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Old 06-13-2005, 01:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by mxs
Thanks I am clear now on diff and novamega-serpent relation.

All right I tought all along that SX15 was a small block line. So you know 100% that SX15 3P, EV5 (2607, no such number on novamega site though) is a big block? How can one say if the site or info doesn't specify that. The size of the crank..? If it is indeed big block, I know a guy who has one NIB, so I would get it.

I am starting to build tonight (at least I hope...) and I noticed in the instructions that Serpent recommends OW (serpent oneway lube) made by them, but not supplied with the kit. How important is it that I use their stuff(I would have to order it) opposed to some more available product. If the primary reason is antiwear issue than perhaps I could use some of antiwear grease I have from my NTC3 times, but I would hate to blow a part later because I used wrong lube. What do you think.

Thanks
I think I can certain on some RC thing, and owning at least 3 SX-15, I am 110% sure it is a Big-Block 15 engine......don't worry about what Nova Mega site said, that engine is discontinued....so does NOVA MEGA

Also, there are 2 things from Serpent are very well known in nitro RC...(1) The Serpent cleaning gum, good stuff, (2) the pink Serpent 1-way lube.......a 1-way is about $40....a bottle of the 1-way lube is under $20 I think, but will last you............probably when the time you quit RC, you still have 1/2 bottle left....

Buy them both...that 1 way lube is a MUST HAVE.

I don't know what Anti-wear thing that you are refering, the pink Serpent 1-way grease is kinda like eye drop stuff, liquid like, very thin, not really like THICK GREASE type grease that AE offer....do NOT just add any grease onto the 1 way, only 1 way grease for 1 way
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Old 06-13-2005, 01:57 PM   #32
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Great, I will get it then as I would prefer having the big block opposed to small one.


You sound like a friend of mine who has 710. He said he has almost full bottle of that stuff still and he can share with me till I get my hands on my own. I just spoke to him. I heard about the cleaning gum, but never seen it or used it.

Thanks
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:03 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mxs
Great, I will get it then as I would pretty having big block opposed to small one.

Thanks
It is the size of the enigne block........I think 15 big block is very close to the size of the 21.........I have all 3 engine but I have never compare teh size of 15 and 21....
From what I know....Sx15-EVO4 is the best 15 ever, then the EVO-5...which I don't know much about that engine.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:06 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by mxs
Great, I will get it then as I would pretty having big block opposed to small one.


You sound like a friend of mine who has 710. He said he has almost full bottle of that stuff still and he can share with me till I get my hands on my own. I just spoke to him. I heard about the cleaning gum, but never seen it or used it.

Thanks
Well, I don't run my 835 much....and still trying to get my 1/8th going, and my Impulse Pro GTP.....collecting dust.
1-way does not work well on shaft (NTC3)........so my 1-way lube is kinda, still full bottle after 3 years.
But I use it on the 2-speed (1-way) hub on ALL car that has 1-way bearing, I have read a lot of thread from different car like Mugen, Kyosho, AE....etc, when ppl referring to 1-way bearing lube, most of the ppl refer to this Serpent pink 1-way lube, even they are running chassis other then Serpent.

You use only 1-2 drop (the most) for like 2 weekend run, you can do it every weekend, won't hurt....just clean it really nice before applying the lube.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:09 PM   #35
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Yeah I know it's the size of the block, but sometimes you can read other data on the engine, like crankshaft: 11mm or 13mm etc. so I thought that size of the crankshaft could indicate whether it's a small block or big block. If you don't know the engine and you can't say by just looking at the picture there's no way you would know what block size is it and that was my case.

But then there are people who know, like you, and that's all I need at this point.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:12 PM   #36
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Question for this panel: I have a 835 and an Impact. I have a .21 on the 835 and I use it for drag racing. I was thinking about turning my Impact into a two wheel drive. The reason i want to do this is b/c i was told that a two wheel drive car would be faster in 132ft. I tried this before with a .21 on it and i didn't have any success. Will a ball diff help me go straight? Remmeber i only need to go straight.

Rookie Solar, how is that TZ working out on your Impact? I have one of those engines too on a hpi rs4 and i thought the Impact is just to heavy for that engine for drag racing. Maybe i could use that engine to power my Impact once i convert it? What do you think?
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:58 PM   #37
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kpjr;

For your application I would think that 2WD would work out better since it should have less drive train resistance then 4WD (therefore less loss power delivery). I've never done rc drag racing nor I have seen it. I would even keep the solid axle from 4WD in there, but I don't have any experience doing it.

I am sure the guys who have the car or ran both diff and solid would know better. My opinion is just a sheer theory.
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Old 06-13-2005, 03:01 PM   #38
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Does anybody have an experience with the unmounted donuts? How do you get the old foam from the rim or am I missing something?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:WN:US:1

Thanks
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Old 06-13-2005, 03:43 PM   #39
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RS:

Let me know when you will get officially tired of my questions, but here is another one.

For the SX15 which pipes are good and affordable? Would something like that work? teh reason for RD Logics is simple, my LHS carries it so at least one part would be easy to get.

http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...505&type=store

Is the header opening larger for .15 big block opposed to 0.12?

Thanks
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:26 AM   #40
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Easiest way to tell big from small block besides physical size is bolt mounting pattern,much larger spread for bigblock.
Remove old donuts by soaking wheel in lacquer thinner.To remount you need a tire cone to go over the wheel,paint the inside of tire and wheel with 3M contact adhesive and allow to tackup dip wheel in thinner and slide tire over cone and center on wheel.Allow to dry overnite and true.
RD logic turbo 11 pipe works very well
Don't think a ball diff will give enough traction,car will go straight because you are only driving one wheel,while four wheel drive has more drag if you overdrive the rear the front will keep the car straight at launch thereafter the rear tires will overrun the front oneway minimizing drag.
A bad .21 will be better than any good .15
Stinger opening is larger for .15 vs .12
Crank bearing and ID are diff on big block allowing better induction.
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Old 06-14-2005, 07:14 AM   #41
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Thanks trashcar. Is this the pipe you were referring to?

http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...217&type=store


Sounds like a lot of work to put the unmounted donuts on. I will stick to complete tires and see what my tire wear will be.

Anybody has an idea what shore are the tires which come with the the Serpent 835 kit. It's nowhere in the manual not is there any sticker on them or anything.

Thanks
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Old 06-14-2005, 07:52 AM   #42
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They offer a .15 specific pipe.PM "motorman" and ask him he should be very helpful as he was instrumental in the design.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:24 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpjr
Rookie Solar, how is that TZ working out on your Impact? I have one of those engines too on a hpi rs4 and i thought the Impact is just to heavy for that engine for drag racing. Maybe i could use that engine to power my Impact once i convert it? What do you think?
DRAG racing....? No...not the 18TZ, 18TZ only do sub-40,000 rpm....does not kick up high enough RPM for drag racing.....I just mount the 18TZ on my IMPACT cause getting the 835 orange special motor mount is like trying to import a R34 in USA.........but I think I can run it this SUNDAY and I will let you know, I will expect this 18TZ will be as fast as any big block 15 like JP and RB (nothing less) but probably will drink a little more fuel then big block 15 (cause it is a 3.0cc engine)

Yes, by theory, 2WD should be FASTER then 4WD on simply drag racing, thats why you don't see a lot of 4WD in any real world on-road racing (real drag racing, F1, Indy....all RWD) cause 1000 HP to pin 2 wheels gonna be easier (for the motor) instead of spinning 4 wheels......4WD is good ROAD COURSE cause there are turns, bumps, up and downs....thats why you see them on FIA Rally Racing....

When you use 2WD for drag race....I think using the SPOOL (solid at rear) will give the BEST traction for drag racing cause BOTH WHEEL will have 50/50 power from the engine, with equal balance of power.........DIFF only works when the car is TURNING.....for drag racing....use very soft rear tires...30 shores should work.

Also...your gearing....20 with 46 probably the TALLEST 2nd gear you can get for Impact, 1st gear, may be 16/48 will work....I am assume you are running some 21 engine....
But if you want something CRAZY, I think, the HPI R40 centax clutch should WORK with IMpact (they are very similar), but R40 has some TALL gear like 24T.........that is insane gear ONLy if you have the ENGINE power to push that, and Ithink your 21 should be able to pull that, but you have to get the whole centax from R40........I think they are less then $60 retail.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:38 AM   #44
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Thanks Rookie Solara for your input. It sould be very helpful. What should my set-up be as far as shocks, springs, oil, rear & front toe?
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:54 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpjr
Thanks Rookie Solara for your input. It sould be very helpful. What should my set-up be as far as shocks, springs, oil, rear & front toe?
To be honest, I have never setup my car to 2WD, never do drag racing, nor planning to do any of those, so I have no SETUP for you.........but I do not think shock SET UP are going to change you by a lot.....I would think the stock setup, may be a little HARDER springs will give you a consistnat control for straight line speed..........
Trashcar did have a lot more helpfull infomration.............may be he can share some input.

About reuse old rims and new donuts, unless there are NO 235mm on the market anymore.........I would not go thru all those work to save $10 or so...(1 pair of donuts with shipping on ebay is still $10, $11US...) Ashford is $14, 17 with new rims and glued, trued....
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