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Old 02-15-2007, 06:20 PM   #7396
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Hey A.I., awesome car. I made up my mind and going to join the Mugen club since one of my old LHs are having a limited time sale. Guess my R40 is going to be gone to make up for the car and such. I'm also going to invest in the skyline pipe and install my OS carlsen mod TZ on one clutch system and purchase another clutch system for another practice motor. I may just even get an bone stock TZ for practice since it's fairly cheap. For all the MTx4 guys someone mentioned by just setting the mesh for 2nd gear first solves the stripping problem? I may order my mugen as early as this weekend.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:54 PM   #7397
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Welcome to the Club. Don't worry about your mesh, after 10 or so gears, you'll figure it out. It took me awhile, but i've been strip free for 4 months now...
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:54 PM   #7398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey A.I., awesome car. I made up my mind and going to join the Mugen club since one of my old LHs are having a limited time sale. Guess my R40 is going to be gone to make up for the car and such. I'm also going to invest in the skyline pipe and install my OS carlsen mod TZ on one clutch system and purchase another clutch system for another practice motor. I may just even get an bone stock TZ for practice since it's fairly cheap. For all the MTx4 guys someone mentioned by just setting the mesh for 2nd gear first solves the stripping problem? I may order my mugen as early as this weekend.
It's good choice to pick MTX4 because you already own MRX4. You can save / share some parts like turnbuckles, plastic ball connectors, screws, clutches.

When you build it, I would suggest these :

1. Replace all 3x8mm screws ( rear bulkhead + engine mounting ) with 3x10mm screws. Some parts can accept 3x12mm, its better but not necessary.
2. Dremel the chassis where the clutchbell meet the chassis, or increase the height of the engine by 1mm. ( I prefer to dremel the chassis ).
3. Dremel the side of engine brace ( the plastic that connects rear bulkhead to upper deck ) because the engine brace is very close touching 2nd speed housing adapter.
4. Increase the height of rear stabiliser because the stabiliser bar touch the 2nd speed housing. You can use longer plastic ball connectors.
5. Always clean and re-oil the three bearings inside clutch bell before playing / racing.

Good luck with your purchase.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:00 PM   #7399
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And things to buy while you build it :

Mugen Seiki Front CVD
Kawahara Roll Over Protection
Titanium 3x10mm and 3x12mm screws ( hexagonal countersunk ).
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Old 02-17-2007, 04:09 AM   #7400
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sorry, working on something,
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:56 AM   #7401
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Hurry home so we can get the lowdown on these new SPECIAL MODS so we can all get up to speed with it
Don't leave us hanging RCF, Spill the beans
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:07 AM   #7402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Alright guys done with the build. Was a good build , everything went underway pretty easily. Allthough there were two stripped screws in around the front and rear bulkhead. Only thing that was notable is I had to cut off 10mm of wire on the brake linkage , then bend 10mm. Otherwise would hit the switch and would have needed 20mm of fuel line. Shocks were great , used green slime in the o-rings. Had one not getting rebound , figured out the bladder wasnt holding pressure. Readjusted and it worked great. Also with my TZ motor , the mugen collet and flywheel didnt seem to get down far enough to give me enough clutch gap, it was just rubbing right against the clutch , with zero shims. No gap. Even without a shim behind the collet and torquing down very hard. This made me use the sato Pressure plate which gave me some gap to work with. The other thing was the TZ engine was barely able to get into its spot as well the heatsink rests on the handle of the car. Then for the pipe turned the exhaust holder bracket/spring upside down and entered the top part of the pipe. The brake disc , the brake linkage and the exhaust spring are very tight so take caution with this parts that you have enough clearance. The final bit this was a modification to the 3racing titanium pivot balls. There finish comes a bit machined. So I took some simple mothers aluminum polish and put the ball in between some polish and a paper towell and pivoted the ball in my hand for a minute or two. This really brought a smoother surface and action from the TI Pivot balls.

Rest was perfect.

Heres what went into the build.

Sato LW Middle Shaft
Sato LW Alum Wheel Hex
Sato Pressure Plate
Mugen TI Screw Kit A & B
Mugen Front Universals
Mugen 4mm Rear Damper Stay
Mugen Yellow Clutch Disc
Mugen Hard Spring
Mugen Updated Parts
3Racing 4mm Chassis
3Racing One Piece Engine Mount
3Racing TI Pivot Balls
3Racing CF Bumper Holder
3Racing TI Turnbuckles
3Racing Brake Disc
3Racing 18/24 Pinion Gears
Kfactory Front Body Posts
Kfactory Hard Alum Threaded Flange Balls
Parma Ultimate Bumper
Atomic Mult-Drive (spool/one-way)
Spektrum Micro RX
2 X LW Digital Servos

Total Weight: 1553 G
Weight Guide: Here





I will give my thoughts on the drive next month.
Where did you buy the hpi scale from?How much does it cost?By the way...nice car!!!
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:41 AM   #7403
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yo artificial
are the k factory alum flanged balls like the mugen ones, where you use
the 3mm allen driver to screw?
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:32 PM   #7404
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Sadly no. They do not have the 3mm slot on the other side to allow allen head use. But oddly enough I stuck my 3mm tool in there and it would hold it somehow...not as strong but enough to work with. The good thing is you can capture the other side with a screw. But I was forced to use it only in certain spots which it would work with. Id buy just a 1 8 packet set but the weight savings werent that great , but enough for me to say why not and use em.

I can see which spots they worked on for you and post it up.
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:41 PM   #7405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickiphorosn
Where did you buy the hpi scale from?How much does it cost?By the way...nice car!!!
Jethobby.com - one of the few who carry it. Its called the hpi weight checker. From what ive seen its pretty accurate.

#39013 HPI WEIGHT CHECKER

Jethobby seems kinda odd , but I think you just email them with your order and they get back with you. They sent me my item and a few others I know on here have dealt with them.

http://www.jethobby.com/Mail%20Order.htm
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:23 PM   #7406
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that car is sick with all the optionals

1553g, is the rx battery set? cuz that one is about 100g

use a 3x16mm set screw on the steering post so you can use the 5th body post on the windscreen and remove the edges on the radio tray where it used to be, it's tricky to change the spool or one way for a front diff withouht removing at least some of the screws holding the top of the radio tray,
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:55 PM   #7407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
that car is sick with all the optionals

1553g, is the rx battery set? cuz that one is about 100g

use a 3x16mm set screw on the steering post so you can use the 5th body post on the windscreen and remove the edges on the radio tray where it used to be, it's tricky to change the spool or one way for a front diff withouht removing at least some of the screws holding the top of the radio tray,
Yup battery is in. Not sure if I follow you on the 5th body post?
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:07 PM   #7408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey A.I., awesome car. I made up my mind and going to join the Mugen club since one of my old LHs are having a limited time sale. Guess my R40 is going to be gone to make up for the car and such. I'm also going to invest in the skyline pipe and install my OS carlsen mod TZ on one clutch system and purchase another clutch system for another practice motor. I may just even get an bone stock TZ for practice since it's fairly cheap. For all the MTx4 guys someone mentioned by just setting the mesh for 2nd gear first solves the stripping problem? I may order my mugen as early as this weekend.
Cool glad to see yah hark. Good luck on the mtx4, youll like it. If you got any questions hit me up. Also got the skyline pipes in stock if your interested. Give you a good price. Take care.

-- A.I.
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Old 02-18-2007, 04:58 AM   #7409
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From the Winternats, out of the A,B & C mains, MTX-4's qualified:
A-Main
8. Andrew Duperrouzel - MTX-4
9. Jarred Scott - MTX-4
11. Jame Corrado - MTX-4

B-Main
4. Darin Ishitani - MTX-4

C-Main
3. Brian Thomas - MTX-4
4. Art Carbonell - MTX-4
8. James Burrows - MTX-4

The MTX-4 finnished:
A-Main
7th Jarred Scott - MTX-4
10th. Jame Corrado - MTX-4
11th Andrew Duperrouzel - MTX-4


B-Main
5th Darin Ishitani - MTX-4

C-Main
1st. Art Carbonell - MTX-4
3rd. James Burrows - MTX-4
9th. Brian Thomas - MTX-4
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Last edited by rcfoolz; 02-18-2007 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 02-18-2007, 05:58 AM   #7410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Cool glad to see yah hark. Good luck on the mtx4, youll like it. If you got any questions hit me up. Also got the skyline pipes in stock if your interested. Give you a good price. Take care.

-- A.I.
Most definately. I'd like to snag mine before the sale is over so I'll stop by the store today. R40 is going to be sold - period.
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