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Old 03-19-2007, 09:57 AM   #7771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Well, here we go again...I ran my MTX-4 for the first time at a club race yesterday and I stripped second gear about 3 min. into the main. I ran 2 qualifiers and a little practice with no problems. I've read a lot on here about this and I wanted to prevent having this problem so I checked and adjusted the gap in my 2-speed, bought a one-piece engine mount and the aluminum upper-deck brace, carefully checked my gear mesh for 1st and 2nd gear and it would seem that none of that helped. I have run in this same parking lot for a couple years and have never stripped one gear, always both and usually because the motor shifted. Well, the motor didn't shift because when I popped the new gear on, the mesh was the same as before. I'm pretty sure it happened when I hit a bump at the end of our back straight and the car went airborne for a second. My MTX-3 has handled that bump many times without a problem. So, once again, any suggestions???
Once you go airborne all bets are off. If you're on throttle when it comes back down, the chassis may flex and you're toast. The number one rule when you go airborne is, get off the throttle. My guess is, even if you were off-throttle when you came back down, you were going fast enough, that it was enough to strip the gears.

BTW.. I always recheck my gear mesh after putting on a new gear.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:02 AM   #7772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump
What site are these parts from. I'd to see the two piece engine mount
The parts list is from the Japanese magazine photo a few posts up.

Here is a picture of the two-piece mount. It's not what you're thinking...

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/4944925006333/

You can pretty much Google these, except for the ones in Japanese and T0151-B. Just put "T0171 MTX-4" with out the quotation marks.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:12 AM   #7773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I think in japan the championship edition = mtx4r. I still believe there is a mtx-4 prospec that is going to come out in a few months this is where we should see a greater change in parts.


The championship edition is what Fukuda used at the IFMAR Worlds, so I think it's going to be limited to only those 3 parts that have already been discussed.

IMO, Mugen will wait to see how their prototype Prospec compares to the XRAY NT1 on the track before finalizing anything. In addition, that 720 brake/2-speed one-way is also some pretty cool stuff.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:33 AM   #7774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Once you go airborne all bets are off. If you're on throttle when it comes back down, the chassis may flex and you're toast. The number one rule when you go airborne is, get off the throttle. My guess is, even if you were off-throttle when you came back down, you were going fast enough, that it was enough to strip the gears.

BTW.. I always recheck my gear mesh after putting on a new gear.
I always recheck the mesh when changing gears too, who doesn't? I just said that I popped a new one on to see if the motor had shifted but it didn't. I'm pretty sure I was off the throttle when it landed but can't say for sure. But, like I said, my MTX-3 never had this problem and since i'm running on the same pavement, I figure the problem is in the design of the 4.

Thanks for trying but does anyone have any other advice?
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:35 AM   #7775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


The championship edition is what Fukuda used at the IFMAR Worlds, so I think it's going to be limited to only those 3 parts that have already been discussed.

IMO, Mugen will wait to see how their prototype Prospec compares to the XRAY NT1 on the track before finalizing anything. In addition, that 720 brake/2-speed one-way is also some pretty cool stuff.

What prototype are you talking about? The prospec has been always been the same version of the car with some option parts included in a better price package vs buying a standard kit + option parts.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:39 AM   #7776
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I found the shim in my little compartment of shims in my toolbox. They might have come from a pack of 1/8 buggy shims I bought a while back. I believe the ID of the shim is 6mm
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:41 AM   #7777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis M.
What prototype are you talking about? The prospec has been always been the same version of the car with some option parts included in a better price package vs buying a standard kit + option parts.
I'm making an assumption that the Prospec will not be the same as the 4R and that there will be testing new option parts, which is what I meant by prototype. Did not mean to imply that the prospec is a new car.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:47 AM   #7778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I'm making an assumption that the Prospec will not be the same as the 4R and that there will be testing new option parts, which is what I meant by prototype. Did not mean to imply that the prospec is a new car.
There is no "new" car. The MTX4-R is just a MTX-4 with every option part available for the MTX-4. The only new part in the kit will be 2 in 1 one-way.
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Old 03-19-2007, 11:10 AM   #7779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
There is no "new" car. The MTX4-R is just a MTX-4 with every option part available for the MTX-4.
Yeah, I knew that the 4R was just a 4 with the option parts. The only reason I clarified what I said, was because I was under the impression that Francis thought I meant "new car" when I used the word "prototype".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
The only new part in the kit will be 2 in 1 one-way.
2-in-1 meaning that you can convert it into a solid?

Has the 2-degree front upright always been available? I couldn't find that part number anywhere...
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Old 03-19-2007, 11:11 AM   #7780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
There is no "new" car. The MTX4-R is just a MTX-4 with every option part available for the MTX-4. The only new part in the kit will be 2 in 1 one-way.
So there isnt another car in the works (pro-spec)? I spoke with someone at mugen usa and was told about 2 weeks ago that the prototype car was still in designs and that it should be finishing up soon so a prototype would be released in the coming months.

Thanks for popping in. Let us know.

PS. While your here do you know of fixes for keeping the 2nd gear from stripping. It seems mtx-4 drivers are still searching for some good fixes.
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Old 03-19-2007, 12:24 PM   #7781
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Interesting to see all the discussion about strip gear. I brought the car few months ago and run almost every weekend, I crash alot, hit the pole in the front, get smashed by 1/8th scale from the sides several time (destroy 2 headers), fly off the ground and flip without a body shell, with all those abuses, I am still using my gear from the kit. (i waste so much money on spare gears that I didn't use )

I did set the gear mesh on the tight side but not enough to induce speed lost, locktide my engine mount, nothing bad happend at all.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:39 PM   #7782
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IMO, there is no design flaw which is causing the gear to strip. There are a number of factors which will contribute to a gear stripping, all of which I believe have been covered in this thread. Bottom line is, if you're car is not adjusted properly or gets out of adjustment, for whatever reason - human error, wear, shifting of parts due to vibration or accident, inopportune chassis flex, rocks, debris, etc.., you increase the likelihood that your gears are going to strip. This applies to any car.

To expect that you will not strip a gear is unreasonable. Given enough time, everyone will strip a gear - sooner or later, no matter what car you drive. It's the law of averages. Even the pros strip gears - and I've read plenty of race reports that attest to this fact.
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:25 PM   #7783
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Thanks for your opinion. Not much help though..
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:40 PM   #7784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
Thanks for your opinion. Not much help though..

Other things you may want to check:

1. Make sure you have the lock washers on the top engine mount screws. Not having the lock washers will make the screws go in further which could hit the bottom screws. When this happens, it will seem like the screws are really tight but the motor is not.

2. Clutch bearings - check and see if they have excessive play already. The 5x8 bearings are pretty cheap and it's a good idea to replace them regularly.

3. Pinions - as you run your car, the pinions do get sharp and relatively smaller then brand new which requires you to move the motor and tighten the mesh again.

4. Clutch end play - you want minimum clutch end play. Huge end play makes the clutch engage too hard.

5. Clutch bell and 2speed housing - as you tighten your mesh the clutch bell sometimes gets to close to the 2speed housing and with chassis flex (while running), it tends to hit each other. If you need to tighten your mesh and clutch bell is already a hair away from the 2speed housing, it may be a good idea to replace the pinions (see #3).

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-19-2007, 04:52 PM   #7785
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We have the same discussion here in germany with the gear stripping and i can`t understand it. Never had problems.
Some guys say, it happens while the 3mm chassis has too much flex. So use the 4mm one. Myself i can`t see any diffrent. Both works great and I have no gear stripping.

Just another questions to all Spool Driver and of course also Mike S. can say something about.

Do you lost a lot of traction in curves with a spool and when you use a spool, which oil do you use in the rear diff? Normaly that you have the most traction with a one way, than diff and last spool in the front. Is it so?

What is the really good thing when you use a spool?

I have not experience with spools, so I asked. Normally i`m a one way driver
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