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Old 04-26-2007, 06:29 PM   #8191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC=Realy_Costly
i also had thoughts as to what is a good weight to be at, so if 1790 is too heavy and 1650 is too light what is the sweet spot to be at?
I try to race my car at about 1745-1750.
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:32 PM   #8192
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thanks for the info, ill try get it around that
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:47 PM   #8193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Im using a AAA hump pack. Im thinking on using the space thats left over to fill with weights. As the full size battery will only be 100g , vs 70g for the hump pack.

I also have lw digital servos which I dont think im going to get rid of , ti pillow balls , full ti screw kit , lw aluminum threaded balls , ti turnbuckles.

Im probably going to swap back to the stock threaded balls cause the ones I have dont have the 3.0mm hex on the other side to aid in tightening them up.

The rest im kinda stumped on what to remove. I really dont want to remove anything. But im looking into heavy weights that I can stick in a few places hopefully.

use a 2/3A pack will give you more weight at teh chassis, maybe move some ti. ball end.
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:55 PM   #8194
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If you are going to race in a State or National event with in Australia
The Minimum weight with out fuel is 1725 including transponder
As per AARCMCC Technical specifications
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:01 PM   #8195
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You want to get it the lightest you can. But 1725 is also the weight limit for ROAR Events. Im sure the same elsewhere.

I will try to get my car exactly to that weight. Also I think I found the solution. Tungsten weights. There small and should fit in perfectly.

I would go to the 2/3A flat pack , but thats only 30g and that removes all my space. With the hump pack I can squeeze in possibly another 90grams on top of the 70 , making for 160G of weight at the bottom and middle of the chassis. This should work out well overall and make the car pretty well tuned. I also saw a spot on the car that might be able to use some weight. Im going to see what goes on with some weight checks on a few items. Try to get the balance of weight on the chassis right and then go from there.
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:25 PM   #8196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I will try to get my car exactly to that weight.
Just make sure you take into account the weight of different brand tires, tire wear and body/paint.
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:39 PM   #8197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Im using a AAA hump pack. Im thinking on using the space thats left over to fill with weights. As the full size battery will only be 100g , vs 70g for the hump pack.

I also have lw digital servos which I dont think im going to get rid of , ti pillow balls , full ti screw kit , lw aluminum threaded balls , ti turnbuckles.

Im probably going to swap back to the stock threaded balls cause the ones I have dont have the 3.0mm hex on the other side to aid in tightening them up.

The rest im kinda stumped on what to remove. I really dont want to remove anything. But im looking into heavy weights that I can stick in a few places hopefully.
You probably should have just used the standard flat pack and had more battery time instead of lead weights and a light weight battery with low capacity. Just my opinion.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:27 PM   #8198
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I need a new chassis soon, but Mugen is a bit beyong my price, anyone tried Skyline and 3 racing yet ?
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:27 PM   #8199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
I need a new chassis soon, but Mugen is a bit beyong my price, anyone tried Skyline and 3 racing yet ?
Go the Kawahara
3mm or 4mm
Great Quality great price
I have been using the 3mm for over a year now had some Bad accidents
And is still straight as the day I first installed it.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:56 PM   #8200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chippy
Go the Kawahara
3mm or 4mm
Great Quality great price
I have been using the 3mm for over a year now had some Bad accidents
And is still straight as the day I first installed it.
Isn't kawahara chassis is more expensive than mugen ?

If it cheaper i'm going to buy that.

CB : I'm using 3racing 4mm chassis in my MTX3. ....... so far so good ( going 3 years now ). It has less metal cutting ( light weight opening )...... easier to clean.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:04 AM   #8201
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Mugen Stock chassis: $79.00 / CNC 4MM CHASSIS: $84.99 (Nitro House)

Kawahara K-870 MTX-4 chassis PRO - $48.51 (5800 Yen)
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...p%2fk.870.html
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:38 AM   #8202
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Hey all just wondering if anyone know the part number for the aluminium spacers that go behind the hex drives?
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:25 AM   #8203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Mugen Stock chassis: $79.00 / CNC 4MM CHASSIS: $84.99 (Nitro House)

Kawahara K-870 MTX-4 chassis PRO - $48.51 (5800 Yen)
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...p%2fk.870.html
the link does not tell where to buy at all. it is meaningless if I can't get it regardless of the price
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:27 AM   #8204
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http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/


email them what your after they give you a price
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:30 AM   #8205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
the link does not tell where to buy at all. it is meaningless if I can't get it regardless of the price

Try here http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/e/tuusinhanbai-os.htm
This is where I got mine from and was a bit cheaper than RMD s link price
Hope this helps
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