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Old 06-05-2007, 09:09 PM   #8611
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Ok, got a few questions

1. What is the performance different between all the pulleys.
2. How do you go about replacing the tank and a rear belt (dont wanna more than needed)
3. What are some makeshift things I can use for checking my chassis setup .etc?
4. And what are "Active Speed" foams like?

Thanks,
LogiK
?
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:42 AM   #8612
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this is quite interesting.....as i was thinking off bringing down the internal ratio too.....but your set up now have bring the rear internal ratio to 1.95 from 2.15 and with 25 t pulley even with the same tyre diameters....you still have about roughly 10% more rear wheel drive.....

in any case how does it translate to driving feels???
I'm 2WD maniacs bro

BTW, I look at the overdrive chart. It is my intention to start the final with 0.910 range ( under drive, RWD ) and finish the race with 0.980 remaining ( almost 4WD ).

edit : When using 21T brake pulley, I notice the 1st gear become longer to accelerate, and less sideways skid at full throttle.

Last edited by asw7576; 06-06-2007 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:10 AM   #8613
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Well, I tried installing the diff with no pulley at all......the steering arms still hit the diff housing.
If you mean what I think you do, it's the steering rod inner ends (ballcups) that hit the diff case. Depending on the Ackerman insert you have they could do that a bit more or a bit less, but they did that on my car as well. What I did was cut off some material from the rod ends with a sharp knife, there's still plenty left after that. Take only as much as you need though...
Edit: it also depends on the belt tensioners/eccentrics that go between diff bearings and bulkheads. The looser the belt, the more rear the diff lies and the more it rubs on steering.

Last edited by olev; 06-06-2007 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:40 AM   #8614
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
If you mean what I think you do, it's the steering rod inner ends (ballcups) that hit the diff case. Depending on the Ackerman insert you have they could do that a bit more or a bit less, but they did that on my car as well. What I did was cut off some material from the rod ends with a sharp knife, there's still plenty left after that. Take only as much as you need though...
Edit: it also depends on the belt tensioners/eccentrics that go between diff bearings and bulkheads. The looser the belt, the more rear the diff lies and the more it rubs on steering.
Thats exactly what it does...and I will give it a try.

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:22 AM   #8615
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this goes to the guys with stripping gear sindrome
some mentioned that when replacing the 2 speed housing the problem went away, some still had problems.
just found out that on some aftermarket 2 speed housing, well in my case the k factory one, the bearing is not completely loose, in other words, I took it out from the housing and then it is pefect, i put in on the housing again, the bearing is not like new anymore, so it appears that the housing should be sanded a little bit so theres not too much pressure on the bearing
how does it affect? being to tied the bearing it doesn't work it spins entirely on the shaft causing wear that could at the end will have endplay on the shaft, no matter if you use a new 2 speed housing, the bearing on it won't perform the fix, just applied a tiny amount of threadock on the shaft where the bearing of the two speed housing rests, just to make sure i made a small mark on the inner collar of the 2 speed housing bearing and it now works as it should and won't cause wear on the shaft, beware if you use too mucho threalock you wont be able to take it out the 2 speed housing, a tiny of blue just made the trcik, enough so the bearing acts fine, and you;ll need little effort when pulling it out if you need to adjust or replace the 2 speed shoes or spur,
happy racing!
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:57 PM   #8616
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Does anyone know the different colors of clutch springs for a mugen and how the relate to hardness? (ie gold silver)
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:39 PM   #8617
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Originally Posted by LogiK View Post
?
1) Changing the front side pully will give you different overdrive ratios Their should be a guide in the kits paper work

2 )To change the tank you have to remove the carbon fibre top plate
rear belt you will have to remove the whole rear end is easiest and quickest

3 )set up can be done with a flat board and ruler and some calipers just to make sure everything is even on the car then camber can be set buy tyre wear
But a set up system is a good thing to get

4 ) as for the tyres haven't tried them but have some coming so will let you no what they are like
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:37 PM   #8618
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Does anyone know the different colors of clutch springs for a mugen and how the relate to hardness? (ie gold silver)
silver=hard
gold=super hard

If gold isn't hard enough, JP and Orion make harder springs.
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Old 06-07-2007, 04:17 AM   #8619
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thanks
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Old 06-07-2007, 04:14 PM   #8620
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Originally Posted by JetMD View Post
silver=hard
gold=super hard

If gold isn't hard enough, JP and Orion make harder springs.
gold is hard
silver is super hard
and theres a spring for the mrx thats harder and its like a black color.
the one that comes with the car is super hard.
the mtx2 came with super hard.
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:24 PM   #8621
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That's what I said right? Nope.

If you look at the parts listing it even shows that the one that comes with the kit is Super Hard and the option one is Hard.
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Old 06-08-2007, 02:50 AM   #8622
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Originally Posted by LogiK View Post
4. And what are "Active Speed" foams like?

Thanks,
LogiK
they aren't too bad, but some people have found that the front tyres tend to lift ont he outside edge, and may chunk. it is recommended that you lift up the foam on the edge to see if it is stuck properly and use a bit of glue.

i've used the yellow 1mm offset versions, and have found that the front tyres do sometiems get small chunks of them, not large though. the tyres are very good though and wear at a low rate. on a low grip, to medium grip surface though they might not be as grippy due to the fact that the rims are harder than the grp's or other brands out there.
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:41 AM   #8623
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Does anyone know if there is or was a problem with the steering uprights? I've the worst push I've ever seen. I checked the steering out and found that the outside wheel had very little throw. The knuckle was hitting the pivot ball and stopping. Has anyone else seen this?
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Old 06-12-2007, 04:01 AM   #8624
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Does anyone know if there is or was a problem with the steering uprights? I've the worst push I've ever seen. I checked the steering out and found that the outside wheel had very little throw. The knuckle was hitting the pivot ball and stopping. Has anyone else seen this?
Are you sure your car is MTX4 ?
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Old 06-12-2007, 04:46 AM   #8625
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Yes it's a MTX4. I know they handle well I've driven several. I picked this one up from a friend. It handled well when he had it or I wouldn't have bought it. I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong. With the wheels at full lock, I can push down on the car and the wheels would turn straight. And like I said, the outside wheel is not turning far enough. It doesn't happen when I do the same thing with my MRX4-R. Could I possibly have the wrong steering knuckles?
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