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Old 03-25-2007, 07:04 PM   #7891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghett0
Quick Question:

Iím currently tearing down my MTX-4 after this weekís race and I noticed that my servo saver has some play in it. Their seems to be some play with the servo saver on the metal shaft (1mm - 2mm of play up and down), I may have to shim that shaft so the servo saver doesnít slide up and down. Itís taking away from the MTX-4 steering abilities.

Just checking too see if anyone has had this problem after assembling the kit.

Thanks
Make sure you have both bearings installed(top and bottom)
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:47 PM   #7892
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Just drove the Mugen today and man must I saw this box stock setup feels a lot better than driving my older tourer! I think I did overpack for just a practice session though, but my concern was that the temps dropped. With frozen hands it was hard tryin to drive and with gloves I didn't have proper hand movement. Here's some pics I snapped...not much but still. I also picked up my Hudy gauges today and will definately try them out tomorrow.




My integy charger won't properly charge my 12vs so I guess it's back to the wall charger. It's ok though as my car jumpstart was there to save the day.


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Old 03-25-2007, 11:33 PM   #7893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghett0
Quick Question:

Iím currently tearing down my MTX-4 after this weekís race and I noticed that my servo saver has some play in it. Their seems to be some play with the servo saver on the metal shaft (1mm - 2mm of play up and down), I may have to shim that shaft so the servo saver doesnít slide up and down. Itís taking away from the MTX-4 steering abilities.

Just checking too see if anyone has had this problem after assembling the kit.

Thanks
You need to shim to reduce up and down movement. I use 0.1mm shim, get it from Tamiya shims. However, this is not necessary ( not big deal ).
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:03 AM   #7894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Just drove the Mugen today and man must I saw this box stock setup feels a lot better than driving my older tourer! I think I did overpack for just a practice session though, but my concern was that the temps dropped. With frozen hands it was hard tryin to drive and with gloves I didn't have proper hand movement. Here's some pics I snapped...not much but still. I also picked up my Hudy gauges today and will definately try them out tomorrow.




My integy charger won't properly charge my 12vs so I guess it's back to the wall charger. It's ok though as my car jumpstart was there to save the day.


It's big track.......... Lots of power & top speed. How is the grip ?
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Old 03-26-2007, 02:31 AM   #7895
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Great to hear that you enjoyed your Mtx4's maiden run HarK
Nice track out there!
Must be great in summer
At the moment it looks like It's Cold in them there hills
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:17 AM   #7896
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Does anybody know if the Mugen SJG3x8 screws, used to mount the motor to the chassis, are the same for the Kyosho #TSW27 one-piece engine mount? Rightnow my MTX4 is using the MonoTuning / Skyline one-piece engine mount but the site that I'm about to order some more MTX4 parts from doesn't carry it. They do carry the Kyosho one-piece engine mount and I've heard that it could be used. I would just like to keep the screw sizes the same. If its not the case, I guess I could order the new Skyline SKL-VR12PLUS and the engine mount from Skyline Racing.

Last edited by mgreen; 03-26-2007 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:48 AM   #7897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You need to shim to reduce up and down movement. I use 0.1mm shim, get it from Tamiya shims. However, this is not necessary ( not big deal ).
yeah thats what I figured, it is a big deal kinda, anything that takes away from steering is a problem.
thanks

Last edited by Ghett0; 03-26-2007 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:01 PM   #7898
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Default belt tension and roll center blocks

any info on here about how to properly set the belt tension positions, and asure they stay when attatching the upper bulk head. and am i the only one that thinks the rear block lower pieces are a confusing mess?
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:41 PM   #7899
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asw7576 - We haven't had the track sealed yet though. It was a vacant lot that was torn down, cleaned, layed down some asphalt and boom! It's roughly 208'x105', but something like the OS .12TZ is plenty enough as some made A main with that motor. Proper gearing, maneuvering, and consistency is needed. If you get passed on the straights a position can be regained in the infield. The stock GRPS handled exceptionally well...that or also due to the suspension setup as the car took the turns with ease. It steers, accelerates, and rolls better than my older R40 kit. So far 2nd gear hasn't stripped out on me yet, but first I'm going to get more spur gears and setup the car on the Hudy gauges. It only made sense to go with another Hudy product as they proved to me to be better than the integy gauges. Also, it's not fair for the 8th to get the goods and not the sedan.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:37 PM   #7900
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hi guys,

When setting the front droop, the only way i can get the right front wheel to get the right droop setting is to disconnect the front sway bar,

but as soon as i connect it back again the right front wheel does not fall to the right position I think its being held up by the sway bar, its allmost like the sway bar is bent any body else had this problem...
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:53 PM   #7901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragent
but as soon as i connect it back again the right front wheel does not fall to the right position I think its being held up by the sway bar, its allmost like the sway bar is bent any body else had this problem...
For front, you need to set the tweak with the dial on the sway bar holder. After that is set, then you can set droop and you will get a even setup from left to right.

Unlike the back where you disconnect the sway bar to set droop. Then do the tweak from the turn buckle connector. Front sway bar needs to be setup first before droop.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:56 PM   #7902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragent
hi guys,

When setting the front droop, the only way i can get the right front wheel to get the right droop setting is to disconnect the front sway bar,

but as soon as i connect it back again the right front wheel does not fall to the right position I think its being held up by the sway bar, its allmost like the sway bar is bent any body else had this problem...
You need to adjust the lever / dial on the lower suspension arm ( muffler side )

See attachment.

Don't let the sway bar ( the male vs female ) connected very deep into each other. You can see part of the ball ( the male ) slightly sticking out.
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-twist.jpg  
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:58 PM   #7903
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I tried doing that first, but got told i was doing it wrong.
Oh well i will go and set it up how i had the first time thanks.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:02 PM   #7904
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I think i will stick to the manual instead of listening to other people!
Thanks guys for helping.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:02 PM   #7905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
........ Also, it's not fair for the 8th to get the goods and not the sedan.
Allright !!!

Yes, Hudy makes the difference right ?
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