Thunderbunny

iTrader: (27)

I personally don't build my shocks with rebound. I find it pretty difficult to get equal rebound in my shocks, plus the car feels smoother and more predictable without it. *just my personal opinion*

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

+1, yes I am on this thread for a reason!

cosmokitten

Thanks Paulie!

Can you confirm whether using the Novarossi cone will work with the serpent flywheel? My kit didn't have the cone. Just wondering whether I need to place an order.

Regards,

cosmokitten

Do you guys drill holes on the shock caps to make it easier to achieve no rebound?

If not, was is your preferred method?

Thanks again!

Paulie Bee

iTrader: (2)

You originally asked about shimming behind the cone for the Virtus. I am suggesting to use the stock Novarossi cone that comes with the Virtus motor.

Thunderbunny

iTrader: (27)

Lol! I see you!

Yes, I have a set are drilled and not drilled. I use the drilled set 99% of the time.

cosmokitten

Perfect Thanks again Paulie!

Everything installed quite nice, however I wouldn't mind knowing what everyone's is using for shimming for the clutch gap and for end play. I am striving for 0.5 to 0.6mm clutch gap and approx 0.05 to 0.1mm end play, but depending on the methods that I use for measuring, I get different results, thus I have added 0.5mm in front of the thrust bearing to set proper clutch gap and 0.3mm behind the large bearing to set end play.

Does this sound about right for the vir-tus?

Appreciate!!

cosmokitten

Cool, thanks. I'd better start drilling then!!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yup. Sounds ok to me. Make a few measurements around the end bell without the inner bearing and take an average. Aim for 0.6mm as an initial setting. Don't worry too much about the inner shims just set it so you have a small amount of end float and that the bell doesn't drag on the shoe when pushed towards the shoe.

cosmokitten

I typically drill the holes on the plastic shock cap, but I just noticed that there are pre-tapped holes on the aluminum shock nut. Are these pre-tapped holes meant for keeping the shock cavity at ambient pressure? It would seem to be that doesn't vent the cavity...

Appreciate!!

Thunderbunny

iTrader: (27)

The holes in the aluminum part of the shock cap are there to allow the shock oil to bleed out as you screw it together. You want to drill a small hole in the plastic part of the shock cap only.

Get your hands on one of these. It makes life much easier.
Mugen Clutch Spacing Thickness Gauge

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

977WC!!
about halfway done



There seems to be quite a few differences between this kit and the normal version. I had some issues with the servo saver assembly, no matter what you do it would bind up with the provided hat spacer and you cannot tighten the 4mm flathead with any tension or it binds. the steering post is really short and barely goes into the upper bearing so when you put the provided spacer in it squeezes the bearings together.
The instructions say to use 4 shims behind the front hubs and 1 in front but when you do this the wheels will not lock in to place so I am going to have to play with the shims. Very nice kit assembly is good as is the quality of parts. My only gripe is the damn snap rings, going to have to go buy some snap ring pliers tomorrow!Shakedown run on wednseday.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

You'll love the car. It's awesome!

The heads look a little big on those chassis 4mm screws as the are sitting proud. Those screws should carry on down below the surface of the chassis and into a counterbore as per the stock steel screws. It'll be an issue trying to set up the car without the chassis bottom being totally flat.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I noticed that too which is why i switched to the aluminum screws thinking that maybe the kit screws were not to spec but its the same. When rebuild time comes up I will countersink them deeper on my mill. Its only the ones towards the rear of the chassis, front ones are fine???

cosmokitten

Just weighed my machine.

Ready to race, without body stiffeners and normal weight wheels and body and srg servos, weighing in at 2620g, yikes, heavy!

I an running all alu pulleys. I've seen others on this thread weighing in at approx 2460g. Can light weight wheels and body account for this large difference in weight?

Thanks!