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Old 04-01-2007, 06:49 AM   #7981
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One thing i see isn't on the list is a worn bearing in the 2 speed spur hubs TomB
Jay had the same problem in brisvegas and found that that was the issue!
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:19 AM   #7982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
What the heck is that thing....ha. Like a thrust bearing or something?
Yes, it is! It was so funny. I unscrewed the cap screw, remove the thrust bearing and clutch bell. I check the bearings and put the clutch bell back on. Then I reach for the thrust bearing to grease it and I'm like, WTF is this? Is this my thrust bearing? This is my thrust bearing!!

First time I've blown a thrust bearing...
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:33 PM   #7983
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Cuz noone answered my question about the rear optional mugen stablizer i went test it today..

The rear end gains a lot of grip and makes the car easier to drive..

Its a musthave
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:36 PM   #7984
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Well my race went stinky.

I showed up and repaired the car. New arms , I took an r40 hinge pin and sure enough it was the right size , just too long. I shaved it down and stuck it in.

Off to the races I go. Right off the bat on the track I noticed when I would apply throttle it would kick the car out to one side really bad. Then I would be driving and all of a sudden the car would turn pretty uncontrollably. Im pretty sure it was the car but was pretty baffled.

I bring in the car and yipee the rear camber link was loose and the wheel could wobble. Thinking this would be the trick I fixed it and back onto the track.

Arg , same situation still , maybe not as bad but sure enough bad. I just couldnt drive it , had to stop cause It was just smacking into walls with really no reason. The odd thing though on the straight I could pretty much get upto speed and it held straight but when turning and such it just wasnt right.

If anyone has any idea of what it could be let me know. Im going to get it on a setup board tonight and see if my eyeballing wasnt correct. Otherwise im completely confused.

The only thing I could think would be the radio. But the fact that it was kicking out is a sign its the car. So im not so happy right now.
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:16 PM   #7985
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Are both your rear dogbones still there?
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Old 04-01-2007, 04:42 PM   #7986
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Definately slap it on a setup board. I eyeballed my car also, but it is in no way as good as a setup system. The car still handled the way I wanted it too regardless for a test run atleast.



For those camber links I apply a little thread lock to those screws as on my MRX4 they easily came loose unless you really torqued them on which is no good. Pretty much just have to sand down my CF parts and seal them. Other than that I also did the switch mod leaveing the rx plug and female batt connector on the same piece of wiring. It ineed works well and better than a switch. Don't laugh that HB servo won't be in there for long.



As for the car start off with the factory specs. I had great luck with them on the 8th and the sedan should be the same. Too much droop, preload, and uneven shocks I found to be one of the culprits to handling for me. I haven't seen anyone else use different springs for the MTX4 so I'd stay with them and the shock fluid. How about the track and is it dusty or do they have any traction additive on there?
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:23 PM   #7987
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Default Servos spacing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump
Make sure you are using the correct servo spacers.

It really is not a servo spacing issue from what I can tell. There are two problems.

1. the servo horn is two long and interferes with the top deck. I am trying to find a smaller horn.

2. the ball link rubs against the top of the servo case.

I think I can solve the first but the second is very anoying. What servo is mugen recommending that works without a great deal of mods?

I am not impress with this part of the install and build. The rest of the kit is nice, but the steering is like it was an after thought, which I find it hard to believe.
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:57 PM   #7988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Are both your rear dogbones still there?
The only thing that was missing was the two rubber o-rings. Which im thinking may have allowed the dog bone to slide over enough to only power one wheel, which all would make sense.

Im gonna find some o-rings and stuff them in there and hope it comes back. Also put it on the setup board and its perfect. Didnt need a change. I counted the threads on the good side and just used that as a basis , hit 2 degrees toe and 3 camber right on the button.

Im hoping its the o-ring , I didnt think it would be important but Im now thinking that has to be it. (the o-rings shot out when I ripped the arm off). Which btw I already ordered some k-factory hardened pins. I dont think thats going to happen again.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 04-01-2007 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:00 PM   #7989
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i would just go through the whole car and make sure everything is working properly.
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:38 PM   #7990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
ay guys i busted 4 spur gears, and finished no races at my last race meet. i'm not looking to bring up another "stripped spurs remedy" discussion, but i am just looking for a "yes" or a "correct" and if you could tell me if i have outlined all the possible issues that affect spur stripping. ok here is what i remember either helps stop, or causes a stripped gear:

1-worn pinions
2-worn clutch bell bearings
3-worn 2 speed casing bearings
4-no washers on the top motor screws
5-top motor screws and bottom motor screws touching slightly at full screwed in positions
6-clutch bell touching the top cross brace
7-2 speed shaft moving from left to right due to pulley on the belt side not pushed in totally towards the left rear baulkhead
8-excessive pinion/spur gap
9-2 speed housing rubbing against clutch bell (noticable due to wear on bell and 2 speed housing
10-excessive gap between 2 speed shoes and the metal housing (ie minimise gap by tightening grub screws that push onto the steel balls)
11-excessive "slap" fromt he clutch when it enngages
12-muffler spring retainer that goes attached to the CF topdeck pushes the engine away from the spurs when it is tightened down, and the engine mount screws are at a loose setting
13-Alloy (stock pinions) installed


ok have i missed anything?
-i have installed a kawaharra carbonfibre cross brace, and a kawaharra 3mm chassis. i just wanna check to see if my above checklist is missing anything.
Most of the time it is #10. You will also want to check that the throttle servo is adjusted correctly and not pulling the engine away from the spur gears. Make sure that it only pulls the carb slide enough to full open and not any farther.
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:44 PM   #7991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The only thing that was missing was the two rubber o-rings. Which im thinking may have allowed the dog bone to slide over enough to only power one wheel, which all would make sense.

Im gonna find some o-rings and stuff them in there and hope it comes back. Also put it on the setup board and its perfect. Didnt need a change. I counted the threads on the good side and just used that as a basis , hit 2 degrees toe and 3 camber right on the button.

Im hoping its the o-ring , I didnt think it would be important but Im now thinking that has to be it. (the o-rings shot out when I ripped the arm off). Which btw I already ordered some k-factory hardened pins. I dont think thats going to happen again.

if what you say is true, get a set of CVD, it will solve the problem and never need to worry abotu the o-ring
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:50 PM   #7992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Most of the time it is #10. You will also want to check that the throttle servo is adjusted correctly and not pulling the engine away from the spur gears. Make sure that it only pulls the carb slide enough to full open and not any farther.

ok cool, i checked it the night before but you never know. i think it is the 2 speed housing bearing because when i replace the spur gear, the mesh has not moved fromt he previous setting. and i have only busted spurs if i smashed into someone or if i ran over a ripple strip aggressively.

i might actually also change the bearings that hold the entire 2 speed shaft, could have a bit of play in that...or maybe it's the rear baulheads where the bearings sit,...maybe its worn out
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:17 PM   #7993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M.
i would just go through the whole car and make sure everything is working properly.

There's the truth of the matter. Sounds like a lot of things that wouldn't happen if the car was built and maintained properly. The problems I am hearing are symtomatic of the mechanic not some manufacturer screw up. If you built and setup an RRR in the same manner it too would totally suck.

Not meant to pick a fight, you guys just have to be better mechanics
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:37 PM   #7994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbarn
There's the truth of the matter. Sounds like a lot of things that wouldn't happen if the car was built and maintained properly. The problems I am hearing are symtomatic of the mechanic not some manufacturer screw up. If you built and setup an RRR in the same manner it too would totally suck.

Not meant to pick a fight, you guys just have to be better mechanics

I say the above things because I too have gone through problems with my cars and thought "the manufacturer sucks" or "this is a dumb design" Most of the time it is not the car it was my ability to learn to set up and drive the car that was the problem. I have been through this personally.

All the time on this thread it's "the car sucks" or "this part is not right". Bottom line is if you read this thread, ask questions at the track about WHY things work or don't and learn to maintain your car better your chances of all the freak things happening are much less. This is not to say you won't have weird things happen sometimes but the incidence will go way down.

Sometimes random things happen in a race and parts break or do not perform. But I know I could build a box stock MTX-4 and not have any problems with it during an entire day at the track. This is true for two reasons:

1. I follow the directions meticulously.

2. I stay off the boards and other cars

Now, #2 is only acheived in synthesis with #1. The better your set up the better your driving and the more you drive the better your set up. (because you don't spend all you time fixing what you broke in the last race)

Go to the track and learn from the fast guys. Ask them "why" not just "what". If they just tell you the set up or trick hop up to do to your car you will never learn how to become faster in all conditions. That is why these guys are fast. They could get rid of all the fancy stuff on thier cars and still beat you all over the track. Their cars are maintained to the highest level and they know how to maximize any car. Any of the guys that represent manufacturers are happy to help. I have never met a sponsored driver that wasn't willing to explain why something should be done to a car. It's thier job in person and on the internet. Please strive to acheive a higher level with any car you drive.

I love racing and learning that is why I am getting faster all the time. Am I near "Pro" level, not even close......yet. But I strive to be there and have fun doing it.

None of this is meant to be negative about anyone on this thread. Learning and teaching are two of the greatest things in RC Racing and I would like to see people do more of it. This posting board is a great place to learn about different problem areas of the cars which certainly exist and have been addressed at length. If you know those things and learn the solutions your car will be great at the track.

I am off the soap box.

PS. No one on Dale Jr.'s crew is "eyeballing" anything. Measure everything.

Last edited by Bigbarn; 04-01-2007 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 10:29 PM   #7995
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Here is a fun story to go along with your post Kevin.

Today I was racing the MTX-4 with a Dodge Stratus body instead of the Lola. I was also trying Kawahara tires for the first time. The car was turning, but I had an understeer problem - so I figured it must either be the body (since I've never used the Stratus before) or the tires (i.e. way too much grip). I tried this and that with the setup and still couldn't get the car to turn tighter. So I finally pulled the car off the track, went through the menu on the transmitter and found out that my steering settings had been reset, so I didn't have full left/right steering. After adjusting the steering, the car ran fine. Wasn't the body. Wasn't the tires. It was me - because I didn't check the steering before I ran the car.

On a much more negative note, I stripped 2nd gear today. I flipped the car just before the sweeper going into the straight. Once the car was righted and I went down the straight, the car didn't shift and I knew I had stripped 2nd gear. After the run, I just put on another spur gear without adjusting anything else and didn't strip it again during the following race. If you were pitting next to me, you would have heard me bad mouthing the car. More than once.

Did the crash lead to the gear stripping? Not sure. How about the fact that I was using 16/21 pinions and the gears were winding out at the end of the straight? Also not sure. All I know for sure, is that the car shifted into 2nd gear during the previous lap. Am I pointing my finger at the car? Not yet.
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