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Old 03-22-2005, 10:53 AM   #1
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Default Centax adjustment problem, a little help on this please ...

Hi guys,

I have changed my old centax on my Yokomo GT4W2L a couple of weeks ago and im with this problem ... after a couple of minutes of running the centax tends to tight itself, so the engine revs up A LOT until the clutch engages ..., i dissasembled the whole thing a couple of times, adjusted it again and it run flawless for 1 tank or so and after that i start to hear again high revs prior to clutch angagement ...

I tried a couple of times and it goes again with the problem ... other than that my centax it working fine, but with this problem i can not race or practice !!, the engine tends to get high temperature (its get a point where you can hear the engine revs up to 3/4 of throttle before the clutch engages) ...

Hope to hear some suggestions here, thanks a lot as usual guys !!!

Pat
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:57 AM   #2
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Default Re: Centax adjustment problem, a little help on this please ...

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Tabushi
[B]Hi guys,

I have changed my old centax on my Yokomo GT4W2L a couple of weeks ago and im with this problem ... after a couple of minutes of running the centax tends to tight itself, so the engine revs up A LOT until the clutch engages ..., i dissasembled the whole thing a couple of times, adjusted it again and it run flawless for 1 tank or so and after that i start to hear again high revs prior to clutch angagement ...

hi tabushi just use some locktite on the adjustment nut.
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:05 AM   #3
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http://usuarios.lycos.es/koldolo/emb...e-embrague.htm
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:33 PM   #4
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Loctite it ?, so that way i loose the adjustment mechanism right ??
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:28 AM   #5
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Default centax problems

I warped my clutch bell got bent and it wore down my clutch shoe down to about nothing make sure you clutch bell isn't bent or warped. most likly if it's bent or warped it will turn blue after a while.
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:30 AM   #6
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Default centax problems

My clutch bell got bent and it wore down my clutch shoe to about nothing make sure you clutch bell isn't bent or warped. most likly if it's bent or warped it will turn blue after a while.
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Old 03-24-2005, 08:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tabushi
Loctite it ?, so that way i loose the adjustment mechanism right ??
the threads are tired, by using loctite (blue is stronger) youŽll prevent that the nut tie itself (since the torque of the engine runs opposite), that is why it ties itself. check the bearings also and clean the glaze on the bell so the clutch wonŽt slip.
gool luckl racing.
tip: make sure it dries some hours before racing, to loose that nut use a soldering tip and warm it, that melts the threadlocker.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:44 PM   #8
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Default Centex

You might try a softer spring . What I have found if you set a centex up like it tells you to then its good for about 10 laps then it will loosen up and it's not the screw backing out althowe lock tight is a good idea. Grease the thrust bearing every outing .I set the clutch up to I can bearley feel any play almost none yet it spins freely. And putting lock tight on the screw that holds clutch shouldent effect your adjusting the clutch
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Old 03-24-2005, 05:52 PM   #9
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your flywheel is probably turning on the collet when the car shifts either screwing or unscrewing the spring nut. (because of this you would never think the flywheek was not tight enough) I seen it a zillion times especially on 1/8th scales. the nut that holds the flywheel stays in place but the flywheel and collet turns on the crankshaft when the car shifts. this causes the collar the spring rides at the clutch shoe end to rotate transfering this rotation to unwind or wind (decel slip) the nut. Locktighting the nut is really a bandaid so get this tool. the slots in the tool go over the flywheel pins so you can tighten it properly.

this is a must have tool in your box. and it keeps the plier marks off your flywheels
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Old 03-24-2005, 11:09 PM   #10
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Default Also!

Good advise Motorman ! Be sure to put the coller for the fly wheel on all the way till its seated before you put the flywheel on
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:13 AM   #11
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Thanks guys,

I will be working on my car tomorrow night to prepare it to the first race of the season ... so i NEED the centax to work OK.

Pat
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Old 03-30-2005, 09:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tabushi
Thanks guys,

I will be working on my car tomorrow night to prepare it to the first race of the season ... so i NEED the centax to work OK.

Pat
I have 2 articles for you, they do work very nice on the old CENTAX 1 clutch like the one that you have, take a look.

http://www.ashfordhobby.com/tech04.htm

and

http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html

The 2nd one is more like telling you how does the CENTAX work, it has several pages, you can read thru them all...........
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Old 03-30-2005, 10:04 AM   #13
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So ...

Do i have to locktite the ADJUSTING NUT once its on the position where i desire in relation to the car performance ? ... other than that i dont see other nut loose on the assembly ...

thanks ...

Pat
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Old 03-30-2005, 10:14 AM   #14
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You might also find some use in my articles on myTSN:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publlist.asp?cid=869&ccid=9

Go to the articles dealing with the Centax clutch.
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Old 03-30-2005, 02:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
You might also find some use in my articles on myTSN:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publlist.asp?cid=869&ccid=9

Go to the articles dealing with the Centax clutch.
I am very much enjoy your Veteq 2005 articles, perfect for me the new Veteq owner.....however, I think my Veteq, beside the 1 pieces chassis, are a lot less options then yours.....

Is your Veteq (or your friends Veteq) has a lot of custom made chassis parts...? Cause those pieces does not look like the 01 or even the 02 upgrade kits.....
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