R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-07-2013, 05:07 PM   #16
Tech Master
 
DS Motorsport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,440
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

First of all build the clutch like described in the manual, so with the advised preload, gap and endplay.

Then try the car on the track, if you feel the car lacks acceleration the clutch engages too soon and you need to tighten it. Start tightening it until you hear it slipping on the track. It's slipping when the engine revs rise fast but the car doesn't accelerate as fast. When it starts to slip loosen the preload nut by a quarter turn and you have a good working clutch.

When you have your preload set accordingly you can try different gap settings and fine tune the preload tension for those gap settings. When you increase the gap you normally need to loosen the preload nut a bit and when you decrease the gap you can tighten the preload nut a bit.

If you're still experiencing issues ask an experienced club member to help you out.

Personally I either run a .45 gap or a .50 gap and adjust the spring tension like described above. This is with a Capricorn clutch.

In the download section of my website you can find a manual on how to build a Capricorn clutch:

http://www.capricornrc.nl/downloads
__________________
P1-RC.com
DS Motorsport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 05:17 PM   #17
Tech Champion
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 6,269
Send a message via ICQ to Roelof
Default

With 1/8 I have heard that even a gap of 0.9 is used....
0.5 is indeed for 1/8 to low, I belive it is even mentioned in the Evolva manual.

Eating shoes has also to do with the shoe itself. Serpent and also Mugen had some difficulties with the yellow shoe when changed from material or manufacturer. We have tryed several PTFE materials and the red seems to work very well

Also the clutch problems with the introduction of the Xray RX8 did give a lot of sight on the problems you can face and the funny thing was that there were several solutions but also could drive people to madness and finally end up with a different engine mount and a Mugen clutch.
__________________
The quality of an answer comes with the quality of the question.
Roelof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 06:02 PM   #18
Tech Elite
 
lil-bump's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: The Cold Great Lakes
Posts: 2,963
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
With 1/8 I have heard that even a gap of 0.9 is used....
0.5 is indeed for 1/8 to low, I belive it is even mentioned in the Evolva manual.

Eating shoes has also to do with the shoe itself. Serpent and also Mugen had some difficulties with the yellow shoe when changed from material or manufacturer. We have tryed several PTFE materials and the red seems to work very well

Also the clutch problems with the introduction of the Xray RX8 did give a lot of sight on the problems you can face and the funny thing was that there were several solutions but also could drive people to madness and finally end up with a different engine mount and a Mugen clutch.
Good info... I'm not sure if things have change in the last few years; but the current Serpent yellow shoe and steel bell is the "CAT'S MEOW". I've seen the front wheels lift off the ground on the 966TE with the Serpent yellow shoe and steel bell when done right. I've been racing 1/10 sedan onroad for about 6-7 years and I'm still learning something every year about a centax clutch.


Pass you soon...
__________________
Elliott Hart
Serpent America
Desoto Racing Team
Chicky fan club member #9
One Eighth Racers of Toledo
lil-bump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 06:19 PM   #19
Tech Elite
 
rcabj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: johor, west malaysia
Posts: 4,682
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thanks for the comments...learn something new everytime
yeap having the perfect clutch setups are subjective i guess. but at least we are well informed b4 choosing which or what to do.

just wonderin of going back to the 'old school' clutch setup where no shims is required behind the inside bearing. In general what are the advantages /disadvantages of such setup. thanks again
__________________
BLacK cRoW RaCiNg TeaM
JBRCC
TEAM ORANGE
RCCUTM
pemandu upahan ;)
rcabj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 08:32 PM   #20
Tech Addict
 
hitcharide1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 651
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to hitcharide1
Default Hm

Quote:
Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
About the wife thing; been there and experienced it
but centax is easy normally. With .5 gap its real difficult. with so smal a gap the only centax i know is the capricorn clutch with the red shoe wich does it good.
And with 8 scale its best i think to have a bigger gap and a harder shoe if you want an soft clutch. because of the power these engines have. They need to really hit it hard. to grab it otherwise you will be polishing shoes and wear through them without real grunt. Just a 10 scale racers opinion though. with some 8 scale experience from 30 years ago when clutches were important to get power. Not like these days with these power beasts wich will tear through anything no matter what.
The black Edam shoe wears pretty well. Most of my experience is from 30 years ago as well (which probably explains all the antique Delta, Thorp, and etc I have sitting around the shop. And I've found that sometimes applying too much power to the track is not such a good thing, especially when the driver is questionable.
hitcharide1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:06 AM   #21
Tech Champion
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 6,269
Send a message via ICQ to Roelof
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj View Post
thanks for the comments...learn something new everytime
yeap having the perfect clutch setups are subjective i guess. but at least we are well informed b4 choosing which or what to do.

just wonderin of going back to the 'old school' clutch setup where no shims is required behind the inside bearing. In general what are the advantages /disadvantages of such setup. thanks again
The old style clutch has gotten a lot of devellopment over the last years with better springs and schoe types like carbon and aluminium, sadly there are no compatable versions for current 1/8 scale cars but only from the Kyosho GT series and for the 1/10 the Kyosho Vone-SR.
Building up such a clutch is foul proof, not only in building but also driveabillity. I have runned the old 5 and 6 shoe type BMT clutch on my Mugen and it works quite well but if you want to have more you do need a Centax style. A Centax is more adjustable to any conditions, driveabillity and driving style.

I have tryed an aluminium shoe but it was no succes:


Although I have seen one for a Kyosho 1/10 clutch
__________________
The quality of an answer comes with the quality of the question.
Roelof is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Disc spring as Centax clutch spring ? Roelof Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 58 01-16-2012 12:58 AM
centax clutch problems with kyosho evovla m3 help kyoshoevolvam3 Nitro On-Road 11 08-13-2010 09:30 AM
Mike Swauger's article on setting up a Centax clutch rmdhawaii Nitro On-Road 118 05-30-2008 02:52 PM
How do you guys set up your centax clutch.. MRX4-R03 Nitro On-Road 18 04-03-2007 12:46 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:58 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net