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Old 04-06-2005, 04:51 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kyle Hazell
Hi Steve,

Yes what i mean by factory spec is to run the car as per the factory intended it to be run, not with 100 million hop parts from other manufactures. Some hop ups are benificial some not, some simply make the car look nice. Our cars were pretty much identical to the Factory Team spec.

Regards

Kyle
Thanks for that Kyle, good to know

Steve
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:55 AM   #32
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Got to agree regarding the hop ups. Early on I tried every hop up on the market. Some actually make the car perform worse. The K tank stops some of the foaming issues when running a hi output engine. The update AE tanks are fine too (update was about 2 years ago) If you have the RTR plus it will have the updated tank. The difference is the old tanks held around 77cc of fuel with out the insert & about 72cc with the insert & the pressure line ran from the top of the tank. The new tanks average 74cc capacity without the insert & the pressure fitting is in the lid. The capacity is only an issue at sanctioned events, but the pressure fitting move solves a lot of engine reliability issues. The carbon side brace can save the pipe being driven through the tank after a side impact & is well woth the investment. The only other hopups I would bother with is the alloy input shaft cups, just make sure you use the standard front shaft as the alloy shaft is crap. Other than that the car in Factory Team spec is fine. I am not sure what the RTR plus needs to get it up to FT specs other than carbon bits. I wouldnt worry too much about the blue engine mounts etc. Threaded shock bodies would be the other upgrade if it doesnt already have them.
I have also tried the BMI chassis V1 & 2 they have their advantages, but when I got Kyles setups they were based on the stock chassis so I went back to that. Since then I have stayed with the stock & all my setups are based with that too. If you want to try one I can hook you up for a lot less than $170.00 US. Another neat trick (thanks again Kyle ) is to block off the standard pressure hole in the pipe & move it further forward, it also helps with the fuel foaming. That one is more relevant when you ditch the pullstart in favour of a bump start engine. Also the K tank wont fit with a pullstart.
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:06 PM   #33
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http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/defa...articleid=1245

There is a review on the NTC3+

Looks like it has the old tank design?

So the shopping list is:

Carbon kit
side brace
Alloy input shaft cups
FT shock kit

Done!

I might start getting close to you guys in races soon
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:16 PM   #34
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for the ntc3 to turn....

this mod will not cost you anything and will make your ntc3 steer.

don't use the servo saver feature of the ackerman.
there is one screw that holds it down. screw that all the way and dremel whatever is exposed so it won't get caught up.

hope this helps you out. i drove a ntc3 for a year and a half and this is the very first thing i did to it.
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:57 PM   #35
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The tank in the pic is the new version

Evlhdts is also on the money, I had forgoten about the crap spring in the steering rack. I changed it for a spring out of a diff & locked it down tight. It hasnt come loose since. In standard trim the rack can get loose causing no steering.
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:58 PM   #36
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Sweet!

Good result team
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Old 04-06-2005, 11:06 PM   #37
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also, and forgive me, IO didn't read the entire post so excuse me if someone has already suggested this.... Try stiffer rear springs and/or shocks.

If you can get the car to rotate, going in, it'll power off better.
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