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Old 06-24-2013, 08:43 PM   #16
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Then you do not have a .5mm gap. Gap is the distance between the shoe and the clutch bell. If it's binding on the shoe with no shims them you're gap is zero and you need either a different collet or a longer thrust bearing retainer such as the mugen one mentioned earlier.
With no bearings, just thrust bearing, I put,the bell,on and push. Then. Measure the distance from the bushing to the top of the bell with a caliper. After that I zero out the caliper and pull the bell and measure from bushing to top of the bell, I get a .7 measurement which is my gap. I add a .2 shim before I put the thrust bearing then assemble which will give me a .5 gap. With the .5 gap I should have some end play and have to shim under the big bearing closest to the spring nut, but there is absolutely no end play and the bell will not spin at all. My guess is the crankshaft is too short.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:19 PM   #17
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Check thrust brg, inner and outer race has different diameters.
.even if installed wrong that wont change his measurement...
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:44 PM   #18
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.even if installed wrong that wont change his measurement...
Sure it doesn't change the endplay, but it could be rubbing the ID of the clutchbell causing a bind. Still check your thrust brg. They have a difference in OD. Excessive endplay(w/o shims) with inner brg & thust brg and it still binds. its the races of thrust brg. switch them around. they do have a difference in OD. I believe the manual tell you that.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:46 PM   #19
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check at your track if someone has the hudy clutch tool for this car. it really makes building the clutch so so so sos soSOOOOO much less fiddly. i can never ever get a repeatable reading from the clutch gap using a micrometer.
once you have that set though the play is just a matter of trial and error finding the right combination of shims to get the play to the most minimal, with there being a tiniest little tick.

these guys know what they talking about so i dont have anything really productive to add. but i will plug that tool. i got mine used off the previous owner and even at the $25 i paid for it, it was a GREAT investment.
Im kinda anti hudy cause i dont want my tools to cost m,ore than my racing stuff lol. I guess im coming around.. sorta like when i opened up to festool.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:18 AM   #20
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Sure it doesn't change the endplay, but it could be rubbing the ID of the clutchbell causing a bind. Still check your thrust brg. They have a difference in OD. Excessive endplay(w/o shims) with inner brg & thust brg and it still binds. its the races of thrust brg. switch them around. they do have a difference in OD. I believe the manual tell you that.
I checked everything but will check thrust bearing again thanks
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:19 AM   #21
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check at your track if someone has the hudy clutch tool for this car. it really makes building the clutch so so so sos soSOOOOO much less fiddly. i can never ever get a repeatable reading from the clutch gap using a micrometer.
once you have that set though the play is just a matter of trial and error finding the right combination of shims to get the play to the most minimal, with there being a tiniest little tick.

these guys know what they talking about so i dont have anything really productive to add. but i will plug that tool. i got mine used off the previous owner and even at the $25 i paid for it, it was a GREAT investment.
Im kinda anti hudy cause i dont want my tools to cost m,ore than my racing stuff lol. I guess im coming around.. sorta like when i opened up to festool.
I have a clutch tool, just like to use my caliper for some reason
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:24 AM   #22
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check at your track if someone has the hudy clutch tool for this car. it really makes building the clutch so so so sos soSOOOOO much less fiddly. i can never ever get a repeatable reading from the clutch gap using a micrometer.
once you have that set though the play is just a matter of trial and error finding the right combination of shims to get the play to the most minimal, with there being a tiniest little tick.

these guys know what they talking about so i dont have anything really productive to add. but i will plug that tool. i got mine used off the previous owner and even at the $25 i paid for it, it was a GREAT investment.
Im kinda anti hudy cause i dont want my tools to cost m,ore than my racing stuff lol. I guess im coming around.. sorta like when i opened up to festool.
Yes all suggestions are always tried and what works best and easiest is how I usually do things, it's just kind of hard to explain my problem and get an answer without actually seeing what's going on but every and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Posting my proble here helps cause there's some things I might've overlooked and you guys remind me
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:44 AM   #23
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Yes all suggestions are always tried and what works best and easiest is how I usually do things, it's just kind of hard to explain my problem and get an answer without actually seeing what's going on but every and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Posting my proble here helps cause there's some things I might've overlooked and you guys remind me
Joe if your clutch shoe is heavily worn it will hinder your gap specially when measuring from the thrust bearing retainer. Visually if the bevel on the clutch shoe nears or touches the flywheel pins, the shoe is done. With a worn shoe, when you add the bottom bearing, then it all goes pear shaped and everything moves up the crank and your thrust bearing, shims and clutch bearings tighten and bind. If the shoe is new, then it's vey likely it's the collette length as mentioned earlier as it will shorten the available crank length. Alternately, if you buy a longer thrust bearing retainer you can lengthen the crank/clutch system.

There's a possibility your collete is not hard against the engines front bearing, or crank isnt seated in engine.
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:57 PM   #24
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Something to look at on photo. engine shaft you should have 9-10mm. anything more #3 could be in contact with clutch bell. Turn #3 in more 11mm or more, see if bind clears up. If not, adjust by the hole of clutchbell. That's what the hole there for. Check the photo.
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Clutch bell binding-centax-017.jpg  
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:19 AM   #25
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Something to look at on photo. engine shaft you should have 9-10mm. anything more #3 could be in contact with clutch bell. Turn #3 in more 11mm or more, see if bind clears up. If not, adjust by the hole of clutchbell. That's what the hole there for. Check the photo.
I'm guessing a few measurements and looking at hudy drawings.

14.2mm - 9.2mm crank end to clutch nut + 5mm? ( thrust bearing retainer / thrustbearing collar / Clutch Bell Bushing )

4mm bottom bearing
2.5mm top bearing
4mm Thrust bearing
3mm bell bearing spacing

So that leaves .6mm, if crank to clutch nut is less than 8.6mm, it's going to bind without any shims
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:29 AM   #26
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I'm guessing a few measurements and looking at hudy drawings.

14.2mm - 9.2mm crank end to clutch nut + 5mm? ( thrust bearing retainer / thrustbearing collar / Clutch Bell Bushing )

4mm bottom bearing
2.5mm top bearing
4mm Thrust bearing
3mm bell bearing spacing

So that leaves .6mm, if crank to clutch nut is less than 8.6mm, it's going to bind without any shims
Endplay is what it maybe. The photo I posted is only the starting point of where to start. He may even adjust it in somemore depending on the time he wants the clutch to engage. Posted the photo to show what could be binding the clutch bell, #3 adjusting nut, it could be out too far, causing the bind.
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