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Old 06-12-2007, 05:13 AM   #8626
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I'm just mounting my MTX-4R and I think that I saw the same problem with the steering rod/pivotball touching the upright. When I checked the instructions better I saw that I had forgot to put a small 1 mm washer between the pivotball and the upright.

With a washer in place everything is working like a charm again.

/Marcus
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Old 06-12-2007, 09:48 AM   #8627
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I took mine all apart and noticed that on one side it had the old style(mtx3) pivot ball retainer washer. It's not recessed like it is on the MTX4.
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Old 06-12-2007, 01:05 PM   #8628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quietstorm76 View Post
I took mine all apart and noticed that on one side it had the old style(mtx3) pivot ball retainer washer. It's not recessed like it is on the MTX4.
ya its a little different so it dosent move around and sits more snug on the ball
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Old 06-13-2007, 07:41 AM   #8629
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Default Droop

I did my droop today and want to clarify if I did it right as to TomB said in a earlier post.

Currently my droop setting are:
Front: +2
Rear: +4

Does this sound about right. Never played with the droop before.

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Old 06-13-2007, 07:55 PM   #8630
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Hi all.....

I got a question, i like to know what is the effect off adjusting the steering servo saver...the manual instruction said to adjust the spring to 1mm.....what effect do we have if we increase the spring pre-load....as i can see that my front tires is wobbling on a fast right left kink....

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Old 06-13-2007, 09:37 PM   #8631
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Increasing the preload will put more pressure on the servosaver so it doesnt "cam out" as easily. The effect is that it will fix you wheel wobble (if it is from the servosaver) but you must be careful because the servo saver is less effective. If you bang a board hard enough, it can bust your servo.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:43 PM   #8632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
Increasing the preload will put more pressure on the servosaver so it doesnt "cam out" as easily. The effect is that it will fix you wheel wobble (if it is from the servosaver) but you must be careful because the servo saver is less effective. If you bang a board hard enough, it can bust your servo.
thanx mate.....any tips on how to determine how much pre-load to add....any rules off thumb to follow???
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:08 PM   #8633
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Theres not any rules to follow but I just follow the manual. You can tighten it to your liking but run the risk of busting your servo if you're too tight.
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:24 PM   #8634
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I tightened 2mm deep.

My servo is Sanwa ERG VX.
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:47 PM   #8635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I tightened 2mm deep.

My servo is Sanwa ERG VX.
that is what i'm planning to do.....just like the MTX3.....and my servo is VX.....but i have killed a VR servo on my MTX3 previously....
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Old 06-15-2007, 03:06 AM   #8636
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I'm looking for a website for a good amount of setup suggestions. If you have a setup that works feel free to PM me. The track I race on is somewhat a tight track with low/med traction. I'm more interested in what type of diff to use in the front or oil wt. in F/R diffs? People at my track are supposedly running 3K-10kwt. fluid in the rear and 50k-60k in the front? Since I haven't seen many setups with a diff in the f/r I'm curious what others are using.
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:38 AM   #8637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb View Post
I'm looking for a website for a good amount of setup suggestions. If you have a setup that works feel free to PM me. The track I race on is somewhat a tight track with low/med traction. I'm more interested in what type of diff to use in the front or oil wt. in F/R diffs? People at my track are supposedly running 3K-10kwt. fluid in the rear and 50k-60k in the front? Since I haven't seen many setups with a diff in the f/r I'm curious what others are using.
10.000 rear
20.000-30.000 front
but 20.000-30.000 in the rear and a 1way front is better
but if you like better breaking diffs are better.
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:57 AM   #8638
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Default Rolling the car

I have finished the majority of the build, just need to put the motor clutch assembly in. Here's my question:

With the tires on, on a level surface, how far should the car roll it given a gentle push? Or better, should the car roll freely? My car seems 'tight'? but I went back through and nothing is binding that I can see. It's a MTX-4R if that helps. Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:49 PM   #8639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by va_connoisseur View Post
I have finished the majority of the build, just need to put the motor clutch assembly in. Here's my question:

With the tires on, on a level surface, how far should the car roll it given a gentle push? Or better, should the car roll freely? My car seems 'tight'? but I went back through and nothing is binding that I can see. It's a MTX-4R if that helps. Thanks.

Check the brake disc. I found I had mine slightly set wrong and with everything off the car , belts and driveshafts. I was able to pinpoint its perfect rolling point while still keeping the pads close to the disc.
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Old 06-16-2007, 01:30 PM   #8640
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Hey guys I'm back. The move went well and I'm finally in my own apartment. Did I miss anything new for the MTX4? I hear there is a new RB R3 Rody coming out soon, a .12 motor, and wondering how will it stack up to the others on the market in price and power. My mugen hasn't been let out for a bit as there are more things important right now to be payed for, but when the time is right I'll slowly get few more option parts for my ride as well as try a new motor.
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