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Old 09-03-2013, 09:02 PM   #151
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Default Adapters

Here are pix of the adapters I made to be able to use the current wheel/tire set-up. As I mentioned the non-diff side is not a problem but the diff side requires some thought!

For the design we are discussing now, I think I should be able to make something similar to what you describe. I think I can make it externally adjustable, but time will tell.


Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-img_20130903_215730_009.jpg

Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-img_20130903_215758_376.jpg

Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-img_20130903_215912_310.jpg
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:47 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by aarcobra View Post
Here are pix of the adapters I made to be able to use the current wheel/tire set-up. As I mentioned the non-diff side is not a problem but the diff side requires some thought!

For the design we are discussing now, I think I should be able to make something similar to what you describe. I think I can make it externally adjustable, but time will tell.
These are absolutely beautiful! On the live (non-diff-side) adapter, does the axle go most of the way inside the wheel for strength, or does it stop somewhere within the large-diameter section?
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:54 AM   #153
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Default Brake Disk Hex Drive

I just realized that the clamping wheel hubs used for 1/10 Touring Cars would work nicely as a brake disk hex drive. They fit a 5mm shaft (which is what I will use for the jackshaft), and are very cheap! The only proviso is that the brake disk must have a 12mm hex, or be easily modified to it (fiber disks should be pretty easy to change).

Does anyone have some suggestions for brake disks that might work with a 12mm hex drive?

EDIT: Here are the possibilities I've found so far for the disk:

Duratrax Nitro Evader ST: Tower says the hex is 12mm, but the disk is fiberglass (not a great material!).

Associated RC10GT: Nice fiber disk, but what is the hex size?

Associated Monster GT: Ditto.

Associated GT2: Not a hex, but could be modified.

Duratrax Street Force GP: Looks like fiberglass, hex size unknown.

Traxxas T-Maxx: Hex looks too big, but don't know for sure.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:32 AM   #154
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Default Adapters

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These are absolutely beautiful! On the live (non-diff-side) adapter, does the axle go most of the way inside the wheel for strength, or does it stop somewhere within the large-diameter section?
Thanks. I think they will work but the diff adapter has a thin section that may not take a big hit. I 'm too lazy to make scale drawings so I wing it!

The live side can be any depth, the Associated axles I'm using are very short so it's not inside the wheel. The adapter I showed you is a two piece experiment to cut down on machining. The hole in the wheel is .472" dia. so a 1/2" piece of stock with a collar to hold the wheel is what you see. The parts can be one for more strength by using a larger diameter or as you say longer axle.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:38 AM   #155
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Default Hexes

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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I just realized that the clamping wheel hubs used for 1/10 Touring Cars would work nicely as a brake disk hex drive. They fit a 5mm shaft (which is what I will use for the jackshaft), and are very cheap! The only proviso is that the brake disk must have a 12mm hex, or be easily modified to it (fiber disks should be pretty easy to change).

Does anyone have some suggestions for brake disks that might work with a 12mm hex drive?

EDIT: Here are the possibilities I've found so far for the disk:

Duratrax Nitro Evader ST: Tower says the hex is 12mm, but the disk is fiberglass (not a great material!).

Associated RC10GT: Nice fiber disk, but what is the hex size?

Associated Monster GT: Ditto.

Associated Brake Disk GT2: Not a hex, but could be modified.

Duratrax Street Force GP: Looks like fiberglass, hex size unknown.

Traxxas T-Maxx: Hex looks too big, but don't know for sure.
Just a caution on the axle hole in the hexes: They are not all straight, one diameter holes. Many of the ones I have are stepped. THey would work but would need to be drilled to a constant diameter.

The hex on the Associated disk I have is ~.437" No sure what vintage!
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:39 AM   #156
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Just a caution on the axle hole in the hexes: They are not all straight, one diameter holes. Many of the ones I have are stepped. THey would work but would need to be drilled to a constant diameter.

The hex on the Associated disk I have is ~.437" No sure what vintage!
Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to source the non-stepped variety.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:29 PM   #157
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.Hey Ned...what about a drum brake?...but not on the clutch bell..put an extra hub on the axle..super simple and cheap...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps05538b4c.jpg
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:36 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by Taylorm View Post
.Hey Ned...what about a drum brake?...but not on the clutch bell..put an extra hub on the axle..super simple and cheap...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps05538b4c.jpg
The drum can't go on the axle if we use a ball diff. That would give one-wheel braking.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:32 AM   #159
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It CAN go on the jackshaft, though.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #160
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It CAN go on the jackshaft, though.
Yup, I think most of us agree that's the best place for it.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:49 AM   #161
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Default Front End Ideas

Does anyone have some ideas or photos to share for the front end? Suggested arms, knuckles, etc?
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:29 AM   #162
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I haven't talked to Ned in a few days, but he had a bean axle that he had fabbed and I believe that he had fabbed the knuckles as well. Pretty basic stuff. We discussed using the pros and cons of using square or round stock. Not sure which direction he preferred. Sorry I couldn't be more specific, Howard. I'm sure Ned will be back online soon.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #163
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Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
I haven't talked to Ned in a few days, but he had a bean axle that he had fabbed and I believe that he had fabbed the knuckles as well. Pretty basic stuff. We discussed using the pros and cons of using square or round stock. Not sure which direction he preferred. Sorry I couldn't be more specific, Howard. I'm sure Ned will be back online soon.
The beam axle looks simple enough, but the weight concerns me. I'm also concerned about kingpin strength, since most beam setups don't support the top of the kingpin, although I suppose that could be included. (I'm currently planning on using 4mm or 3/16" kingpins and axles.)

It would be nice to use existing knuckles (and suspension arms, for that matter), but I haven't found anything that seems suitable. Failing that, I was planning on making knuckles from 3/8" square 6061.
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Last edited by howardcano; 09-11-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:04 AM   #164
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Default front end pictures

Here are a few pictures of the R&A front end for the RC100-200 with kingpin support.
Attached Thumbnails
Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-rc200_1.jpg   Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-rc200front1.jpg   Spec 1/8 Pan Car .21 no frill's racing-rc200front2.jpg  
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #165
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Here are a few pictures of the R&A front end for the RC100-200 with kingpin support.
Thanks for the photos, Scott!

I don't have the capability to machine the whole thing shown, but it should be possible to do something very similar with two long flat pieces separated by spacers.

The method of attaching the steering arms in the second photo is neat, as it is done at a 90 degree orientation away from what I was considering (I'd guess to save hardware).

Do you have any idea why the first photo has the center section of the beam removed? It looks important to have it for impact strength.
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