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Old 07-31-2014, 05:19 PM
  #676  
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We can do whatever we want for the most part but i can also cut one out of lexan too.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:20 PM
  #677  
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made some 977 specific droop balancers today!!
Attached Thumbnails Serpent 977 Viper-image.jpg  
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
made some 977 specific droop balancers today!!
Very cool!
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
made some 977 specific droop balancers today!!
Insane!! Can I get one?
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:22 AM
  #680  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Very cool!
Thanks!

Originally Posted by snuvet75
Insane!! Can I get one?
Well i didnt actually plan on producing them for anyone but i guess i can. i didnt use an engraving tool on this one just a small endmill. The Front and rears are different lengths so it would need to be a set of four i think or i guess you could just go one front and one rear? not sure have to think about it, because the graduations are so small its kind of hard to see (well at least with my old eyes!!) thats why i used white on the inside for contrast.
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:15 AM
  #681  
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what is the droop balancer for. Im confused what you do with it.
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rangulo
what is the droop balancer for. Im confused what you do with it.

Just a fancy way of measuring your droop more accurately . Instead of using blocks and sliding your guage block under the arm using an imaginary point. the tool is dead on with measurements and you can easily get both of them them exactly the same. Mine were off .7mm from right to left using the blocks. Definately not a must have tool but it is nice for adjustments. If you want to make a quick accurate change just pop them on and turn the droop screws in 1mm increments.
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:03 PM
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Sell the design to HUDY or Arrowmax quick before they see this thread buddy!! It's a great idea
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:27 AM
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Did anyone else fitting a Novarossi motor have to cut down one edge of the mounts so it does not hit the center pulley for the back belt?

Just wanted to check it was not a odd thing to do before cutting/grinding a bit off the nova motor I just got to go with the car I just got.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Just a fancy way of measuring your droop more accurately . Instead of using blocks and sliding your guage block under the arm using an imaginary point. the tool is dead on with measurements and you can easily get both of them them exactly the same. Mine were off .7mm from right to left using the blocks. Definately not a must have tool but it is nice for adjustments. If you want to make a quick accurate change just pop them on and turn the droop screws in 1mm increments.
what if your chassis is bent. if there is a twist in the chassis or it bows you will have the same length in reference to each other but the chassis not being square may give you a funny running car. I'm all about new stuff but the droop probably should be set without body mount. By the way the droop should be set by the lowest point on the hub. .7mm is a lot and sounds like a bent pin or broken or bent arm, pivot ball or swaybar! 1/8th cars are pretty solid and in my experience the numbers are easy to get the same as long as everything is square!
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:04 AM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by Bishop
Did anyone else fitting a Novarossi motor have to cut down one edge of the mounts so it does not hit the center pulley for the back belt?

Just wanted to check it was not a odd thing to do before cutting/grinding a bit off the nova motor I just got to go with the car I just got.
Just move the center pulley 1-2 mm to the side. No need to grind anything.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rangulo
what if your chassis is bent. if there is a twist in the chassis or it bows you will have the same length in reference to each other but the chassis not being square may give you a funny running car. I'm all about new stuff but the droop probably should be set without body mount. By the way the droop should be set by the lowest point on the hub. .7mm is a lot and sounds like a bent pin or broken or bent arm, pivot ball or swaybar! 1/8th cars are pretty solid and in my experience the numbers are easy to get the same as long as everything is square!
HUH? the pcs i made replace the shocks so if anything is damaged then the shocks setting will be off anyway and that included chassis balancing. they simply replace the shocks and do not connect to the chassis except for on the shock tower. if you set your droop on a tweaked chassis on the arms it will be worse than if you set it with my balancer because the further you go away from the centerline the worse the tweak will be . Maybe you didnt look at the pic closely, they do not touch the body mount, that wouldnt make any sense?? BTW it doesnt matter where you set the droop as long as its the same point on both sides. .7mm really isnt that much especially considering the tires change in a race from 3-5mm, which in effect changes your droop settings, ever scale your car after a race? If what you say is true then why bother measuring shock lengths? You cant tell me that sliding a piece of metal under a flexible arm and "eyeballing it" is more accurate than a true measurement from center to center. thats like saying a slide rule is more accurate than a pair of Mitutoyo calipers!!
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:31 PM
  #688  
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hi, I have a 977 and broke the plastic end of the Steering Link Turnbuckle. the part number is SER902128, or part number 903231,
Ball-joints frame 12+4+2.

both Amain Hobbies and Desoto Racing the parts are out of stock. is there another brand part that would work? I want to race in 10 days and don't want to wait for the back order if there is another source.

thanks Joel
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:43 PM
  #689  
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theres usually a couple extra ones in the box
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jkviper
hi, I have a 977 and broke the plastic end of the Steering Link Turnbuckle. the part number is SER902128, or part number 903231,
Ball-joints frame 12+4+2.

both Amain Hobbies and Desoto Racing the parts are out of stock. is there another brand part that would work? I want to race in 10 days and don't want to wait for the back order if there is another source.

thanks Joel
966 camber link ball joints work. They are a bit bigger on outer diameter so if u want to put that on inner side of steering link u would have to grind it a bit but it fits well.
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