dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

The shocks I have the shock body is not flat at the bottom (I have 4 sets and all are the same). It is hard to see but it isn't flat - unless the shock body was updated recently.

beebone

May be, I saw the sharp edge around the bottom.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

So I've just finished building a new 977 EVO 2 and have put on most of the lightweight options and was curious to know what the actual savings have been and so weighed the stock vs LW parts and thought it would be useful to share it with you guys. Basically with the option parts I fitted it saved a total of 76.7 grams overall.

Stock Screws - 92.3g vs. Alu Screws (Serpent set) - 38.2g
Rear Stock Axles - 11.1g each vs. Alu CVD Axles - 4.4g each
Rear Stock Dogbone - 8.5g each vs. CVD Dogbone - 7.0g each
Front Stock Outdrives - 7.4g each vs. LW Outdrives - 5.3g each
Front Stock Dogbone - 6.8g each vs. Alu Dogbones - 3.6g each
Front Stock Axles - 9.3g each vs. Alu Axles - 3.3g each
Stock Pulleys set - 18.5g vs. low friction pulley set - 17.2g

Some pretty decent weight savings. I'm waiting for the rear LW solid axle and the LW Pulley carriers as well which I will add to the list. The stock weights are:

Rear Solid Axle - 18.9g vs LW Solid Axle 13.8g (thanks Nitro-mech)
2sp Pulley Carrier - 7.5g vs LW carrier 5.3g (thanks Nitro-mech)
19t LW Pulley Carrier - 2.6g (Thanks Nitro-mech)

evox88

Just completed a build on 977 Evo. This is my 1st 1/8 scale onroad car.

When I fit in brand new wheels, on the front hubs, it's really tight! Takes a good amount of force to remove the wheels from the hub.

Do you have to sand down the wheel plastic typically for new wheels?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

It depends which brand of tires you are using. Some are very tight and some not so tight. You can get a reemer to open out the holes a little bit if you need. Personally though I don't really worry about the wheel being tight unless I will be running in a final where I will need to change tires during a pit stop.

evox88

Thought that I share my experience with setting up the Hudy Star Box starter with 1/8 wheel configuration and stopper posts. The box comes with instructions on how to shim the motor and setup the posts for a PERFECT fit for Xray RX8 which works 100% with the 977 evo2.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Thanks. Good info! I'm in the market for a new starter box as my xceed box is on its last legs. This makes the Hudy box a top contender.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Had a chance to put the EVO 2 through its paces this weekend. This is my first attempt at 1/8 nitro and its been at least 10 years since I have run nitro. Got a few questions.

1. I ran the kit setup and the car pushed on corner entry, any recommendations on where I can start to get more corner entry steering. I have the balance weight, should I try that first?
2. The kit settings for the clutch appear to be way off. I can't seem to find the sweet spot. The clutch is to grabby.
3. When I lift off the throttle the car feels like its still accelarting. Is this due to the timing being to high?
4. After breaking in a new motor, what is the correct order to adjust the motor to its final settings. Do you adjust the clutch first or the motor? I know if you make changes to the motor it impacts the clutch due to the RPM change. Just need to know what is the correct/best order.

Thanks in advance. I'm loving the snake and 1/8, just got to learn setting up the car and racing/tuning without help.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Hi! Welcome to the snake pit... it's a great car isn't it!

Putting the balance weight all the way to the back will give you more power off steering as it will transfer more weight onto the front wheels off power and braking. That's an easy way to get more steering. I have also found that Green front springs give me more steering in general. What body are you running?

The kit setting for the clutch works. You'll need to fine tune it of course. Don't get too tight on the gap. You want 0.6-0.7mm. I don't like the red shoe and most people run the yellow shoe (6587N) with the Alu bell. The evo 2 comes with the super hard spring so that's fine. I set it by screwing the adjusting nut all the way down and back it out about 1.25 turns but this is on the yellow shoe and Alu bell. With the red shoe and steel bell start about 1.5 turns out then keep screwing it in until it just starts to slip and back it off 1/8 of a turn. That should be enough.

The car has no off power or neutral braking like an electric powered car would have through the motor so it's easy to think the car is still accelerating as it has very little mechanical drag. If you need to have some drag brake you can wind some on at the brake adjuster. Personally I don't like drag brake but many people run it.

You've got to get the clutch right as trying to setup an engine properly with a bad clutch just will never happen. Get the clutch as close as you can and then tune the engine accordingly. There are a couple of good engine tuning guides on RCTech. Have a look in the Engines Thread at the top of the forum. You'll find the engine tuning guide there.

Hope this helps? Let me know if you have any more questions. I'm only a PM away and always willing to help out where I can.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Wow. Thanks for all if he information. I found the Nitro Tunig Guide on the RCTech. I'll be reading and re-reading all week.

Have you had any experience tuning and racing with no help at the track. What I mean is that I show up by myself. Others are willing to help but they are also concentrating on dialing in there cars as well. Any tips on tuning when you have no help at the track. Again thanks for all the great feedback.

pinoy69racer

iTrader: (184)

that's hard to do especially when you do racing you need help to do the pit, some of the fast guys do the tuning by themselves but they are driving down the drivers stand. If you need help look for me if I'm available or anybody at GLARCC racer they are love to help

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

What Henry said. It is what makes a good club tick. The willingness for all the drivers to muck in and help each other. It's part of the fun and enjoyment of our sport! Don't be afraid of asking for help!

It is tough when you have no help at the track but it's doable. It just means frequent trips up and down from the drivers stand!

rick oxley

when the car is on the setup station how many degrees should the front outside
wheel have at full lock for max steering? someone told me too much lock can
make the front push instead of turning.

thanks rick...

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Personally I set the car up to have maximum steering throw Left and Right equally (EPAs) at 100% dual rate on the transmitter. I also make sure the steering tweek on the transmitter is set so that the steering travels equally left and right. I then adjust the dual rate down at the track depending how I find the car on track.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Whats the performance difference between the different clutches, yellow, brown, black and red? Is it softer equals better/harder engagement?