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Old 03-04-2007, 07:50 PM   #7576
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Cut one side off and use dremel to round
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:55 PM   #7577
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Cut one side off and use dremel to round
cool, Thanks for the quick response
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:29 PM   #7578
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I'm new to the Nitro Sedan scene but I'm jumping in and would like to know which tires usually work well. I'll be racing in Utah and will be racing on parking lot asphalt sprayed with soda. Which shores should I get and be ok with. I'm going to be buying a bunch and want to be covered with warm and cooler wheather.
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:30 AM   #7579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer2
can not find the correct servo arm for my MTX-4 and R.
i use KO servos. do most people just take the ko throttle arms and cut them in half?

any help would be appreciated.
You can buy this one.I use it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHWR1&P=7

This is fit for Mtx-4.
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:22 PM   #7580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb
I'm new to the Nitro Sedan scene but I'm jumping in and would like to know which tires usually work well. I'll be racing in Utah and will be racing on parking lot asphalt sprayed with soda. Which shores should I get and be ok with. I'm going to be buying a bunch and want to be covered with warm and cooler wheather.
If the asphalt is rough, start with 40 or 42 shores

If the asphalt is very smooth start with 35 or 37 shores

If possible shave front and rear by 1 mm with 2.5mm tire split ( front vs rear ). For eg. 62mm front and 64.5mm rear.

The best advice ( because I don't know the track ) you ask experience or winning drivers that will joint the race.

Don't forget to practice one or two days before the race to find the best setup for your car and get friendly with the track layout.

Cheers.
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:05 PM   #7581
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Raced my MTX-4 for the first time this weekend and I was really pleased with it's performance. I ran the kit setup sheet with KFactory wheels (40 shore) and the car was hooked up. I just need to add some rear camber the next time I race it, as the right rear was coning outward a bit.

Someone did take me out going down the back straight during one race and the crash broke off the top left portion of the rear stock shock tower, just after the shock mount. Even though the left rear of the Lola body was flapping around quite a bit, I was able to finish the race.

The only issue I did have, was that I could never get the car to shift into 2nd gear. I was running the stock gearing and it seemed like I was turning out the clutch shoes to the point of almost dissembling it. The straight is about 150ft. Any suggestions? Thanks
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:42 PM   #7582
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
The only issue I did have, was that I could never get the car to shift into 2nd gear. I was running the stock gearing and it seemed like I was turning out the clutch shoes to the point of almost dissembling it. The straight is about 150ft. Any suggestions? Thanks
Your issue is the other way around, you're stuck in second gear!
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:47 PM   #7583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Raced my MTX-4 for the first time this weekend and I was really pleased with it's performance. I ran the kit setup sheet with KFactory wheels (40 shore) and the car was hooked up. I just need to add some rear camber the next time I race it, as the right rear was coning outward a bit.

Someone did take me out going down the back straight during one race and the crash broke off the top left portion of the rear stock shock tower, just after the shock mount. Even though the left rear of the Lola body was flapping around quite a bit, I was able to finish the race.

The only issue I did have, was that I could never get the car to shift into 2nd gear. I was running the stock gearing and it seemed like I was turning out the clutch shoes to the point of almost dissembling it. The straight is about 150ft. Any suggestions? Thanks

How was the take off? Reason I asked was maybe you were stucked on 2nd? Turn both adjusting screw on the 2speed all the way in and then go out 4.5 turns. This should be a pretty good starting point. With the car on the starter box, slowly go to about 3/4 throttle and it should shift. If it doesn't, go out 1/4 turn on both sides and try again. Do this until it shifts.
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Old 03-05-2007, 05:20 PM   #7584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwk2much
Your issue is the other way around, you're stuck in second gear!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
How was the take off? Reason I asked was maybe you were stucked on 2nd? Turn both adjusting screw on the 2speed all the way in and then go out 4.5 turns. This should be a pretty good starting point. With the car on the starter box, slowly go to about 3/4 throttle and it should shift. If it doesn't, go out 1/4 turn on both sides and try again. Do this until it shifts.
Take off was excellent. Coming off throttle or after braking, the car accelerated just fine. You could hear it start to wind out at the end of the straight.

I built the shoes per the kit instructions and started off with that setting. It was not dragging on the 2nd gear housing at all. I measured it and it wasn't even close. I tried adjusting my clutch on a previous weekend and did quarter turns at first, then 1/2 turn - then another 1/2 turn. I must have been up to 3 turns by now - and still no shifting. Then this past weekend, I turned it a 1/2 turn again before a qualifer, another 1/2 turn before a main and when I went to turn it again, I noticed the gap between the shoes and thought I had better stop. I was so busy at the race, that I really didn't have the time to take the shoes completely apart and check it.

I'll have to check how many turns out I am when I get home.
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:34 PM   #7585
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Rmdhawaii,
Have you checked out the second speed shoes? I've managed to loosen the 2 speed adapter (T0233) out of its alignment, causing the shoes to be stuck on 2nd gear housing.
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:50 PM   #7586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Take off was excellent. Coming off throttle or after braking, the car accelerated just fine. You could hear it start to wind out at the end of the straight.

I built the shoes per the kit instructions and started off with that setting. It was not dragging on the 2nd gear housing at all. I measured it and it wasn't even close. I tried adjusting my clutch on a previous weekend and did quarter turns at first, then 1/2 turn - then another 1/2 turn. I must have been up to 3 turns by now - and still no shifting. Then this past weekend, I turned it a 1/2 turn again before a qualifer, another 1/2 turn before a main and when I went to turn it again, I noticed the gap between the shoes and thought I had better stop. I was so busy at the race, that I really didn't have the time to take the shoes completely apart and check it.

I'll have to check how many turns out I am when I get home.
Using the middle set screw, adjust your gap to about 0.2 to 0.3mm. This is done by using your digital caliper and measuring the inside diameter of the 2speed housing and the diameter of the 2speed shoes. Once you get close to 0.2 to 0.3mm gap, then you can seat the 2 screws that hold the shoes together. Like I said on my previous post, go all the way in and then go back out 4.5 turns as a starting point. It's important to set the gap correctly so the shoes doesn't need to expand too much to reach the housing. Depending on the shift point at the track, you can then adjust 1/4 turn increment at a time until you get it to shift where you want. The gap, by the way, is kind of like an adjustable tool also. The bigger the gap, the harder the second will engage and vice versa.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:11 PM   #7587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfro6512
Rmdhawaii,
Have you checked out the second speed shoes? I've managed to loosen the 2 speed adapter (T0233) out of its alignment, causing the shoes to be stuck on 2nd gear housing.
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely check on this.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:57 PM   #7588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
Using the middle set screw, adjust your gap to about 0.2 to 0.3mm. This is done by using your digital caliper and measuring the inside diameter of the 2speed housing and the diameter of the 2speed shoes. Once you get close to 0.2 to 0.3mm gap, then you can seat the 2 screws that hold the shoes together. Like I said on my previous post, go all the way in and then go back out 4.5 turns as a starting point. It's important to set the gap correctly so the shoes doesn't need to expand too much to reach the housing. Depending on the shift point at the track, you can then adjust 1/4 turn increment at a time until you get it to shift where you want. The gap, by the way, is kind of like an adjustable tool also. The bigger the gap, the harder the second will engage and vice versa.


Let's put it this way ...

With all this talk about the clutch engagement being a possible cause of the gear stripping problem (thanks A.I), I was quite surprised to find out what the difference was between the inner diameter of the 2-speed housing and the diameter of the 2-speed shoes when I initially installed both parts, but I figured what the heck, might as well see what all this "violent shifting" was all about. I didn't quite realize how off the initial settings would be from what it needed to be.

This is all good info Jo. I will follow your instructions and take measurements all along the way. If we can put together the ultimate guide to adjusting the 2-speed shoes on an MTX-4, then that would be a good thing for everyone - and perhaps get rid of this gear stripping problem once and for all.

On the RRR, the gap set after following the instructions is minimal, almost to the point of binding up if the 2-speed housing is perfectly circular.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:28 PM   #7589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii



This is all good info Jo. I will follow your instructions and take measurements all along the way. If we can put together the ultimate guide to adjusting the 2-speed shoes on an MTX-4, then that would be a good thing for everyone - and perhaps get rid of this gear stripping problem once and for all.

On the RRR, the gap set after following the instructions is minimal, almost to the point of binding up if the 2-speed housing is perfectly circular.
I mentioned this in my interview with you last year. Here is the actual quote:

"Rainer: A lot of people claim that the MTX-4 has a gear stripping problem? Have you had problems with your gears?

Roger: I had stripped 2nd gears prior to receiving my MTX-4. I talked to various teammates and I came to a conclusion that my 2-speed clutch shoes were not adjusted properly. I had Mike Swauger look at this and he showed me the proper spacing inside the 2-speed hub carrier for proper engagement. Ever since, I had not stripped a 2nd gear. "

BTW: how this the racing this past weekend at Hawaii ?
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:39 PM   #7590
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Nice clarification Rog. Thanks to you, I haven't stripped a gear in months (knocking on wood).


Side note: If the weather holds up, i'll be at your track next monday.
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