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Old 02-15-2007, 07:40 AM   #7381
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anyone interested in a mtx 4 brand new in shrink rap bought three weeks ago, will sell for $350 shipped.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:02 AM   #7382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I think Ishitani still has a very good chance of making it into the A Main during qualifying on Thursday. I think he will really push the car during the last two qualifying rounds. In the past two WinterNats, Darin was in the A Main.

If Art does not make it into the A Main, I think he has a good chance of taking the B Main. He won the first two FORGASS (http://www.forgass.com/) races at Fort Myers this season.

Andrew Duperrouzel is the current FORGASS points leader and has done very well at all the races at Fort Myers during the race season. In the last race there, he finished second behind Barry Baker. Prior to that, 2nd and 3rd.

Brian Thomas still has a good chance of making the B Main, but Robert Maestrey and Bobby Flack are right on top of him - plus he needs to make up 2-3 seconds to get past the Team Kyosho and Serpent guys in front of him - Ron Atomic and Rene Cornella. It's definitely going to be close.

I don't know anything about Jarred Scott... Sorry bro.

Just my 2 cents on the Mugen guys...
Because there's such a significant difference in lap times, would you suspect that it's more of a horsepower issue, than a driver or car issue? That track does not look very technical
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:15 AM   #7383
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Alright guys done with the build. Was a good build , everything went underway pretty easily. Allthough there were two stripped screws in around the front and rear bulkhead. Only thing that was notable is I had to cut off 10mm of wire on the brake linkage , then bend 10mm. Otherwise would hit the switch and would have needed 20mm of fuel line. Shocks were great , used green slime in the o-rings. Had one not getting rebound , figured out the bladder wasnt holding pressure. Readjusted and it worked great. Also with my TZ motor , the mugen collet and flywheel didnt seem to get down far enough to give me enough clutch gap, it was just rubbing right against the clutch , with zero shims. No gap. Even without a shim behind the collet and torquing down very hard. This made me use the sato Pressure plate which gave me some gap to work with. The other thing was the TZ engine was barely able to get into its spot as well the heatsink rests on the handle of the car. Then for the pipe turned the exhaust holder bracket/spring upside down and entered the top part of the pipe. The brake disc , the brake linkage and the exhaust spring are very tight so take caution with this parts that you have enough clearance. The final bit this was a modification to the 3racing titanium pivot balls. There finish comes a bit machined. So I took some simple mothers aluminum polish and put the ball in between some polish and a paper towell and pivoted the ball in my hand for a minute or two. This really brought a smoother surface and action from the TI Pivot balls.

Rest was perfect.

Heres what went into the build.

Sato LW Middle Shaft
Sato LW Alum Wheel Hex
Sato Pressure Plate
Mugen TI Screw Kit A & B
Mugen Front Universals
Mugen 4mm Rear Damper Stay
Mugen Yellow Clutch Disc
Mugen Hard Spring
Mugen Updated Parts
3Racing 4mm Chassis
3Racing One Piece Engine Mount
3Racing TI Pivot Balls
3Racing CF Bumper Holder
3Racing TI Turnbuckles
3Racing Brake Disc
3Racing 18/24 Pinion Gears
Kfactory Front Body Posts
Kfactory Hard Alum Threaded Flange Balls
Parma Ultimate Bumper
Atomic Mult-Drive (spool/one-way)
Spektrum Micro RX
2 X LW Digital Servos

Total Weight: 1553 G
Weight Guide: Here





I will give my thoughts on the drive next month.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 02-15-2007 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:20 AM   #7384
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the brake linkage should not hit if you reverse the triangle pivot out instead of in from the servo horn.


The car looks good.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:48 AM   #7385
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If you get rid of the handle, the motor heat-sink won't hit it. Who needs a handle anyway? Just extra weight. Grab it by the body.

I think you should flip your exhaust hanger/spring over too. That way, if the set-screw comes loose, the pipe won't hit the ground. It looks like the spring is hitting the side pully anyway...

What kind of servos did you use?
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:11 AM   #7386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
If you get rid of the handle, the motor heat-sink won't hit it. Who needs a handle anyway? Just extra weight. Grab it by the body.

I think you should flip your exhaust hanger/spring over too. That way, if the set-screw comes loose, the pipe won't hit the ground. It looks like the spring is hitting the side pully anyway...

What kind of servos did you use?
I have same pipe and spring holder position. once thread lock is added. it won't come loose until I unscrew it even I kiss the wall before. it just stays


Hei, AI. how was the 3racing 4mm compare to Mugen stock. I want to know in case I kiss the wall too hard and need to change chassis.

1553g Is it ROAR legal ?
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:27 AM   #7387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blanks596
Because there's such a significant difference in lap times, would you suspect that it's more of a horsepower issue, than a driver or car issue? That track does not look very technical
In total, it's less than a second difference per lap, so I can't even begin to guess what it might be. Darin would be the best person to ask if you ever get a chance to ask him.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:37 AM   #7388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Also with my TZ motor , the mugen collet and flywheel didnt seem to get down far enough to give me enough clutch gap, it was just rubbing right against the clutch , with zero shims. No gap. Even without a shim behind the collet and torquing down very hard. This made me use the sato Pressure plate which gave me some gap to work with. The other thing was the TZ engine was barely able to get into its spot as well the heatsink rests on the handle of the car.
I sanded my collet down by 0.2mm and that took care of the problem of clutch gap and endplay. I used 400 grit sandpaper and after-run oil. I placed the collet in the flywheel, put two drops of oil on the sandpaper and did eight small figure eights before moving onto the next spot on the sandpaper. I turned the flywheel 90 degrees each time.

The engine compartment is a little too small, IMO. Getting the TZ in and out is somewhat of a pain. I'm using the Kawahara handle on my MTX-4, so contact with the heads are not an issue.

Beautiful picture by the way. I think it is the clearest one I've seen - but then again, your camera does take some pretty awesome pictures.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:43 AM   #7389
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Looks like your handle is on backwards. The top of the handle should be forward not to the rear. Check your manual.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:11 AM   #7390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD
If you get rid of the handle, the motor heat-sink won't hit it. Who needs a handle anyway? Just extra weight. Grab it by the body.

I think you should flip your exhaust hanger/spring over too. That way, if the set-screw comes loose, the pipe won't hit the ground. It looks like the spring is hitting the side pully anyway...

What kind of servos did you use?
Yeah I was thinking about that. But at this point the car is so light im kinda in shock. I will look into the handle removal though. Was thinking about it when installing it , but only cause I wanted a really light car , but I think I over did it this time. LOL.


With body and transponder , itll only add 110 g and I think roar legal is 1725. So Ill be at like 1670...oops. But as I thought the mtx-4 is a good lightweight car thats easy to make lighter. I still have the regular 2speed shaft on there.

I love this car!

As for the exhaust spring. I had to do it , it was weird but otherwise it wasnt going to clear for the skyline pipe. Ill try again though. Is the skyline pipe that short?

Servos are these tower pro servos I found , there like $23 , weigh 30 grams and they seem to be pretty fast.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 02-15-2007 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:25 AM   #7391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle
Looks like your handle is on backwards. The top of the handle should be forward not to the rear. Check your manual.
You know what , I thought to myself perhaps your right. So went looking in the manual and noticed the funniest thing ever.

Ok here goes:

1. Cover picture of the car on the front of the manual , it shows handle angle portion by the servo. (correct way)
2. Page 18 , it shows straight portion of handle next to it.
3. Page 19 , the same.
4. Page 21 , the same.
5. Page 22 , the same.
6. Page 23, HA HA now the angle portion is by the throttle servo like the front page.
7. Page 25 , this is good , on the same page it goes shows 3 times with angle portion near servo and one time with the straight portion near the servo.

So we gotta make sure that the guys at mugen arent drinking and drawing next time....lol.

Thats pretty funny though , check it yourselves youll laugh at the forever changing chassis handle. Which way does it go. With the angle portion nearest the throttle servo. So looks like Ill be fixing that.

Ha.

That will give you the appropriate room for the heatsink.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:36 AM   #7392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I sanded my collet down by 0.2mm and that took care of the problem of clutch gap and endplay. I used 400 grit sandpaper and after-run oil. I placed the collet in the flywheel, put two drops of oil on the sandpaper and did eight small figure eights before moving onto the next spot on the sandpaper. I turned the flywheel 90 degrees each time.

The engine compartment is a little too small, IMO. Getting the TZ in and out is somewhat of a pain. I'm using the Kawahara handle on my MTX-4, so contact with the heads are not an issue.

Beautiful picture by the way. I think it is the clearest one I've seen - but then again, your camera does take some pretty awesome pictures.
Yeah these photos arent that good, I wasnt happy with them. Ill take some more later. I just snapped these real quick after finishing the build last night.

Also thank you for the tip. I may be doing this very soon. I also shaved down my cf top plate in the engine area , you can see a portion of it was a good 1.5mm over the plastic. I did that and it gave me some more wiggle room. But wow , the belt , the flywheel and brake disc are not good friends when you goto put the engine in.
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:30 PM   #7393
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With the handle mounted correctly (top forward) it'll balance better when held by the handle.

I don't think it would be a good idea to remove it as it helps to protect your engine from a roll over or top impact.
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:09 PM   #7394
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you have cut your front bumper perfectly.
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Old 02-15-2007, 05:53 PM   #7395
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Is putting the car in the oven for new cars only? Would it benefit cars that has been already ran for a while?
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