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Old 06-11-2005, 10:13 PM   #31
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Hmm... i finally got the screw out, but cos its 2 speed the inner 2nd higher gear gets blocked by the outer lower spur gear, hence the whole thing cant come out... .... does this mean i have to dismentle the WHOLE engine everytime??
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Old 06-12-2005, 06:58 AM   #32
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remove both the spur gear of your 2 speed, from there you can start removing the clutch bell. or it will be more easy if you remove the engine. Dont put WD40 in your clutch, i think when they say lube your clutch they mean the bearings..but not the clutch shoe..
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Old 06-13-2005, 04:33 AM   #33
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hmm.. looks like its not pratical to do lube that part often...
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Old 06-17-2005, 07:17 AM   #34
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Default Running in

I just run my SIII in using 16% nitro.....My head did not turn purple and I found I now run my needle 1.5 turns out. Still heaps of smoke comes from the exhaust. I am changing to 20% coolpower fuel to give it a run.

I copied this from another thread, when I first run the car
Just built my new SIII....OH why have I been poring money into my SII to try and match this performance. With just running in the engine (very light on throttle) I managed to beet my average lap time by 1.5 seconds at my local track.

Compared to my SII with Nova cx12p the stock SIII is absolutely great...Easier to drive, great turn in on corners with a faster lap time. Looking at the difference the SIII puts the power down sooo much better than my SII, foams will last 100% longer. My SII was heavy (had lots of 3racing bits hanging off it). I now realise what a mess you can make of a car with stupid upgrades.

My SII had 4mm chassis, front blade sways, rear sway, front one-way, carbon top plate (battery & receiver under side of plate), v-one-r 3-racing rear suspension, v-one-R shocks, alum pulleys etc etc.....

Not sure about the SIII spool diff...(basically direct drive of front wheels, no diff). The only thing I would buy is anything that would lighten my ride significantly and maybe later a sway bar, however want to try and squeeze what I can out of the stock setup.

In hindsight I stuffed my SII by adding weight with the 3-racing stuff and shocks too stiff...Although it did look great

Sell your SII and buy the SIII

cheers
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Old 06-17-2005, 09:18 AM   #35
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Hey Bad Inferno, welcome to the club u are the 2nd one i know who has this car now...

Well, the head does noticeably turn purple... i run 25%.. is that why? Hoping to get a temp gun next week to see if its really overheating... quite scared now after hearing yours dont...

currently STILL waiting for parts to build a front diff tho... the front spools crappy to me...

whats the weight of your car now? mines between 1.8-1.9kg
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Old 06-17-2005, 06:47 PM   #36
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Default Hot Head !

How did you run the engine in ?....I ended up idling 2 tanks, idling with slightly different speeds another 2 tanks, then I have probably only done another 3 tanks smoothly around the track.

The front diff (if you could call it that) seems to work OK. Looking at a fixed plastic shaft for a diff does sound crappy however the car handles better than my fully hopped SII which I spent mega $ on. I am no expert however the turn-in and acceleration out of the corners seem great. I will probably try a front one-way (as I have one) and see if it improves the performance (and make sure I can brake without doing a 180).

..the only thing I have done is installed my Rossi pipe and put 4 spider gears in the rear diff. I filled the rear diff with 7000wt oil and I have noticed it has been leaking. I am sure I seated the o-ring correctly before assembling.

Got my SIII from hongkong US285+40freight

I'll post some pics tomorrow
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Old 06-17-2005, 08:32 PM   #37
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Default Chaya....Chassis 3 or 4 mm

Hi Chaya,

The stock chassis is 3mm however the side edges have been folded up 30 degrees. This would give it great strength.
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Old 06-18-2005, 10:35 AM   #38
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haha, i ran it in 5 tanks idling.....

anyway, kyosho calls the fixed front a fixed spool.... not a diff.
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Old 06-18-2005, 08:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
haha, i ran it in 5 tanks idling.....

anyway, kyosho calls the fixed front a fixed spool.... not a diff.
beark them in slow and they WILL be slow. try this, 1st tank real rich and full throttle engine will sound like a four stroke and will run only at full throttle temp at 200 next three tanks lean so car will idles and very speed of motor with short full speed runs temp around 210 to 230 with good smoke, after thrid tank, tune for race.
if you run over rich and DO NOT get the motor up to temp, you WILL wear out the piston and sleave faster.
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Old 06-18-2005, 09:31 PM   #40
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OOo.. really?? Ok will take note of that for my next engine... haha
This was my first, had trouble starting it in the first place..

Anyway Bad Inferno, do u notice these spare left over parts? any idea what they are used for? could only make out a few parts... any idea what the rest are?
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Kyosho V-ONE S III-dvc00202.jpg  
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:12 AM   #41
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I do! I have had a Kyosho V-One-S III for about a month and a half now and think that its the best car around. It handles great with the front Blade type Sway Bar and the rear sway bar. The car was so easy to tune to the track and basically one set-up works for most tracks (havent had to change it yet).

The parts that are left over are;
Transponder holder: Slides over the two front body posts and when you race you put the transponder (Times your laps) up through the middle hole.

Servo saver: this is a spare for the one that goes in the car originally. You can choose froma nine or ten. I put the Nine in straight away as you get more steering throw from doing this. The ten is for less.

For the rest of the parts you dont use. Some are from the FW's.

For the engine heatsink going purple that is completely fine. Mine do the exact same thing. They made it do this to show you when the engine gets up to operating temperature. So when you see the engine heatsink go purple you know you can start tuning.

For running in i idled 4 tanks of Cool Power 20% through it. I have tried the flat out one aswell but i found that the idled motor was alot faster.

If you need engine parts i buy mine from www.rcsquare.com they are great there and have cheap prices.

If you guys want to know any tricks or pics or anything else just yell out. I am happy to help people out with these sorts of things.

BS
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:44 AM   #42
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Red face

Hello Kyosho Racer....I live close to SERCCC and only get 1 hr a week for a run around the track.

What are your thoughts one the following:

Exhaust Manifold & Pipe:
I fitted my Nova Rossi tuned pipe...found I had to cut-off about .5 - .75" of manifold pipe so my Nova pipe would fit without hitting the front wheel. The stock exhaust was very short. Have you changed your pipe ? I also filed the entry to the exhaust manifold (where it fits onto the engine) as the slot was very small and seemed as it would limit the exhaust exiting the engine.
I also found the pipe mounting was crap...so I fitted a steel holder for the wire...see pic
Have you changed the stock pipe. ?

Rear Diff:
I fitted an additional two internal gears and filed it with 7000wt oil. My diff leaks so I will have to take it out and see if I can re-fit it. Maybe I didn't do the screws up tight enough, scared of stipping the threads. I know I seated the Oring correctly.
What have you done with your rear diff ?

Front diff:
Why does this spool style diff seem to work...
Do you run the front spool ?

Shocks:
I used the standard shock oil (I have no clue what wt it is) All I know is this car handles sooo much better than my SII I am hesitant to change it.
ANy idea's on what wt I should/could try for the dandy track or leave it alone?

Engine:
I also run coolpower 20%...I found it easy to richen it up then just wind it in until the car accelerates and changes gears OK. Have not gone leaner past this point. Found the engine was running at 250 DegF last weekend. Did not notice the head purple at this temp.

Low End needle :
What about the low end needle.....I have left this stock position and if I squeeze off the fuel line it idles for the 3-4 seconds then cuts out. ANy improvement benifits if I start playing with the low end. ?

Idle speed:
Noticed that the idle was high even when the carby was all but closed.

I'll keep my questions short this time !!!!
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Kyosho V-ONE S III-img_0012.jpg   Kyosho V-ONE S III-img_0022.jpg  
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:38 AM   #43
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How you going BadInferno? I think i might know you? I am Ben Sterling. I race at dandy all the time. How about you?

Have you changed the stock pipe. ?
Yes. I changed the stock pipe before i even ran the car in. I swapped it for a Novarossi pupe aswell but a very short and fat one. I have tried a few pipes and found that the shorter and fatter the pipe the better Accelleration and top speed it had. I too filed the exhaust port on the manifold and cut it down aswell to make it clear the exhaust gases quicker and more evenly.

What have you done with your rear diff ?
I have done the same with the rear. I use the four spider gears in the diff as this gives it more drag and consistency. I use 5000wt in the rear diff on mine.

Why does this spool style diff seem to work...
I think the spool works very well. There is one thing though. I tried the diff with 50000wt in it and the car changed to be a bit more technical to drive but my laps were right on the pace. So really either way they are both great.

Shocks...
I am running the kit shocks with 40 or 50wt depending on how i fell and how stable i want it.

With the tuning side of things, the head goes purple pretty quickly on my engine as i rarely have to change the tune. I have heaps of blue smoke coming form my car and yet it still pulls some horse power. I think its great how they do that because you could be on the rich side and save your engine and yet you can still be quick. I sometimes do the pinch method but i find that with this engine and with that trick it seems too rich. The idle on the engine also you cannot beat. I had the carby pretty much well closed and it just seemed to keep just sitting there idling beautifully.

Where you have positioned your exhaust is a good idea, but i got rid of the front pully guard straight away and where the screw goes in for that i got a SII exhaust mount and put a long grub screw through and it made it perfect. But your way looks like it works great. I also but a fifth body mount on the middle of the top plate where it says kyosho. It screws on straight over that.

Hope this helps.

Ben Sterling
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:21 AM   #44
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Default SIII steering

Ben,
Thanks for the reply...I have yet to race, got two boys and am trying to get my 8 YO into this hobby, at least he can get around the track without crashing. I will be very sad when serccc has to close up, as I am only 10 minutes away. Although I have had onroad for 12 months I am still yet to crack the 20 second lap....so that tells you how good I race Although with my new SIII I am in consistantly in the 20.x range)

What about steering....I once let a guy drive my car old SII and he commented that I had too much steering...since then I have my radio at a 70% steering rate and various exponent values. I find on some of the sharper turns (the one just before the straight) I struggle to get around this tightly.
I have also played with expo on the steering which sounded good when I bought the radio however found I was more predictable with very little expo on the steering.
What steering rate do you use ? Should I perservere with the expo, I think its a matter of getting used to a setting and learn to drive with it.

Sway bars
I have a front blade sway bar from my SII however did not think I should fit this until I get a rear one first. I notice www.rcmart.com only have the 1.8 & 2.0mm rear sway bar and the SIII manual recommended softer ones.
what size rear bar do you use ?


cheers
Rob
As my name suggests I also have a Kyosho Inferno K3....my first Nitro and a tamia TA04 with Brushless motor.
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:50 PM   #45
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What about steering....
With the steering on my SII when i had it i never really played with it. On the SIII i only had to change it so that i would get full steering throw. If you find that your car is not turning the corners properly then you should dial your expo up a little bit more. Also you might not be taking the lines properly (but that takes time)

Sway bars
With the sway bars i ran the front blade bar when i didnt have the rear sway bars but it did need the rear ones. I run the 2mm bar on the back. I tried the really thin one but it did nothing to the handling. Sway bars in my mind really make the car handle very well when set-up properly.

With your lap times around dandy dont worry too much. If you practice, practice and practice you have more of a chance to do better times. My lap times are in the 17's but i race constantly. I think you might find that if you start racing and start getting a bit of pressure on you i think you might find that you will go fast.

BS
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