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Old 04-27-2007, 09:27 PM   #8221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
I am not sure as i have never seen what they look like. All i know is they slide over the axle and fit behind the hex drive. Apparently they are 2 mm thick
There are other tamiya shims with thinner thickness : 0.1mm, 0.2mm, 0.3mm with 5mm inside diameter. Those shims are the one you put behind the alluminium wheel hex, ---> they increase slightly the wheel's track width. if you think necessary.

For 5mm x 1.9mm shims, they are use in Tamiya TRF415 MSX cars. Originally the shims are place between bearings that hold wheel axle / universal CVD.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:11 PM   #8222
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There some plastic spacers that are the same size as the ones you want on the parts trees in the kit dude.
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Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
I am not sure as i have never seen what they look like. All i know is they slide over the axle and fit behind the hex drive. Apparently they are 2 mm thick
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Old 04-28-2007, 04:38 AM   #8223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81
why wont the motor and pipe clear the belt tentionor?
Damn C, did you post this question on every forum??!? It may hit the tensioner a little if you don't push it out. Just line it up where it hits, then push it out some and tighten her down. Should be fine. You might have to twist the manifold a little to push the pipe forward some too. Or, one guy posted on here where he put the spring holder on top of the upper deck. (Look at page 269 of this thread, bottom post) I did that too because it came loose on me once at 301. I had lock-tight on that p.o.s. and it still came loose. I hit the wall at the end of the back-straight head-on at full speed because I tried to turn for the sweeper and it didn't turn because that piece was blocking the wheel. Was the hardest hit i've ever had with an r/c car and the only thing that broke was a small piece of the right front bulk-head. (says a lot for Mugen how friggin strong their cars are) So, I put it up top. It does take some serious bending of the spring to get it right though. You can look at mine this weekend to see if you want to do that or not.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:54 AM   #8224
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Hey just a quick question, I've only ran my MTX-4 at 4 different races and in that time I've managed to destroy 2 clutch bearings? They were both the ones in the middle, about 2 race days on each bearing. I've since acquired some spares but just kinda curious. FYI my clutch is set at .04-.05mm spacing and the spring is at approx. .08mm. Can someone help or is this just inherent to this fine piece of racing equiptment?
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:02 AM   #8225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRacerRuss1
Hey just a quick question, I've only ran my MTX-4 at 4 different races and in that time I've managed to destroy 2 clutch bearings? They were both the ones in the middle, about 2 race days on each bearing. I've since acquired some spares but just kinda curious. FYI my clutch is set at .04-.05mm spacing and the spring is at approx. .08mm. Can someone help or is this just inherent to this fine piece of racing equiptment?

no this shouldn't be happening. check that your clutch bell is not dragging on the shoe (ie it has sufficient clearance. you do this by installing everything minus the front screw assembly that holds the thrust bearing, and spin the bell and make sure it doesn't bind). other than this, i have no idea what else it could be!?
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Old 04-28-2007, 10:38 AM   #8226
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i looked online last night and there is a new belt tentioner out, havent found a pic yet, but i am pretty sure that they fixed this issue. i could rig it and be happy, but for the money spent, i dont want to have to rig a thing. feel me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Damn C, did you post this question on every forum??!? It may hit the tensioner a little if you don't push it out. Just line it up where it hits, then push it out some and tighten her down. Should be fine. You might have to twist the manifold a little to push the pipe forward some too. Or, one guy posted on here where he put the spring holder on top of the upper deck. (Look at page 269 of this thread, bottom post) I did that too because it came loose on me once at 301. I had lock-tight on that p.o.s. and it still came loose. I hit the wall at the end of the back-straight head-on at full speed because I tried to turn for the sweeper and it didn't turn because that piece was blocking the wheel. Was the hardest hit i've ever had with an r/c car and the only thing that broke was a small piece of the right front bulk-head. (says a lot for Mugen how friggin strong their cars are) So, I put it up top. It does take some serious bending of the spring to get it right though. You can look at mine this weekend to see if you want to do that or not.
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Old 04-28-2007, 10:45 AM   #8227
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i just read you post again, im not talking about the pipe hitting the pulley, my header wont clear the belt tentioner where it mounts to the motor. its too close?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Damn C, did you post this question on every forum??!? It may hit the tensioner a little if you don't push it out. Just line it up where it hits, then push it out some and tighten her down. Should be fine. You might have to twist the manifold a little to push the pipe forward some too. Or, one guy posted on here where he put the spring holder on top of the upper deck. (Look at page 269 of this thread, bottom post) I did that too because it came loose on me once at 301. I had lock-tight on that p.o.s. and it still came loose. I hit the wall at the end of the back-straight head-on at full speed because I tried to turn for the sweeper and it didn't turn because that piece was blocking the wheel. Was the hardest hit i've ever had with an r/c car and the only thing that broke was a small piece of the right front bulk-head. (says a lot for Mugen how friggin strong their cars are) So, I put it up top. It does take some serious bending of the spring to get it right though. You can look at mine this weekend to see if you want to do that or not.
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Old 04-28-2007, 04:11 PM   #8228
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Oh, you must have the original tensioner. Mine came with the "new" version so I don't know the difference. I've seen guys talking about it though. I'll take a look at it tomorrow.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:36 PM   #8229
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yea, i hope this is the only difference in the kits. i heard there were some, but didnt have a listing. like i said i can rig it, but i can get the new one by the time i get it running
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:40 PM   #8230
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Default mtx4 versions

this is not a question about the R or worlds model

i have a stock mtx4 that came with a GRP sticker on the box not a Fast Tires one. i am finding out that i have the older style belt tentioner that is getting in the way of my header. are there any other kit differences???

please help
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:48 PM   #8231
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Differences between the older and new tensioner plate are posted here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=7325

Newer MTX-4 kits also come with a 75cc fuel tank (vice the original 77cc).

Also see the "Kit Info" section of my MTX-4 Web site for the parts differences between all 3 versions.
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:57 PM   #8232
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thanks!
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:51 PM   #8233
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TomB-thanks for the input, I'll check tomorrow. Should be able to get a few laps...
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:06 PM   #8234
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Default decisions,decisions, decisions

Hi Guys,
bear with me on this one. I currently own a MTX-3 and it runs fairly well (certainly better than the driver,,,,,,,for sure). I am wondering how much in the way of performance I am giving up in comparsant to the newer MTX-4 or MTX-4R. I am trying to decide if I would consider the purchase of one of the newer cars. I only race twice a month and based on that it would mean I probably will only get out maybe 10 times this summer. Is the car worth it??????
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:32 PM   #8235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurcheck
Hi Guys,
bear with me on this one. I currently own a MTX-3 and it runs fairly well (certainly better than the driver,,,,,,,for sure). I am wondering how much in the way of performance I am giving up in comparsant to the newer MTX-4 or MTX-4R. I am trying to decide if I would consider the purchase of one of the newer cars. I only race twice a month and based on that it would mean I probably will only get out maybe 10 times this summer. Is the car worth it??????
Anytime that you can improve your performance wether it be in a car that gives better perforamce or by getting more driving time, it is worth it.
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