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Old 03-18-2007, 11:18 PM   #7756
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Ohh NO, it is a R, time to save up for MTX-5
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Old 03-18-2007, 11:19 PM   #7757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
Ohh NO, it is a R, time to save up for MTX-5
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Old 03-18-2007, 11:31 PM   #7758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbarn
If only I could read Japanese.
Its got part numbers.
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Old 03-19-2007, 12:35 AM   #7759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ND
The M-Mod stuff is really high quality, and works very well. I use there stuff on my MTX-4 and MRX4-R. If your looking for some hop-ups these are worth a good look.
I would if their preices wouldn't be so outrageous
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:21 AM   #7760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF25510
check it out
MTX-4R Parts List

T0142: Aluminum Wheel Hubs
T0151-B : Front Lower Suspension Arm (Guess, base on existing T0151)
T0161: Rear Upper Arm Mount
T0164 : フロントアッブライト (2 degree) [ Front upright, 2 degree angle ]
T0245 : Front Universal Joint Set
T0268 : Front Belt (Rubber)
T0269 : Rear Belt (Rubber)
T0270 : Side Belt (rubber)
T0274 : Rear Universal Joint Set
T0276 : フロントワンウェイドライブアクスル [ Front one-way driving axle - revised? ]
H0369 : Ventilated Brake Disk
T0717 : Aluminum Engine Mount [ This part is two pieces?]

If you have an MTX-4, you probably already have most of this anyway. The 2-degree front upright is an interesting upgrade. This is already an option part for the RRR.
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Old 03-19-2007, 04:58 AM   #7761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
MTX-4R Parts List

T0142: Aluminum Wheel Hubs
T0151-B : Front Lower Suspension Arm (Guess, base on existing T0151)
T0161: Rear Upper Arm Mount
T0164 : フロントアッブライト (2 degree) [ Front upright, 2 degree angle ]
T0245 : Front Universal Joint Set
T0268 : Front Belt (Rubber)
T0269 : Rear Belt (Rubber)
T0270 : Side Belt (rubber)
T0274 : Rear Universal Joint Set
T0276 : フロントワンウェイドライブアクスル [ Front one-way driving axle - revised? ]
H0369 : Ventilated Brake Disk
T0717 : Aluminum Engine Mount [ This part is two pieces?]

If you have an MTX-4, you probably already have most of this anyway. The 2-degree front upright is an interesting upgrade. This is already an option part for the RRR.
What site are these parts from. I'd to see the two piece engine mount
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:23 AM   #7762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Mugen Germany has some pretty interesting parts for the MTX-4. Anybody using any of them? Check out the Produkte -> M-Mod by Mid section.

http://www.mid-mugen.de
Wow, those bits look mighty fine
i like the look of their side belt tensioner!
Aswell as the Batery holder, rear swaybar, break arm..................etc. etc.
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:28 AM   #7763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
Ohh NO, it is a R, time to save up for MTX-5
I think that with all these extras ( most of which we all have on our cars anyway, apart from the hat! ) the current Mtx4 and R will be very competitive for at least 2 years yet
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:02 AM   #7764
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Well, here we go again...I ran my MTX-4 for the first time at a club race yesterday and I stripped second gear about 3 min. into the main. I ran 2 qualifiers and a little practice with no problems. I've read a lot on here about this and I wanted to prevent having this problem so I checked and adjusted the gap in my 2-speed, bought a one-piece engine mount and the aluminum upper-deck brace, carefully checked my gear mesh for 1st and 2nd gear and it would seem that none of that helped. I have run in this same parking lot for a couple years and have never stripped one gear, always both and usually because the motor shifted. Well, the motor didn't shift because when I popped the new gear on, the mesh was the same as before. I'm pretty sure it happened when I hit a bump at the end of our back straight and the car went airborne for a second. My MTX-3 has handled that bump many times without a problem. So, once again, any suggestions???
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:06 AM   #7765
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How does the 2 deg upright affect the handling?

Is it the same part as the "recently" released uprights?
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:11 AM   #7766
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JetMD,

Any signs of wear where the rear roll bar is close to the 2nd speed clutch bell? Also check for wear on the brace that spans over the engine clutch bell. I have a shim behind the 2 speed assembly (behind the pin) so there is less chance the 2 speed clutch bell will hit the engine brace.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:21 AM   #7767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
JetMD,

Any signs of wear where the rear roll bar is close to the 2nd speed clutch bell? Also check for wear on the brace that spans over the engine clutch bell. I have a shim behind the 2 speed assembly (behind the pin) so there is less chance the 2 speed clutch bell will hit the engine brace.
Where did you get this shim? I had to modify a clutch bell shim
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:36 AM   #7768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
JetMD,

Any signs of wear where the rear roll bar is close to the 2nd speed clutch bell? Also check for wear on the brace that spans over the engine clutch bell. I have a shim behind the 2 speed assembly (behind the pin) so there is less chance the 2 speed clutch bell will hit the engine brace.
Thanks, I will look into that. I'm guessing that these problems only come up when you hit bumps right?
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:00 AM   #7769
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I think in japan the championship edition = mtx4r. I still believe there is a mtx-4 prospec that is going to come out in a few months this is where we should see a greater change in parts.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:09 AM   #7770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
This give the car the easy option of switching from one way to a spool, via slipping a pin in and out of the diff and covering with a rubber o-ring.

The spool allows you to use 4 wheel braking. Rather than the rear wheels, which can result in spinning the car out if you brake too hard. This gives the car the ability to brake harder.

The spool is more aggressive out of a corner. The one-way allows more turn in and on power grip. The reason , the one-way allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds in a corner, which both tires wont spin at the same speed in a turn as one is on the inside and the other the outside. So this gives more grip and decreases tire wear , where as a spool setup the front tires will wear more as the wheels turn at the same rate throughout the turn.

Spool Is good for tight technical tracks. One-Way is good for high speed sweeping tracks. Driving both is pretty different , essentially with a one-way your coasting through corners and using good lines and more turn in to scrub speed where as the spool your driving more aggressive, braking and accelerating. Id also gather with a spool your going to use more gas per minute. I personally like a spool. But have yet to really goto a track with high speed sweeping turns. But either way its good to have braking. Another benefit of the spool is almost zero maintenance. You never need to lube or worry about its action from one day to the next or one track to the next. Its a locked mechanism and therefore nothing should degrade except for slop in the shaft cups. Reason why I like spools. No real fuss and you can brake like an animal.
Thank you AI.

But you haven't answer my original question : The possible benefit for using One Way Spool ( Solid One Way ). Will it induce more steering off throttle ?

Kawahara front one way can be use in three ways :
1. Classis One Way System
2. Spool ( full lock left and right and get front brakes )
3. One Way Spool or Solid 1 way ( left and right tires are rotating at the same rate but NO front brakes ).

Thanks for your suggestion / expertise once again.
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