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Old 04-02-2007, 07:08 AM   #8011
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Originally Posted by Car Breaker
Gear strip story again ? mesh the gear on the tight side and symatrically will keep your gear good.

I am using the same gear from Day 1 through at least 2 gallion of fuel and have 2 Head-to-wall crash and several side crashes by 1/8th scale. my chassis is bent, my gear is worn but none of them stripped. there is no problem with the design nor the need of upgrade part, just properly mesh the gear

agreed
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:18 AM   #8012
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
How tight are your gears? Is there any gap between the gears at all? Can you provide a photo?

Mine are copy paper tight, using the RRR method. That's probably not tight enough.

Copy paper?
I'd say using a cigarette paper is about the ideal thickness between, if you must use paper to set the mesh
Just think of a believable story when your wife finds the papers and thinks you have taken up smoking
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:21 AM   #8013
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Originally Posted by TomB
lol sorry for bringing up the stripping gears issue again guys

I am putting it down to worn out bearings in the 2 speed housing.
my mate had this issue at the worlds, he changed the housing and all was fine.
Good to see that you have found the problem Thomas
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:03 AM   #8014
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When I do my mesh I eyeball it kinda.

If you look real closely and roll it back and forth you can get the two gears very close , but just make sure they dont touch. If you want you can push them in all the way , then back it out , then roll it back and forth too watch how much gap there is and how much the gears can play around. I did this on 2nd gear and then tighten the motor mounts. Then I spin the gears by hand to see how they sound and move. They should move easily. If there kinda tight , loosen motor mount again then move out slightly. Then retighten and check again. That seems to get them as tight as possible. I stopped doing the paper method awhile ago. Its kinda inconsistent and just plain a pain.
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:18 AM   #8015
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
When I do my mesh I eyeball it kinda.

If you look real closely and roll it back and forth you can get the two gears very close , but just make sure they dont touch. If you want you can push them in all the way , then back it out , then roll it back and forth too watch how much gap there is and how much the gears can play around. I did this on 2nd gear and then tighten the motor mounts. Then I spin the gears by hand to see how they sound and move. They should move easily. If there kinda tight , loosen motor mount again then move out slightly. Then retighten and check again. That seems to get them as tight as possible. I stopped doing the paper method awhile ago. Its kinda inconsistent and just plain a pain.

I agree with this method. You have to be sure and set the second gear first, then check the first gear. Do it by amount of "play" and sound. They should have as little play as possible without getting any grinding noise when you spin them by hand. Take your time and be sure both gears are meshed . It's very easy to have the motor on an angle and mess up your mesh on one of the two gears. It's all done by feel and sound.

If you get good at this method you will not strip gears unless there is an outside force like boards or cars (especially those 1/8 maniacs).
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:38 AM   #8016
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Well, I stripped 2nd gear again too. Did fine in my first 5 min. qual. but 2 min. into my 2nd qual. it let go. This time, I didn't have the car airborne a single time and did not hit anything. It just seems to let go for no reason. So, I didn't have alot of time but I replaced the gear, set the mesh super tight and the one thing I didn't do before was adjust the gap between the 2-speed shoes and housing. I found a couple other things that I thought had caused my problem but evidently not. So, I adjusted the gap to I thought .2 but the first time I ran it, it was stuck in 2nd gear. So, I came into the pits and told my pit guy to drop the gap down a little. So he did but the shift point wasn't in the right place but the main was starting and we didn't have time to adjust it again. But, I ran a 15 min. main and no stripped gear. I'm going to pull the 2-speed apart again, get the gap set right, and hopefully I won't have a stripped 2nd gear on my next race day.

And to the guys that are trying to blame the stripping gear problem on the "mechanics", you guys should consider yourselves lucky that you don't have the problem. You are not a better mechanic, you are just lucky. I ran the MTX-3 for 3 years and didn't have a problem like this and I had that car torn down and rebuilt just about once a month.

Or, ok, you are the best r/c mechanic in the world because you haven't had this problem. Maybe mine wouldn't have this problem either if it sat on a shelf.

Too many experienced people have had this problem to blame it on stupidity. It is proven to be a design flaw. Look I still love the car, handles like a dream. But this problem needs to be discussed and fixed so that all of us can enjoy the car for what it does well which is everything else.
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:51 AM   #8017
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I drove my car about 30 minutes so far and the spur looks perfect. Heres what im thinking is a combo of fixes that should proove to help , maybe solve.

1. Set 2nd first , very close
2. 4mm or stiff chassis
3. One piece engine mount (with sato TI engine screws, tighten very tight)
4. Kawahara CF engine brace
5. Make sure throttle isnt trying to move further than mechnical travel of carb and brake.
6. 18/24 pinon gear combo
7. make sure 1st and 2nd pinion are in line with each other (the peaks match the others when looking at it on the car from the side) Like hands on a clock pointing both at 12 o clock.
8. Running tires slightly larger than what your experiencing stripping with
9. Check everything thats mentioned in the forums such as sway bar touching.

Kinda a long list , but its a good measure to prevent it. Im hoping I never strip a gear. Ill keep you guys updated if it happens. If it does ill be sad for sure.

But I did come up with an idea that might just fix the problem all together for everyone. I will let you guys know the details as soon as I work it out.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:26 AM   #8018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Well, I stripped 2nd gear again too. Did fine in my first 5 min. qual. but 2 min. into my 2nd qual. it let go. This time, I didn't have the car airborne a single time and did not hit anything. It just seems to let go for no reason. So, I didn't have alot of time but I replaced the gear, set the mesh super tight and the one thing I didn't do before was adjust the gap between the 2-speed shoes and housing. I found a couple other things that I thought had caused my problem but evidently not. So, I adjusted the gap to I thought .2 but the first time I ran it, it was stuck in 2nd gear. So, I came into the pits and told my pit guy to drop the gap down a little. So he did but the shift point wasn't in the right place but the main was starting and we didn't have time to adjust it again. But, I ran a 15 min. main and no stripped gear. I'm going to pull the 2-speed apart again, get the gap set right, and hopefully I won't have a stripped 2nd gear on my next race day.

And to the guys that are trying to blame the stripping gear problem on the "mechanics", you guys should consider yourselves lucky that you don't have the problem. You are not a better mechanic, you are just lucky. I ran the MTX-3 for 3 years and didn't have a problem like this and I had that car torn down and rebuilt just about once a month.

Or, ok, you are the best r/c mechanic in the world because you haven't had this problem. Maybe mine wouldn't have this problem either if it sat on a shelf.

Too many experienced people have had this problem to blame it on stupidity. It is proven to be a design flaw. Look I still love the car, handles like a dream. But this problem needs to be discussed and fixed so that all of us can enjoy the car for what it does well which is everything else.

The problam has been and continues to be discussed on this thread every week. There are all the solutions you need here.

I guess all the 30 and 40 min. mains I run after a full day of qualifying with the same set of gears don't count. The harder I work the luckier I get.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:30 AM   #8019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbarn
I agree with this method. You have to be sure and set the second gear first, then check the first gear. Do it by amount of "play" and sound. They should have as little play as possible without getting any grinding noise when you spin them by hand. Take your time and be sure both gears are meshed . It's very easy to have the motor on an angle and mess up your mesh on one of the two gears. It's all done by feel and sound.

If you get good at this method you will not strip gears unless there is an outside force like boards or cars (especially those 1/8 maniacs).
When you're adjusting the 2-speed gear mesh, is the first spur gear off?

What a pain! RRR is so EZ. Just use the piece of paper on 1st gear and you're done!
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:38 AM   #8020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Well, I stripped 2nd gear again too. Did fine in my first 5 min. qual. but 2 min. into my 2nd qual. it let go. This time, I didn't have the car airborne a single time and did not hit anything. It just seems to let go for no reason. So, I didn't have alot of time but I replaced the gear, set the mesh super tight and the one thing I didn't do before was adjust the gap between the 2-speed shoes and housing. I found a couple other things that I thought had caused my problem but evidently not. So, I adjusted the gap to I thought .2 but the first time I ran it, it was stuck in 2nd gear. So, I came into the pits and told my pit guy to drop the gap down a little. So he did but the shift point wasn't in the right place but the main was starting and we didn't have time to adjust it again. But, I ran a 15 min. main and no stripped gear. I'm going to pull the 2-speed apart again, get the gap set right, and hopefully I won't have a stripped 2nd gear on my next race day.

And to the guys that are trying to blame the stripping gear problem on the "mechanics", you guys should consider yourselves lucky that you don't have the problem. You are not a better mechanic, you are just lucky. I ran the MTX-3 for 3 years and didn't have a problem like this and I had that car torn down and rebuilt just about once a month.

Or, ok, you are the best r/c mechanic in the world because you haven't had this problem. Maybe mine wouldn't have this problem either if it sat on a shelf.

Too many experienced people have had this problem to blame it on stupidity. It is proven to be a design flaw. Look I still love the car, handles like a dream. But this problem needs to be discussed and fixed so that all of us can enjoy the car for what it does well which is everything else.
Are you using the 52 tooth 2nd gear?

Use the steel pinon for second gear and do not run the 52. Locktight all 8 engine mount screws. I have had much better luck after doing these three things.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:40 AM   #8021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
When you're adjusting the 2-speed gear mesh, is the first spur gear off?

What a pain! RRR is so EZ. Just use the piece of paper on 1st gear and you're done!


I mesh my gears with both first gear and second and have not had a problem.
The main thing I do is to make sure the Exhaust is disconected so nothing is shifting the motor while I tighten the mesh.

Didn't you have a problem with your RRR shaft melting with the end screw that secures the spurs?
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:41 AM   #8022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
When you're adjusting the 2-speed gear mesh, is the first spur gear off?

What a pain! RRR is so EZ. Just use the piece of paper on 1st gear and you're done!

Yes it is. It's only an "E" clip to take it off. And while you are there you can oil the bearings. It's not like the old TC3 where you had to take the whole rear end apart.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:41 AM   #8023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M.
I mesh my gears with both first gear and second and have not had a problem.
The main thing I do is to make sure the Exhaust is disconected so nothing is shifting the motor while I tighten the mesh.

Didn't you have a problem with your RRR shaft melting with the end screw that secures the spurs?

Whats up Francis?

I can not believe Rev is gone................BUMMER!!

Are you going to Vegas for the Mugen race?
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:42 AM   #8024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M.
I mesh my gears with both first gear and second and have not had a problem.
The main thing I do is to make sure the Exhaust is disconected so nothing is shifting the motor while I tighten the mesh.

Didn't you have a problem with your RRR shaft melting with the end screw that secures the spurs?
No, that wasn't me.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:43 AM   #8025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbarn
Yes it is. It's only an "E" clip to take it off. And while you are there you can oil the bearings. It's not like the old TC3 where you had to take the whole rear end apart.
Thanks. That's what I thought you would have to do, but I wanted to make sure that's how you did it.
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