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Old 06-24-2013, 07:49 AM   #1
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Default Clutch bell binding

I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
You are adding 5mm of shims under the inner bearing???... Shouldnt
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:06 AM   #3
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You don't want to eliminate ALL play. It will need a small amount to keep it from binding.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylorm View Post
You are adding 5mm of shims under the inner bearing???... Shouldnt
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
e.g. remove all shims, assemble clutch w/o shims. take a endplay reading. Reading maybe 1.75mm. Get shims that would add up to 1.25mm. and install to the main shaft bearing. your endplay will be .5mmmm. Remember end play max is 1.0mm. Endplay could be set at .025mm possible.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:39 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
e.g. remove all shims, assemble clutch w/o shims. take a endplay reading. Reading maybe 1.75mm. Get shims that would add up to 1.25mm. and install to the main shaft bearing. your endplay will be .5mmmm. Remember end play max is 1.0mm. Endplay could be set at .025mm possible.
There is nothing wrong with TS his methode, it is a normal way to set the gap. I do not think you have to confuse him with a different methode.

TS only need to set the rirght amount of shims under the inner bearing so it will leave a little bit of play.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
The crankshaft tip is too short.

Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .

Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.

The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
The crankshaft tip is too short.

Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .

Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.

The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
That would be the case if he couldn't get the .5mm gap but he says he does have it set to .5 gap so this is not the problem. The problem comes when he tries to remove the endplay.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:29 PM   #8
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Joe, if you're going to blue diamond Sunday for the sweep challenge I d be happy to have a look at your clutch. Usually it s good to use the cone that came with the engine. If you don t have it I have a few cones laying for novarossi 12
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Taylorm View Post
You are adding 5mm of shims under the inner bearing???... Shouldnt
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
No not adding 5mm it seems like I'd have to to get it to spin free
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
The crankshaft tip is too short.

Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .

Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.

The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
Exactly what I wanted to hear, I bought the car already assembled and didn't start taking it apart yet to rebuild it since I wanted to run it first. Guess I'm gonna rebuild it first before I run it
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:07 PM   #11
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The problem I'm having is when I set the .5mm gap the bell is pressed up against the shoe and there is no end play. Sorry guys I explained it wrong in my first post.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #12
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Joe, if you're going to blue diamond Sunday for the sweep challenge I d be happy to have a look at your clutch. Usually it s good to use the cone that came with the engine. If you don t have it I have a few cones laying for novarossi 12
My radio is still out being repaired but hopefully will be back before the weekend. I'm planning on going if my radios back by then
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:09 PM   #13
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Joe..

With the bottom bearing removed assemble clutch and take the gap betwen the thrust bearing retainer and the bell. It should be around .5mm, shim thrustbearing retainer until it is .5mm. If you cant achieve this, the collette is too long. Otherwise, disassemble and insert the bottom bearing, re-assemble. If the clutch binds then the bottom bearing is too large or the clutch spring retainer is protruding onto the bearing.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:05 PM   #14
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The problem I'm having is when I set the .5mm gap the bell is pressed up against the shoe and there is no end play. Sorry guys I explained it wrong in my first post.
Then you do not have a .5mm gap. Gap is the distance between the shoe and the clutch bell. If it's binding on the shoe with no shims them you're gap is zero and you need either a different collet or a longer thrust bearing retainer such as the mugen one mentioned earlier.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #15
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Check thrust brg, inner and outer race has different diameters.
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