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Old 05-22-2007, 06:18 PM   #8461
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I cant really tell , to tell you the truth. But it does leak oil like its going out of style. Ive got a new boca bearing ceramic on its way.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:22 PM   #8462
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I stand corrected. But I only use the longer screws on the clutch bell side.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:33 PM   #8463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I cant really tell , to tell you the truth. But it does leak oil like its going out of style. Ive got a new boca bearing ceramic on its way.

Hopefully that will fix your problem. The guy I new stripping gears ONLY changed motors (JL RD to OS TZ) and no longer had any problems stripping gears. It was obvious that his crank had excessive play because of the front bearing. His motor was also seaping oil more than normal from the front bearing.
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Last edited by evostyle; 05-22-2007 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:35 PM   #8464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle
Hopefully that will fix your problem. The guy I new stripping gears ONLY changed motors (JL RD to OS TZ) and no longer had any problems stripping gears. It was obvious that his crank had excessive play because of the front bearing. His motor was also seaping more than normal oil from the front bearing.
On a side note do you think this would cause tuning issues. Ive been having troubles with my jlr.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:47 PM   #8465
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there is your prolbem ai, the shaft should not move anything at all,
replace the bearing and when adjusting the mesh, place the piston at middle
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:02 PM   #8466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
there is your prolbem ai, the shaft should not move anything at all,
replace the bearing and when adjusting the mesh, place the piston at middle
What is the significance of placing the piston in the middle when adjusting the gear mesh??
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:54 PM   #8467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
On a side note do you think this would cause tuning issues. Ive been having troubles with my jlr.
Most likely. I'm not sure exactly how it would affect it, however it's probably sucking in air thru the bearing then seaping oil out when it's not running. I'm betting this would cause you to be lean anytime the motor is under heavy load and also have an inconsistent idle.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:33 PM   #8468
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Are you sure JL RD engines have so much play in front bearing ? .... strange ?
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Old 05-23-2007, 12:15 AM   #8469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Are you sure JL RD engines have so much play in front bearing ? .... strange ?

I have 2 Piccos and they both have play in front.Thats not good i think but theyre brand new and have play...
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Old 05-23-2007, 12:32 AM   #8470
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Talking about quality & precision made in taiwan.
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Old 05-23-2007, 12:46 AM   #8471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle
Do not use longer screws in the bottom of the engine mount as these may not tighten all the way down. Longer screws may bottom out on the rear hole. The rear hole is used from the top to hold the motor to the mount. Only use what's listed in the manual.
Why not ? Have you try it ?

I am using SJG3x10 and they fit perfectly. The extra 2mm longer gives me extra security against screws backing off.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=232395
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Old 05-23-2007, 12:53 AM   #8472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdh design
It prevents any drag on the clutch bell when idling, and mostly improves consistancy with the clutch engagement, and dis-engagement. Very clever really.
It also stops too much movement in the pinions on engagment of the clutch.
In our MTX3 we used an old thrust bearing but the 4 does not need as much spacing.
Matt can I hear the experance in setting alignment of 64 pitch 12ths here.
When I set the alignment I remove the 1'st gear spur and set it close but not binding on second.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:20 AM   #8473
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In addition to the comment for the 4 bottom screws that secure the engine on the chassis, be also careful on the 4 screws that secure the 2 engine mounts on the engine. The OWS3 have to be placed. They will also reduce the length of the 2 rear screws in the mounts, so they will not meet the screws coming from the bottom.
I hope this may help you.
I have run 2 races and I hopefully did not have any GS. I built the MTX4WC 100% stock. Then I had to change the gear ratio and I chose the steel pinion gears.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:25 AM   #8474
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Hi again,
I posted the following into the Ninja engines thread some time ago but I did not get any reply. If you have any comment/advise is very much appreciated.

Hello,
I would like to share my finding on the conrod of the engine and have your feedback. When I opened the engine just after the break in to clean it, I noticed a play between the conrod and the piston pin. I assumed that I shouldn't change it since it had only about 1 liter of fuel.
Then during the first race, the engine performed very well. Thanks to my mechanic the engine was working to 105C and it could stay on idle for more than 5 minutes and after that to respond perfectly to full throtle without flaming out.
The performance was equal to all other mod engines in the track or I did not feel the need for more power.
After the race when I opened it again I noticed the same play in the conrod and the pin.
There is no bushing there. I slightly heated it up with the heat gun and when it reached approx 70C the play started dissapearing.
What is your experiences/opinions on that.

Since the engine performed perfectly on the track and the temperature was about 105C, I would like also your opinion for the following:
I used 1 teeth smaller both pinion gears and 1 teeth larger both spurs from the default. I suppose that this is the shortest available gearing for the MTX4. While the other team mateswith the MTX4s using other engines, i.e. JP FX03M used the default pinions and only 1 teeth larger both spurs.
My centax spring was also much tighter than the rest. I was about 1.6 and the other about 1.0. However, the whole package worked perfectly and no signs of wear in the shoe or anywhere else. Any comment?
Thanks in advance
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:23 AM   #8475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Why not ? Have you try it ?

I am using SJG3x10 and they fit perfectly. The extra 2mm longer gives me extra security against screws backing off.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=232395

Locktite gives me the security against screws backing off. I'm not saying that a SJG3x10 won't work, however you may bottom out the rear chassis / mount screw on the rear motor / mount screw. The thickness of the MOTORS case mount may be different from motor to motor, thus allowing the top rear motor mount screw to go deeper into the mugen motor mount. Also not using the lock washer would cause the same situation. This would give the lower rear chassis / mount screw less distance to screw in. The screw would feel tightened down as it stops against the upper screw even though the mount is not tight against the chassis. So if your using anything longer than whats in the manual you may be setting yourself up for a motor that slips under power causing a gear stripping issue.
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