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Old 04-04-2005, 10:32 PM   #16
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Originally posted by AJC13B
AMG - My best run was 10.3 on slicks

Those compounds were suggested by another racer and they did pretty well
Yep I hear ya, but you will find that being new you may also require a slightly different driving style than more experienced guys. Some more tire grip may help to make the car easier to drive (you were running 40/40 shore?). Also biasing the car with the tires can help, ie 37 front and 40 rear can give you some more steering.

When you say you have to just about stop the car to turn thats a pretty extreme lack of grip which is making me think the tires are the culprit.
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:08 PM   #17
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If its Eastern Creek I`ve had very good results from 37 shore all round (on my RRR)....these offer good wear and excellent turn-in.
I`ve also had good results with 35 shore all round there....I thought wear may have been an issue given the track surface, but during the Sydney Nitro GP the 35`s were good for 3 practice sessions, 6 heats and a 15min final
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Old 04-04-2005, 11:51 PM   #18
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Hi AJC13B,
If the rear is a little twitchy/unstable when you are exiting a turn (on power) this means that you are not transfering enough weight to the rear tires when you are on power.
Generally speaking if you wanted to correct this problem then you could apply the setup changes that I listed in my first post to the rear of the car, (ie: soften rear shocks, add front droop, decrease stiffness of rear swaybar, lower rear ride height, laydown rear shocks)
I hope this helps
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJC13B
AMG - My best run was 10.3 on slicks

Those compounds were suggested by another racer and they did pretty well
10.3?? thats pretty damn quik man! who built the car?
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Old 04-05-2005, 05:45 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

Team RTR - Mazsport
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJC13B
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

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Hey guys,

From experience the NTC3 was pretty awsome around ECreek. Diff/Diff is the best option from memory, 1/2 turn front, 1/4 rear. 37 All round for qual, 37's on the lets and 40's on the right for the final. 1mm split, i think??

As for springs we never used the golds (anywhere), coil spacing is to far apart.


Have a chat to SOC next time you see him. He should have a book full of setups from a goose who ran a NTC3 for a while!!

Regards

Kyle
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:30 AM   #22
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When you say '1/2 a turn front and 1/4 turn rear' what are you talking about? WHat do I set as the baseline and add the 1/2 turn?

Will send Soc a PM, thanks very much!

Well my chassis is tweaked So am picking up the FT hard anodized chassis for about $40USD. Also thinking about getting the whole v2 carbon kit. Thoughts?
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJC13B
When you say '1/2 a turn front and 1/4 turn rear' what are you talking about? WHat do I set as the baseline and add the 1/2 turn?

Will send Soc a PM, thanks very much!

Well my chassis is tweaked So am picking up the FT hard anodized chassis for about $40USD. Also thinking about getting the whole v2 carbon kit. Thoughts?





get them.if u want to get the carbon kit,dont crash
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Old 04-05-2005, 10:03 AM   #24
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The carbon kit is not that weak. I had two really nasty crashes last weekend and my ft ntc3 held up with 0 damage. did throw some settings though.
..... shoulda seen the other guy!
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Old 04-05-2005, 05:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJC13B
When you say '1/2 a turn front and 1/4 turn rear' what are you talking about? WHat do I set as the baseline and add the 1/2 turn?

Well my chassis is tweaked So am picking up the FT hard anodized chassis for about $40USD. Also thinking about getting the whole v2 carbon kit. Thoughts?
The "1/2 turn front etc" are how many turns you have to wind the diff out from the screw being fully wound in.
If youre after a new chassis and money isnt an obstacle, check out the NTC3 chassis` here-
www.bmiracing.com
From what I`ve read, users of these are very pleased with the results
Cheers
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:04 PM   #26
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To set your diffs tighten the adjustment screw all the way in. Then back it out to the desired setting. Be carefull not to go more than 3/4 of a turn out from tight or your diff may work loose & come apart. With the springs I think Kyle meant the copper springs are trash, you can see the coils are different from all the others & they are actually harder than all the other springs in the kit. And yes I do have a book full of set ups, Kyle was kind enough to help me out & hand over all of his R&D on the NTC3. Most of it relates to the V1 rear end, but Kyle also modded a NTC3 to accept the blade rear sway bar at the rear before AE got around to it. So the only real difference in the V1 set ups is the rear roll centre. I have also added my own set ups for the version 2 rear end. I must also say that set up is more than just copying set ups off a sheet. When Kyle first gave me the "bible" I copied a set up to try at Tamworth for the winterchamps last year (pullstart) I ran the car in the first 2 qualifiers & was happy with it doing 40 laps in both races. I then switched to a car I got off Kyle with an identical set up & went out & did 42 laps & then won the A final. On paper the setups were the same but there is a lot of little things that make the car so much better. I have since learnt what some of the little things are it makes a huge difference. If you want any help I would be happy to try & help if I can.
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:50 PM   #27
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AndyT - Thanks for the explanation.

Though overall money isnt an object, $170USD for the BMI chassis is a hell of a stretch

Soc - Once I get the car back together I will come out to Penrith and have a go and maybe take you up on the offer of help
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:15 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by soc123_au
To set your diffs tighten the adjustment screw all the way in. Then back it out to the desired setting. Be carefull not to go more than 3/4 of a turn out from tight or your diff may work loose & come apart. With the springs I think Kyle meant the copper springs are trash, you can see the coils are different from all the others & they are actually harder than all the other springs in the kit. And yes I do have a book full of set ups, Kyle was kind enough to help me out & hand over all of his R&D on the NTC3. Most of it relates to the V1 rear end, but Kyle also modded a NTC3 to accept the blade rear sway bar at the rear before AE got around to it. So the only real difference in the V1 set ups is the rear roll centre. I have also added my own set ups for the version 2 rear end. I must also say that set up is more than just copying set ups off a sheet. When Kyle first gave me the "bible" I copied a set up to try at Tamworth for the winterchamps last year (pullstart) I ran the car in the first 2 qualifiers & was happy with it doing 40 laps in both races. I then switched to a car I got off Kyle with an identical set up & went out & did 42 laps & then won the A final. On paper the setups were the same but there is a lot of little things that make the car so much better. I have since learnt what some of the little things are it makes a huge difference. If you want any help I would be happy to try & help if I can.
Hey Soc great post, pretty much says it all. Sorry for that, yes i did mean the Copper springs. The other thing i did on the diffs was always loctite the adjusting screw in, for the very reason that you mentioned. Apart from that we always ran the car in the factory spec, the only hopup item worth looking at was the K Factory side brace and the K Factory tank.

Regards

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Old 04-06-2005, 02:17 AM   #29
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Hey Kyle

I will be pulling the diffs down tonight to have a look how they work and make sure they are all tight, will make sure when I put them back together a little loctite goes on the adjustment screw.

When you say factory spec, is that standard factory spec or the factory team spec car?

Will look into getting a side brace, alot of people I have seen suggest running one. Whats the benefit of the tank? Lower CG?

Steve
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by AJC13B
Hey Kyle

I will be pulling the diffs down tonight to have a look how they work and make sure they are all tight, will make sure when I put them back together a little loctite goes on the adjustment screw.

When you say factory spec, is that standard factory spec or the factory team spec car?

Will look into getting a side brace, alot of people I have seen suggest running one. Whats the benefit of the tank? Lower CG?

Steve
Hi Steve,

Yes what i mean by factory spec is to run the car as per the factory intended it to be run, not with 100 million hop parts from other manufactures. Some hop ups are benificial some not, some simply make the car look nice. Our cars were pretty much identical to the Factory Team spec.

The side brace was something we used early on as it protected the tank to a certain degree, cant remember why we used the tank, i think there were some issues early on with capacity and also the pressure point from the tank. Later on we ran standard tanks with no problems.

Regards

Kyle
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