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Old 06-16-2007, 08:54 PM   #8641
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Hey guys I'm back. The move went well and I'm finally in my own apartment. Did I miss anything new for the MTX4? I hear there is a new RB R3 Rody coming out soon, a .12 motor, and wondering how will it stack up to the others on the market in price and power. My mugen hasn't been let out for a bit as there are more things important right now to be payed for, but when the time is right I'll slowly get few more option parts for my ride as well as try a new motor.
ninja is all you need.
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:22 PM   #8642
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ninja is all you need.
I keep asking Qs because I'm use to the bottom end on the Rody tuned V12 and Nova motors. I really won't require a lot of top end, but hows it stack upto the Nova plus 12 sct?
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:01 PM   #8643
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About the T0138-B uprights, how are you guys getting them to work without smacking into the lower arm? I did a search and only came up with the 1mm spacer tip.
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:08 PM   #8644
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Hi guys, just purchased 2x 2nd hand cars in good condition (first major top end car, have been running V1RR for the last 5months), 1x MTX4 and 1x MTX4R picked these up for a very good price in my books, now just fitting my Sirro Evo3 to the MTX4R and have struck a slight hitch, the carby is rubbing against the brake disc (it has the twin vent disc), now what i have done is put 1mm spacers between engine and mount in which created another problem with the fly wheel hitting the plastic chassis brace, have dremelled this and all is good with free movement of the fly wheel, is this an ideal way of over coming this problem or is there a better way, the reason i ask this is that i have been reading through a lot of these post (and there are quite a few to get through) and some say keep a low C of G, with the engine raised 1mm will the have any adverse effect, everything seems fine now with free movement all over, even the throttle arm clears the top deck where it also was rubbing before.
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:27 PM   #8645
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Dose any one know where on-line you can get Mugen jackets?
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Old 06-17-2007, 01:45 AM   #8646
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Hi guys, just purchased 2x 2nd hand cars in good condition (first major top end car, have been running V1RR for the last 5months), 1x MTX4 and 1x MTX4R picked these up for a very good price in my books, now just fitting my Sirro Evo3 to the MTX4R and have struck a slight hitch, the carby is rubbing against the brake disc (it has the twin vent disc), now what i have done is put 1mm spacers between engine and mount in which created another problem with the fly wheel hitting the plastic chassis brace, have dremelled this and all is good with free movement of the fly wheel, is this an ideal way of over coming this problem or is there a better way, the reason i ask this is that i have been reading through a lot of these post (and there are quite a few to get through) and some say keep a low C of G, with the engine raised 1mm will the have any adverse effect, everything seems fine now with free movement all over, even the throttle arm clears the top deck where it also was rubbing before.
Cheer's
dremel the carby down rob were it hits, this is what you have to do. i did it with my sirio as well.
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:30 AM   #8647
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I tried an experiment with my MTX4 at my local track. I used a 4mm kawahara chassis and then went back to the 3mm standard chassis. I actually liked how the 3mm chassis felt compared to the 4mm pretty much everywhere on the track except that I noticed a more significant tendency for understeer in really high speed corners on the track. Anybody else have experience with this or similar?
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:29 AM   #8648
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Thanks Tom, but i think i'll just run with the 1mm spacers for now and see how it goes, don't want to dremel away a perfectly good engine
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:39 AM   #8649
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I tried an experiment with my MTX4 at my local track. I used a 4mm kawahara chassis and then went back to the 3mm standard chassis. I actually liked how the 3mm chassis felt compared to the 4mm pretty much everywhere on the track except that I noticed a more significant tendency for understeer in really high speed corners on the track. Anybody else have experience with this or similar?
i have a 4mm knack chassis which is not milled, so it is substantially stiffer than the kawaharra. i found with the 4mm chassis the car was too twitchy, and slightly too responsive to small steering movements. if you are a smooth driver it would be good i guess, but i tryed it about 4 months ago after a long stint not racing, and i didn't like it. (the meet previous to using the 4mm chassis i used the stock 3mm chassis and went alot better)

i will try the 4mm chassis again probably, but i don't see myself sticking to it.
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:41 AM   #8650
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Thanks Tom, but i think i'll just run with the 1mm spacers for now and see how it goes, don't want to dremel away a perfectly good engine
i think it is more than a mm dude, so you have to dremel. it isn't a big deal, you just have to take of the bottom sharp edge, if you do it right, it comes out fine.
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:41 AM   #8651
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer View Post
I tried an experiment with my MTX4 at my local track. I used a 4mm kawahara chassis and then went back to the 3mm standard chassis. I actually liked how the 3mm chassis felt compared to the 4mm pretty much everywhere on the track except that I noticed a more significant tendency for understeer in really high speed corners on the track. Anybody else have experience with this or similar?
yes this is why i run a 4mm kanak chassis
the 3mm will flex a pit more and be easier to drive but will have like a push feeling.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:43 AM   #8652
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About the T0138-B uprights, how are you guys getting them to work without smacking into the lower arm? I did a search and only came up with the 1mm spacer tip.
Do I have to get the new style front lower arms? When the uprights came out, I dont think the new lower arms were out yet...
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:46 AM   #8653
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Do I have to get the new style front lower arms? When the uprights came out, I dont think the new lower arms were out yet...

what is the diff with the old lower arm and the new one?
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:52 AM   #8654
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heres a pic of the two side by side and the uprights
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:57 AM   #8655
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yeah ive got the new lower arms, but what i am asking is, is there a change in the lower arms geometry? or is the change in the lower arms just the cut out section?

i noticed the new arms have the pin holes cut out in the arm in a upwards angle, (ie kicking it kick up) i didn't notice this with the old arms
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