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Old 03-21-2007, 07:59 AM   #7816
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Also here is a great article on the subject:

http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=6&page=3
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:40 AM   #7817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay
I`m just thinking about the ackerman plates in the mtx-4. I have read here in the forum that:

A - aggressive
B - neutral
C - smooth

But when you look at the plates, you see that C has the holes in the middle. So C must be the neutral or not?!
Ok, forget. Need a glasses.

A-B-C is right
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Old 03-21-2007, 10:00 AM   #7818
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Mtx4R
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-dsc00003.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2007, 10:01 AM   #7819
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For your convenience, here's the Entry Form for the Capitol Classic.
Capitol Classic Entry

Load it up
Fill it in
Print it out
Sign it
Write the check
Mail it in
and Get it in!!!!
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:25 AM   #7820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay
Ok, forget. Need a glasses.

A-B-C is right
Heres a nice way to remember it.

A = Agressive

C = Chill or Cool = smooth..

Then of course B being the middle of those two.

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Old 03-21-2007, 01:05 PM   #7821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Heres a nice way to remember it.

A = Agressive

C = Chill or Cool = smooth..

Then of course B being the middle of those two.

I like that
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:17 PM   #7822
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Default jaykay's PDF Setup Sheet

jaykay, is your PDF Setup sheet still available to download, I can't find a link to it anywhere?

Regards, Diesel Racer
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:13 PM   #7823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I've been working on getting CG down in the car and a few weeks ago, I had hinted at this little prodject on my MTX-4. After careful consideration, I've decided to show it here and allow you all to see it, I'm sure that shortly afterwords someone will start producing it, and if so, just send me some free parts
Really cool mods James. Thanks for sharing your ideas and the photos.

I have a few questions for you, if you don't mind...

What are your thought on milling the mount points more versus the deck itself? I realize that the servo saver is somewhat of a problem. How do you think milling the upper deck impacts the performance of the upper deck, if at all?

Also, what type of mods did you try on the front and rear bulkheads that you feel didn't work? You can save some of us the time and effort of trying these mods that didn't work - not to mention the cost of the parts themselves.

Perhaps the reduction in tire wear can be attributed to the fact that you have less upper lateral weight transfer because of the lower CG. What do you think?
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:03 PM   #7824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Heres a nice way to remember it.

A = Agressive

C = Chill or Cool = smooth..

Then of course B being the middle of those two.

Im not certain that is correct. A is the front most position, C is the middle position and B is the rear most position. A has most ackerman angle, B has least ackerman angle (difference) C is in the middle. Well thats how it works out on my Hudy...........

Perhaps my thinking is wrong?
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Old 03-21-2007, 05:08 PM   #7825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
You didn't steel my "thunder", I didn't want to use a Lipo pack. That would defeat the pupose of the work that was done, wouldn't it? See, I wanted the Weight down, not to lighten the car. With a Lipo, you can make the car lighter, but then the CG goes up into the rest of the car. When you put the weight down low, you lower the CG. That was the purpose of the prodject. I didn't see what you had done, but you did a good job. Question, have you had any servo's fried with the lipo pack? And is that a 3 racing chassis?
i ilstalled a regulator when i used the lipo, but i'm just using a standard pack now, which i modified the batt brace so that the standard pack fitted lower.
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:07 PM   #7826
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Last edited by rcfoolz; 03-28-2007 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:27 PM   #7827
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Thanks for all the detailed information.

A guy I work with has a rapid prototype printer for composite materials and is in the process of acquiring one for titanium (side business). He is always telling me that I should come and make some stuff. This might be the perfect opportunity.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:32 PM   #7828
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When you do it, please let me know. I would like to see it produced. I have a few more things that I've done, but not tested yet.
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:15 PM   #7829
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I just wanted to drop a quick, big Thank You to everyone who offered advice to my 2nd gear stripping problem. I think I found the problem. I found severe wear on my aluminum chassis brace above the engine clutch. It appears that the 2nd gear housing was rubbing on it alot. Surprising how much wear there is after just one day of racing. This problem has been fixed. I also believe my loose gear mesh could of been a factor as well. It's kind of nice how tight you can make the mesh without it binding. I am confident that I won't have that problem again. But if I do, you guys will be the first I turn to. Just goes to show how great the "Mugen" guys are. Thanks again!
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:15 PM   #7830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I looked at doing the mount points first, but I wasn't happy with the fact that it would have removed screw hole depth. The idea with doing the deck was also because I was looking for a tuning device for chassis flex. I'd used two types of carbon fiber, one that was flexible and one that was very stiff. I found that using the one that flexed, flexed too much, and the stiff one was much better overall once the mounting points were milled .5 mm and got even better at 1mm. So now the upper deck is providing flex to the car that is used for a tuning. The only time I think I would use the deck with more flex is if I was on a very smooth track, but I like it with the one that is in it now...its perfect for me...(more on this later).

As for the front and rear, I worked on an adjustable lower arm mounts for the rear and front. The rear worked ok, but when you lower the arms down in the front, the mount was weakend to much and cracked, not to mention the arm had to be re-shaped. The rear worked ok when lowered, but that had a very serious side effect. Rear belts! I went through 3 rear belts in a 2 day event. There is some serious clearance issues that with more time I could work out. This led me to another modification that I wasn't going to mention, but since you asked.

The front and rear diffs have been lowered in my car. That was done by milling out the area that the concentric hub sits in down 1mm... then the upper mount for the locks had to be lowered as well buy removing 1mm from the mounting point on the bulkheads, leaving the locking parts stock. This had moved the front & rear shock towers down 1mm and the rear camber link. I had to cut another set of front shock towers and camber link bar with all the holes up 1mm. Now I have 2 shock towers to choose from as well as more adjustments on the camber link bar. I'm kind of liking the stock shock tower holes, as it gives the suspension more down travel.

As for the tire wear, the only thing that I can figure is that it is less lateral side travel/movement. The car has become more stable and as it has been described to me as "perfect balance" as the car is shimmy-ing through the corners, I can drive it harder. I've not changed the setup on my car since before the Winternats, and have ran on 3 different tracks, Kissimmee, Ft Myers, and Port Charlote, all different typs of tracks. All 3 tracks, have had the same feel to the car. I'm not as smooth as some of the racers here in Florida, we have a lot of VERY FAST RACERS that run our state series, but my lap times have improved. And as soon as my health is back, I hope to spend the time on my driving to get me up from the B and into the A.
A picture tells a thousand words. Good jobs RCF !!!

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