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Old 03-20-2007, 02:22 PM   #7801
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sorry guys.. should have posted a new thread.. sorry again
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:41 PM   #7802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker
Guys,

Quick question is there a color differnce between the Titanium or steel pivot balls. I know that you can tell by weight, but can a picture show the visual difference?
One way is to slightly hit the part with a sanding drum from a dremel if the sparks are pure white then the part is titanuim if you get corlered sparks it's probally steel. Just don't destroy the part doing the test.
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:26 PM   #7803
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Originally Posted by lil-bump
One way is to slightly hit the part with a sanding drum from a dremel if the sparks are pure white then the part is titanuim if you get corlered sparks it's probally steel. Just don't destroy the part doing the test.
The Titanium ones are gray in color, and the steel ones are a shiny chrome color. Basically, the titanium looks faded.
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:11 PM   #7804
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The Titanium ones are gray in color, and the steel ones are a shiny chrome color. Basically, the titanium looks faded.

Thanks



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Old 03-21-2007, 03:18 AM   #7805
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I`m just thinking about the ackerman plates in the mtx-4. I have read here in the forum that:

A - aggressive
B - neutral
C - smooth

But when you look at the plates, you see that C has the holes in the middle. So C must be the neutral or not?!
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:23 AM   #7806
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Originally Posted by jeff whiting
SPAMMER.....

Who is Julius Koff?
I bet he would be faster if he drove a Mugen!
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:24 AM   #7807
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:29 AM   #7808
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Nice one RCF!
A bit of work to do a one off but how did it go when you tried it out?
is there a huge difference to the handling? more planted, corner speed, steering Etc..????
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:35 AM   #7809
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:39 AM   #7810
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:47 AM   #7811
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:49 AM   #7812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I did something else that was trick too. I moved my personal transponder to the bottom of the front bumper and tucked it up in front of the sway bars. Ran the wire along the chassis and used shoe goo to make sure the wire didn't want to get tangled. Also, I had to modify the battery pack and move the wires so that they came out the side, not the end, as I had used up all the space front to rear with the lowering of it.

don't mean to steel your thunder rc foolz but i did this already last year i used a lipo pack initially but i have maintained the lowered tank now also, but i have installed a standard NIMH pack in my car now. i have achieved the lowered tank with a standard pack by sanding down a CF fivestar battery holder brace down by half it's thickness, and shimming it to sit almost flush with the chassis.

you could also lower the throttle servo as well considerably if you use a 9550 and create some sort of fandangled servo horn that is tall enough/strong enough.
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:48 AM   #7813
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:49 AM   #7814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


The championship edition is what Fukuda used at the IFMAR Worlds, so I think it's going to be limited to only those 3 parts that have already been discussed.

IMO, Mugen will wait to see how their prototype Prospec compares to the XRAY NT1 on the track before finalizing anything. In addition, that 720 brake/2-speed one-way is also some pretty cool stuff.
Sorry im not sure if your confused on what I said. As well have no clue what your talking about.

My point is the mtx-4R is the japanese release of the kit thats already out , the championship edition. With HPI they had similiar deals , US would get a certain version with certain option parts. While japan would get another version with a different name. Very similiar with key differences. Like the 2005 Edition PRO4 , where the US got the Hara Edition Pro4. In japan it seems they dont tag along a drivers name. Where outside of japan they do.

I also dont think the mtx-4r and prospec are the same car. I believe the prospec is still under works and will contain quite a difference in setup and options. With a prototype soon to be released.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:22 AM   #7815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
You didn't steel my "thunder", I didn't want to use a Lipo pack. That would defeat the pupose of the work that was done, wouldn't it? See, I wanted the Weight down, not to lighten the car. With a Lipo, you can make the car lighter, but then the CG goes up into the rest of the car. When you put the weight down low, you lower the CG. That was the purpose of the prodject. I didn't see what you had done, but you did a good job. Question, have you had any servo's fried with the lipo pack? And is that a 3 racing chassis?
Im also working on something similiar. Its a tad bit easier and it brings the weight down lower than usual as well keeps it more compacted.

I have completely lightened up the car way too much. 1553G with no body. So now im using that to create a lower CG. Its really easy and not only that mine is tunable. Ill show you guys later once I play around with it more.

But the gas tank doesnt seem that big of a deal if you ask me. Most of the top portion of the thank that comes out isnt always filled with gas and is in the center. It shouldnt make much of a difference in roll center. I mean in theory it should help , but Im pretty sure its probably not the reason why your feeling a big difference. The lower battery should help and thats more or less what im working on with a twist. But if anyone who runs a novarossi motor wants some reduced roll center contact me. Ive got specially made aluminum heatsinks that weight like 7 grams and there low. Thats a good way to easily remove some roll-center thats pretty high up. Should liven the rear end a good bit.

As well going extremely underweight. My servos weigh around 30G each yet there digital and very fast. Then I take all that extra weight and place it at the bottom of the chassis.
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