Mugen MTX-4

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Old 02-06-2007, 01:03 PM
  #7306  
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A solid aluminum shaft would be lighter than a solid titanium shaft. I know the mugen option one has some areas turned down a little bit more so it might be the same weight as a solid shaft without any weight reduction. I was just wondering if people have made them before and how they perform (if they break or not). I have access to a lathe and mill and I want to make a couple.
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:27 PM
  #7307  
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believe me, the most mugen team driver leave the s3 o-ring out.

anther thing, does somebody know a shop, where you can buy precut foam bumpers. I hate to cut the original one. It looks everytime sh.. when I cut them.
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3
Has anyone tried a solid aluminum mid-shaft before?

Just checking out the densities, aluminum is almost 3 times less dense than steel
Just installed my Sato liteweight "Hardened" middle shaft.
Stock was 11.7 Grams
Sato's was 4.0 Grams

Well worth the nominal price too for aluminum parts vs ti , etc. I highly doubt it will ever break. Especially it being hardened style aluminum.
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:45 PM
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Thanks for the info AI

Does anyone know how much the MSR titanium shaft weighs?
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jaykay
anther thing, does somebody know a shop, where you can buy precut foam bumpers. I hate to cut the original one. It looks everytime sh.. when I cut them.
Why don't you sand the edges instead of cutting the whole bumper. I simply cut close to the where I want it and then use a pretty thick sand paper to make my job a lot easier..

Hope it helps..
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jaykay
anther thing, does somebody know a shop, where you can buy precut foam bumpers. I hate to cut the original one. It looks everytime sh.. when I cut them.
Why don't you sand the edges instead of cutting the whole bumper? I simply cut close to the where I want it and then use a pretty thick sand paper to make my job a lot easier..

Hope it helps..
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Mugen MTX-4(getting rid of it ASAP!!), O.S. 12TZ(p) T3
Unhappy with the car? How come?
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Unhappy with the car? How come?
I don't know if you recall, but we have a small conversation in the Kyosho thread a while back. To be really honest, I'm sick and tired of the gear stripping problem. I've been on your site(nitrokb.com), really loved it, and tried every solution mentioned in it for this problem. Somehow it keeps huanting me. So far I've stripped 17 gears since buying the car(4 months ago) with a maximum record of 6 in one day.. I'm not kidding..

Maybe I'm not qualified to set it properly,, that is my fault, I know. Seriously, I can't tolerate a car that needs to have it's gears set 99.99999% right or it won't last the day. There has to be a slight margin for human error or inexperience thought of in advance when designing the car. I won't blame Mugen because I have an MRX-4 for over a year now and it runs beautifully with no problems so far.

I will really miss the car and the way it handles,, but in my case I have to be a millionare to maintain it..
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
I don't know if you recall, but we have a small conversation in the Kyosho thread a while back. To be really honest, I'm sick and tired of the gear stripping problem. I've been on your site(nitrokb.com), really loved it, and tried every solution mentioned in it for this problem. Somehow it keeps huanting me. So far I've stripped 17 gears since buying the car(4 months ago) with a maximum record of 6 in one day.. I'm not kidding..

Maybe I'm not qualified to set it properly,, that is my fault, I know. Seriously, I can't tolerate a car that needs to have it's gears set 99.99999% right or it won't last the day. There has to be a slight margin for human error or inexperience thought of in advance when designing the car. I won't blame Mugen because I have an MRX-4 for over a year now and it runs beautifully with no problems so far.

I will really miss the car and the way it handles,, but in my case I have to be a millionare to maintain it..
Sorry. Now I remember. I respond to too many posts...

Yeah, that's a good enough reason alright. In my case, I would probably pick the car up off the pit table and fling it across the track, swearing my head off in the process.
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
I don't know if you recall, but we have a small conversation in the Kyosho thread a while back. To be really honest, I'm sick and tired of the gear stripping problem. I've been on your site(nitrokb.com), really loved it, and tried every solution mentioned in it for this problem. Somehow it keeps huanting me. So far I've stripped 17 gears since buying the car(4 months ago) with a maximum record of 6 in one day.. I'm not kidding..

Maybe I'm not qualified to set it properly,, that is my fault, I know. Seriously, I can't tolerate a car that needs to have it's gears set 99.99999% right or it won't last the day. There has to be a slight margin for human error or inexperience thought of in advance when designing the car. I won't blame Mugen because I have an MRX-4 for over a year now and it runs beautifully with no problems so far.

I will really miss the car and the way it handles,, but in my case I have to be a millionare to maintain it..
Let me help you :

1. Replace all 3x8mm screws ( rear bulkhead + engine mounting ) with 3x10mm screws. Some parts can accept 3x12mm, its better but not necessary.
2. Dremel the chassis where the clutchbell meet the chassis.
3. Dremel the engine brace ( the plastic that connects rear bulkhead to upper deck ) because the engine brace is touching 2nd speed housing adapter.
4. Increase the height of rear stabiliser because the stabiliser touch the 2nd speed housing.
5. Increase pinion size by 1 tooth.
6. Always clean and re-oil the three bearings inside clutch bell before playing / racing.
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Old 02-07-2007, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Let me help you :

1. Replace all 3x8mm screws ( rear bulkhead + engine mounting ) with 3x10mm screws. Some parts can accept 3x12mm, its better but not necessary.
2. Dremel the chassis where the clutchbell meet the chassis.
3. Dremel the engine brace ( the plastic that connects rear bulkhead to upper deck ) because the engine brace is touching 2nd speed housing adapter.
4. Increase the height of rear stabiliser because the stabiliser touch the 2nd speed housing.
5. Increase pinion size by 1 tooth.
6. Always clean and re-oil the three bearings inside clutch bell before playing / racing.
seems most of them prevents the shaft from shocking.
For point5, it means using even number of teeth pinion?
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:33 AM
  #7317  
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Just installed my Sato liteweight "Hardened" middle shaft.
Stock was 11.7 Grams
Sato's was 4.0 Grams

Well worth the nominal price too for aluminum parts vs ti , etc. I highly doubt it will ever break. Especially it being hardened style aluminum.
AI, here are some other weight specs for you.

Originally Posted by kidD
...it's been a while, but I had weighed the Ti screws before installing and then as I pulled the stock screws off I placed them on the scale. If I remember correctly, the stock screws weighed in at about 89-90g. And the Ti's were about 40-45g. But I decided to use aluminum screws for mounting the spur gears and for the diff housings to reduce rotating mass. So I lost a few more g's there as well. I would suggest not to use Ti screws for your engine mounts.

For you weight weenies, here are a few other misc. weight specs I did record:

Stock Main Shaft = 22g vs. Sato Hollow Shaft = 14g
Stock Front Shaft = 12g vs. Sato Shaft = 4g
Mugen Option Brake Disc = 13g vs. PDub Fiber Glass Disc = 3g

I previously drilled out the stock 1st & 2nd gear housings, which weigh as much as the Kawahara's 1st & 2nd. I also milled out the stock pulley adaptors which knocked off 2g per piece. The stock brake pulley adaptor lost 3g and now weighs the same as the Kfactory. Drilled out the spur gears and lost 1.5g per gear. As far as the pulley adaptors go, just buy the MSRs. Trying to lighten the stock ones was a pain to loose significant weigh and keep it balanced at the same time. Plus you'll need a mill, drill press, a prop or wheel balance tool if you do it yourself.
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Let me help you :

1. Replace all 3x8mm screws ( rear bulkhead + engine mounting ) with 3x10mm screws. Some parts can accept 3x12mm, its better but not necessary.
2. Dremel the chassis where the clutchbell meet the chassis.
3. Dremel the engine brace ( the plastic that connects rear bulkhead to upper deck ) because the engine brace is touching 2nd speed housing adapter.
4. Increase the height of rear stabiliser because the stabiliser touch the 2nd speed housing.
5. Increase pinion size by 1 tooth.
6. Always clean and re-oil the three bearings inside clutch bell before playing / racing.
Thanks for the reply asw,,

Sorry If my technical knowledge is not as vast as many members here. But what exactly do you mean by dremel?? I assume it's a machine involved term,, right??

If so,, can you kindly provide a pic of such a machine or process??

I hope i'm not asking for too much here, but I really appreciatte the help so far..
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks for the reply asw,,

Sorry If my technical knowledge is not as vast as many members here. But what exactly do you mean by dremel?? I assume it's a machine involved term,, right??

If so,, can you kindly provide a pic of such a machine or process??

I hope i'm not asking for too much here, but I really appreciatte the help so far..
Dremel is a brand of multi purpose rotary tool. it is now use as "use rotary tool to remove some material from object according to your need "
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:12 PM
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Hey guys!!

I finally got my car cleaned up and it is now listed in the for sale forum. The parts are listed in the same thread. It is not an inexpensive car or parts lot, but it is a very good deal...
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