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Old 04-01-2007, 10:59 PM   #7996
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16/21 pinions!!! I thought my track was small. Could you post a pic of this track.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:17 PM   #7997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfro6512
16/21 pinions!!! I thought my track was small. Could you post a pic of this track.
Im running the 18/24 as mugen reccomended. I have a TZ motor and my track is small and im winding out pretty easy. Maybe not fully but good enough for me.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:25 PM   #7998
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
..........

I was also having some motor trouble , then finally got it to stay running. Then im running around and I didnt even hit the wall hard when my right rear wheel start flopping around like a useless limb.

Pull it in and its got a broken hinge pin/suspension shaft , broken arm , stripped ball holder. I then talk to one of the guys on the track and hes like man , my RRR never really broke anything for the last year.

Im like me either, I never broke my r40 like that except for one time at the end of a straight I took the turn way to fast and smacked the wall. I go into the lhs and my friend who also runs a mtx-4 says hes never seen that on his car.
I get the same problem like yours in the past.

I solved bent hinge pins with these : ...... no broken hinge pins so far.




This one is optional if you insist total strength :

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Old 04-01-2007, 11:31 PM   #7999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfro6512
16/21 pinions!!! I thought my track was small. Could you post a pic of this track.
I was experimenting. Track infield layout was very tight today with a lot of turns.

Here is a pic of the track, but not today's layout: click here

This was today's layout (from memory): click here
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:34 PM   #8000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Im running the 18/24 as mugen reccomended. I have a TZ motor and my track is small and im winding out pretty easy. Maybe not fully but good enough for me.
Previous race I was running 17/23. I'm going to switch back to these for the next race.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:49 PM   #8001
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Gear strip story again ? mesh the gear on the tight side and symatrically will keep your gear good.

I am using the same gear from Day 1 through at least 2 gallion of fuel and have 2 Head-to-wall crash and several side crashes by 1/8th scale. my chassis is bent, my gear is worn but none of them stripped. there is no problem with the design nor the need of upgrade part, just properly mesh the gear
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:52 PM   #8002
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For Rear Upright :

Use toothpick to measure depth inside the rear upright.
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Old 04-02-2007, 12:38 AM   #8003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
Gear strip story again ? mesh the gear on the tight side and symatrically will keep your gear good.

I am using the same gear from Day 1 through at least 2 gallion of fuel and have 2 Head-to-wall crash and several side crashes by 1/8th scale. my chassis is bent, my gear is worn but none of them stripped. there is no problem with the design nor the need of upgrade part, just properly mesh the gear
How tight are your gears? Is there any gap between the gears at all? Can you provide a photo?

Mine are copy paper tight, using the RRR method. That's probably not tight enough.

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Old 04-02-2007, 01:14 AM   #8004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
How tight are your gears? Is there any gap between the gears at all? Can you provide a photo?

Mine are copy paper tight, using the RRR method. That's probably not tight enough.

Copy paper is too thick, if you use paper method, go with paper thickness equivalant to those used in a dictionary or Best Buy reciept.

when I mesh my gear, I don't use paper, I just try to have it that when pinion hold still, the spur can move no more than you can just feel it move and no more than that.
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:19 AM   #8005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
Copy paper is too thick, if you use paper method, go with paper thickness equivalant to those used in a dictionary or Best Buy reciept.

when I mesh my gear, I don't use paper, I just try to have it that when pinion hold still, the spur can move no more than you can just feel it move and no more than that.
Thanks! I will definitely give it a try.
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:12 AM   #8006
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The MTX-4R should be available in afew weeks . These photos were taken at the RCX 2007 show this past weekend.
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:18 AM   #8007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I was experimenting. Track infield layout was very tight today with a lot of turns.

Here is a pic of the track, but not today's layout: click here

This was today's layout (from memory): click here
Unbelieveable !! Too small

For Mini Coopers racing should be great track.
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:29 AM   #8008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Well my race went stinky.

I showed up and repaired the car. New arms , I took an r40 hinge pin and sure enough it was the right size , just too long. I shaved it down and stuck it in.

Off to the races I go. Right off the bat on the track I noticed when I would apply throttle it would kick the car out to one side really bad. Then I would be driving and all of a sudden the car would turn pretty uncontrollably. Im pretty sure it was the car but was pretty baffled.

I bring in the car and yipee the rear camber link was loose and the wheel could wobble. Thinking this would be the trick I fixed it and back onto the track.

Arg , same situation still , maybe not as bad but sure enough bad. I just couldnt drive it , had to stop cause It was just smacking into walls with really no reason. The odd thing though on the straight I could pretty much get upto speed and it held straight but when turning and such it just wasnt right.

If anyone has any idea of what it could be let me know. Im going to get it on a setup board tonight and see if my eyeballing wasnt correct. Otherwise im completely confused.

The only thing I could think would be the radio. But the fact that it was kicking out is a sign its the car. So im not so happy right now.

Check these:

1.Is there a stripped/rounded wheel hex and/or wheel hex socket?
2.Are the pillow balls binding? Too loose?
3.Does the rear arm drop under it's own weight?
4.Does the rear swaybar move up/down freely?
5.Is the droop screws equal?
6.Are the dogbones binding?

Since you just rebuilt the rear suspension, I would suspect #2 & #3 and maybe #5.

I would also suspect #1 because of the crash you had last week that caused the arm/hingepin breakage. This only applies if you are using the same wheel/tire from last race and/or you are using the stock plastic wheel hexes.

Check both front and rear.


Hope this helps.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:43 AM   #8009
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Default Donít just settle for its looks fine- if in doubt go over it again

I would like to say I had my MTX4 for year now and I never strip a gear. Like I said in previous post, Guys you have to be a good mechanic. Also check all moving part align all part to perfection donít skip out on any thing ď donít just settle for its looks fine- if in doubt go over it again. The MTX4 is great car out the box. My car is fully hop up or (OTT) with Kawahara Parts the only thing thats missing is parts not yet release from Mugen and Kawahara my servo horns are Serpent's for my KOís my muffler wire is the one for the serpent 720
I made List of the parts with part Numbers
Kawahara Parts
M-426Ventilated brake
K-498 Dress engine mount
K-737 64 titanium F upper suspension pin
K-738 64 titanium F lower suspension pin
K-739 64 titanium F lower suspension pin
K-761 Lightweight 1st gear gear housings
K-762 Lightweight 2nd gear gear housings
K-763 Aluminum foil hub
K-851 Middle propeller strut
K-852aUpper arm bracket
K-853 Mechanic post
K-855 Brake bar
K-856 Steering wheel saber
K-857 Front damper stay
K-858 Rear damper stay
K-859 Rear upper arm bracket
K-860 Front body mount base
K-861 Rear suspension mount F
K-862 Rear license plate
K-714 Brake pulley
K-754 Belt pulley
K-863 Belt pulley
K-864 Belt pulley.
K-866 Kepler core band L.F.K front belt
K-867 Kepler core band L.F.K center belt
K-868 Kepler core band L.F.K rear belt
K-869 Stainless steel brake cam
K-871 Roll bar mount set
K-875 Front body mounts plate
K-876Rear body mount plate
K-877 Rear brace
K-878 Adjustable stabilizer set
K-880[Belt Tension plate
K-882 MTX-4 chassis PRO (4T)
K-883 Front one-way set
Serpent Parts
SER-1599 710/720/960 Exhaust Mounting Wire
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:15 AM   #8010
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lol sorry for bringing up the stripping gears issue again guys

yeah, as above user, i was the same, never stripped a gear but all of a sudden i stripped 4 in 1 race day. I am putting it down to worn out bearings in the 2 speed housing.

my car was new, and all set correctly and it was fine, but i have had a fair collection of meets with it now.i did all the fixes except the 2 speed housing. my mate had this issue at the worlds, he changed the housing and all was fine.
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