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Old 05-12-2007, 10:13 PM   #8341
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Err. any other options without spending $400+ for a .12 motor?
Yeah, touch bases with Jamie Corrado and see if he can help you get some more bottom end out of your Carlsen. He is a sponsored Carlsen driver, pilots an MTX-4 and won last year's GLC. He also did really well at this year's Winternats.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:26 PM   #8342
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Yeah I am good friends with Jamie and will ask him for more help. If anything I will just stay with this motor and purchase another piston/sleeve/conrod set as I have another block w/ heatsink to have a spare Carlsen TZ. I still forgot I have some clutch work to do so this Sunday will be testing day #3.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:41 PM   #8343
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Hi everyone I just bought a new front upright a 2 degree.So what's the difference with this new upright when it comes to car handling and steering?
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Old 05-13-2007, 02:18 AM   #8344
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Hi everyone I just bought a new front upright a 2 degree.So what's the difference with this new upright when it comes to car handling and steering?
Why don't you drive 5 minutes without the new front upright and drive again with the new upright ?? And tell us the difference ? Can you turn faster ? Feeling more agile ? Lower lap times now ?
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:38 AM   #8345
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Hey, does anyone here use the 25tooth front/side pulley? Under what conditions would that be helpful?
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:17 AM   #8346
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Hey, does anyone here use the 25tooth front/side pulley? Under what conditions would that be helpful?
24T is close to 1:1 ratio, Four Wheel Drive ( 4WD )

25T is close to Rear Wheel Drive ( 2WD ).

Use 25T if you don't shave front tires or you are using very small amount of tire split between front and rear.

You don't have to copy this : In my car, I use 21T brake pulley ( pull from MRX4's brake pulley ), and the rest of pulleys are stock or original setup MTX4. Why I use 21T brake pulley ? Because I want to get 2WD effect and higher top speed for 1st & 2nd gears.
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:32 AM   #8347
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Im kind of a rookie to this onroad stuff, shave the front, you mean with a tire truer? If so, I dont have one of those yet...i just mount the tires up straight out of the box. So would that call for the 25 or 24? All the other pulleys are stock of course.

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:43 PM   #8348
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Yes, shaving tires with tire truer. Tire split means the difference of outside diameter between front vs rear.

I would suggest 25T for without tire shaving situation.

In foam racing, Rear foam tyres are wearing faster rate than front. When rear tire's diameter is smaller than front ( usually you can feel the lousy driving feeling at minutes 20 onwards ) , the middle belt is on strain because the rear tires are dragging ( rotate slightly slower than front ). When these happen, it makes driving feel awfull. A 25T front side pulley help to compensate this.

The proper way to setup your car actually involve shaving front & rear tires, usually 2mm - 3mm split. ( I prefer 3mm split because I feel awfull driving when rear tyres are same diameter like front ).
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:12 PM   #8349
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Ok, a truer on the the "to get" list. I just switched from off to on road and am noticing that for onroad you need alot more support equip. You need special tools to adjust the clutch, take the pinions off, true tires, etc. Not quite like offroad, where a hex set and needle nose will get ya through with flyin colors!

Oh well, learning process I guess.

Thanks though
Derek
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:59 PM   #8350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotickc
Ok, a truer on the the "to get" list. I just switched from off to on road and am noticing that for onroad you need alot more support equip. You need special tools to adjust the clutch, take the pinions off, true tires, etc. Not quite like offroad, where a hex set and needle nose will get ya through with flyin colors!

Oh well, learning process I guess.

Thanks though
Derek
Ha heres my basic list.

1. Tire Truer & Mini File (to round edges)
2. Charger
3. Setup Station (setup board , camber , toe settings)
4. Ride Height Gauge
5. Droop Gauge
6. Hex tools
7. Digital Caliper (many great uses)
8. Mugen Pinion Tool
9. Wheel Hex Tool
10. Glow Plug Hex Tool
11. Temperature Gauge
12. Fuel Bottle
13. Starter Box w/ power panel and glow warmer

Im sure im missing others , but yeah thats just the regular basics.
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:44 PM   #8351
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ASW- How small of a split would you sayt o run the 25T pulley? I use a 2mm split or 2.5mm. I had another great run with the car this sunday. I had another great weekend with the car and found that for the track adding more camber helped out a lot at low, mid, and even high speed turns whether I was on or off power. It's hard to remember though not to drive it like an 8th as thats how I burn through a set or two tires in the day, but on the 8th I'd have a set of tires last 2-3 days of running?
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:21 PM   #8352
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with the 25T you run no split to get 4WD
With the 24T you run 2.5mm to get 4WD
heres the overdrive chart from Mugen
Attached Files
File Type: pdf mtx4-overdriveratio.pdf (11.3 KB, 139 views)
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:48 PM   #8353
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NJ or ASW- How often do you see people using the 25T pulley? Do the rear tires still wear much faster than the fronts? I'd try it for sure, but that will be Sunday. I'd just like to know before hand.
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:28 PM   #8354
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thats all i use they do seem to wear faster so i put softer fronts on to Compensate
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:57 AM   #8355
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Not many people are using 25T in my home track. One of the problem, I feel the 25T pulley is too close to manifold hanger.

In 2007, I change my racing strategy to start with 0.955 - 0.945 underdrive ratio ( RWD ), so later at the end of race ( 30 min or 45 min ) I can end up with 0.999 ratio ( 4WD ). I feel better driving slightly 2WD. I also use 20T brake pulley to soften the punch and increase 1st gear top speed.
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