HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

The day I tested mine I never really attemped to thrash it as I went slow to see the car at low speeds then slowly went faster. Lots of grip and the car went where I wanted it to go. I broke simple stuff on the R40, but the parts are weaker anyway.

EVIL-ET

just for the thinking process you have to realize if you have a weak point on your car and you strenghten it, you could be moving the problem to the next weakest point and if you follow this pattern you will come full circle.

cause if you hit something no matter what speed the energy has to go somewhere, so i think a little bit of give is ok. i'm like most racer i have a small budget to play with, so plastic and steel is cheaper to replace than carbon and alloy. It is annoying but i've learnt to live with it, cause you can't bet this sport for the fun factor

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Har Har Har.

No I get what you mean. But the few guys on the track even concluded that my hit wasnt much to net that kinda damage.

Even then at the same track , different car , never had this kinda problem. Only time I did this was at the end of the straight after pushing it too fast. Id say my car was doing maybe 10 mph in the inside corners. Where as the one hit on my other car I was doing maybe 50mph on the outside edge and gave a large and audible wack that even kinda got some eewwws and ahhhs from the crowd that day. LOL.

I figured the mugen materials seem better but this is kinda concerning to me. I always saw the hpi materials as kinda flexy and bendy and weak. It indeed stripped easy when it came to wacks. But never broke a pin or arm otherwise.

In fact nothing on the car broke , except when I added CG arms to the car. Then it broke out my rear plastic lower suspension mount. Which I then said , uhh huh. I know what to do with this and upgraded that part to aluminum and TADA. The only aluminum part on my car and it was well worth having , never had a problem like that again.

I just hope its a fluke cause ill be highly sad if this car ends up showing me its not as durable as my old hpi, cause as many problems as it had. Im glad it didnt have that one.

EVIL-ET

i don't know what it is but when i have had accident on fast corners and on slow corners, i have only ever broken parts on the slow corners. when i have had accident on fast corners i've thought this is going to be expensive but on checking the car i haven't seen any damage(to the naked eye anywhere)

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

While I was driving my car with a Lola body, someone took me out, which flipped the car and the crash broke a 3mm rear shock tower above the shock. Luckily, I could still finish the race - even with the left rear of the body flopping around a bit. It's no secret that the 3mm shock tower is too weak to begin with. I'm replacing it with the Mugen 4mm tonight.

BTW.. Were you using dish or spoked wheels?

EVIL-ET

i'm the other way round i've had big hits with the 3mm and the 4mm shock towers an only have broken the 4mm not the 3mm.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Ha good stories. Yeah ive already got the 4mm on there.

RMD: Remember to sand it first with some light grit sandpaper , clean it then apply some CA glue to it , then let it dry. This makes the piece a bit more durable and less open to cracking and fraying or getting caught on things.

I did it to mine and its so nice to pick up the car with it once its done. Very solid and smooth.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Once my driving improved, I stopped hitting things so hard and stopped breaking things. I haven't broken anything on my RRRs in months. Knock on wood.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Spoked. The walls are pvc pipes , held in place with sand bags. So there is some give. Quite frankly I cant remember what I really did to break it. I was driving in a tight section and Im sure I tapped the wall once or twice here and there but it didnt make any sense. Nothing sounded notable to break like this.

But luckily they do have hardened shafts for the car. Which im ordering tonight! I know theres a few out there.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

K

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Rainer, sand the edges and CA it. We used to do it to pan car chassis, 12th and 10th. And I still do it to all cf pieces on all my cars, it helps the cf from delaminating and splitting.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Okay. Thanks Roy.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

A.I. - You can add this to the casualty list as well. Found this while I was prepping the car for tomorrow.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

What the heck is that thing....ha. Like a thrust bearing or something?

TomB

iTrader: (10)

ay guys i busted 4 spur gears, and finished no races at my last race meet. i'm not looking to bring up another "stripped spurs remedy" discussion, but i am just looking for a "yes" or a "correct" and if you could tell me if i have outlined all the possible issues that affect spur stripping. ok here is what i remember either helps stop, or causes a stripped gear:

1-worn pinions
2-worn clutch bell bearings
3-worn 2 speed casing bearings
4-no washers on the top motor screws
5-top motor screws and bottom motor screws touching slightly at full screwed in positions
6-clutch bell touching the top cross brace
7-2 speed shaft moving from left to right due to pulley on the belt side not pushed in totally towards the left rear baulkhead
8-excessive pinion/spur gap
9-2 speed housing rubbing against clutch bell (noticable due to wear on bell and 2 speed housing
10-excessive gap between 2 speed shoes and the metal housing (ie minimise gap by tightening grub screws that push onto the steel balls)
11-excessive "slap" fromt he clutch when it enngages
12-muffler spring retainer that goes attached to the CF topdeck pushes the engine away from the spurs when it is tightened down, and the engine mount screws are at a loose setting
13-Alloy (stock pinions) installed


ok have i missed anything?
-i have installed a kawaharra carbonfibre cross brace, and a kawaharra 3mm chassis. i just wanna check to see if my above checklist is missing anything.