100cc class titles to be fought for - Formula K and Formula A. The former was won by Denmark's Jan Magnussen and the latter by Danilo Rossi.
Fisichella was knocked off the track on the warming up lap, he rejoined the pack and came home 2nd only to be excluded for having received outside assistance.

AFM
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:37 PM   #20
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OK one more time. There is no such thing as a MIDRANGE needle!
The low speed needle valve consists of two components; the needle (located in the slide) & the seat. The seat is also the spray bar or nozzle. Any adjustment made to this needle valve is made by adjusting the relative distance between the needle and the seat. Which one is moved is not relevant. Some carbs come equiped with a stationary needle & adjustable seat. Some come with a stationary seat and adjustable needle. Some provide adjustment from both. If a carb is supplied with a stationary needle & adjustable seat, does that meen it has a mid-range adjustment & NO low-speed adjustment? No, of course not. You are simply adjusting the low speed needle valve assembly by moving the seat, as opposed to moving the needle.
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Giuseppe
hey guys

Thanks for all the great replies, I think I know more than I ever wanted to know about the fuel mixture in the carb. But unfortunately, none of what you have said has really helped me with my problem.

As the instructions for the motor said, 1- 1.5 turns to work with. So I have a half turn of adjustment to mess around with. How is it going to affect the trucks speed and power. i.e. Too rich? too lean? Too far in or out? I am an experienced racer but no one locally really understands how to use the mid-range needle to tune the engine, or how to get it back to stock?

So far, from the posts, I get that the mid range is just for fine tuning the bottom. But is can also be made to have no affect if you reset the low end after it. Just want to know if it will make a big difference or not much of one and how to get it right.

I don't want another long explaination as to the minute details.

THanks
I'll try to be as brief and to the point as possible. Tune the main needle first, by making high speed passes. Going from a rich condition, making 1/8 turn adjustments until the engine clears & makes good 'song'. Then adjust low-end (from either side). Do this first from idle, making it a bit too rich (loads up in 10 to 20 seconds). Lean the low-end a bit, clear it out & begin checking transition. That is, when you accellerate observe closely what happens as the throttle is advanced through the point that the needle exits the spray bar. What you are after is a smooth transition with no change mixture (rich to lean or vice versa). Do not count turns! If you know how many turns in or out you are at, you don't know how to tune an engine. Just to many variables for turn counting to be relevant (humidity, altitude, temp., fuel, plug, etc.).
After tuning the engine, if more bottom-end power is desired. You should try different clutch set-ups, different exhaust or a change in gearing.
Higher nitro content is another option...
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:36 PM   #22
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Default carb adjustment

hey giuseppe, let me give it a try very short, usually that mid-range adjustment starts off even with the carb body(flat accross) if your motor is running good now and you want to return the midrange back to stock, just turn it and then adjust the idle (air adjustment screw in the opposite dirrection. meaning if you loosen the mid-range half a turn then tighten the idle air adjustment screw a half a turn and visa versa for the other direction. if yoiur motor is not running well then set it back to stock and retune your engine
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:05 AM   #23
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Default that was helpful

Now those last few posts were helpful. I will try to get the engine returned in the next day or two and get back to you guys. I think the problem is that the engine is not at all tuned right.

I haven't really sat down with it for quite some time. Just show up at the trophy race, 'tune' that morning and hope for the best. Spending the whole time messing with it, too rich, too lean, but it never flames.

I'll start from scratch and take all the suggestions into account when re tuning.
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