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Old 01-18-2007, 06:10 AM   #7051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
wow ichy! i didn't know you were so "Japspec" in your Mugen knowledge
Theres a lot that you dont know TomB
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:39 PM   #7052
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Originally Posted by itchy b
light blue
Front 1.6mm 4 coils 31lbs
Rear 1.6mm 5 coils 27lbs
purple
Front 1.5mm 4 coils 25 lbs
Rear 1.5mm 5 coils 21 lbs
Hope that gives you the info you need
What about the rates for dark blue springs from MTX3 prospec ?

( out of topic: I'm glad today I received a package from Mugen Seiki USA, inside are 3 rear bulkheads for my MTX3...... it has been 3 months of waiting ).
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:36 PM   #7053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks Freelance..

I'm looking at the ceramic thrust bearing from Serpent (SER-1388). Any ideas or opinions on this item? Would you happen to know the part number for any thrust bearing of the ones you mentioned?

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3885

Hi all,

So nitromoe, did you buy it?
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:22 PM   #7054
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Originally Posted by Losfer
Hi all,

So nitromoe, did you buy it?
As a matter of fact, I did and am very happy with it.. I strongly recommend it to every Mugen owner who is need of a good performing thrust bearing. I just grease it up a little with thrust grease everytime I take my car to the track
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Old 01-20-2007, 11:55 AM   #7055
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Hello Everyone,

I just purchased this kit and Iam preparing for the build.

I already have:

Updated parts #t0161 & #t0138-b ordered.
3racing ti pillow balls
Yellow Shoe
Sato Lightweight Pressure Plate
Sato Ti Engine Screw kit

Im looking to order some more bits and pieces and need suggestions on whats the best. Hopefully some of you have already tested a few of these so perhaps you can give some comparisons and know the better of the choices.

Ti Screw kit , which one is best / lightest?
Aluminum Wheel Hex (3racing , atomic , mugen updated?)
Chassis (theres a few out there plus the mugen 4mm)
LW Front and 2speed shaft (saw 3racing has a lw 2speed shaft kit)?
1pc Engine Mount

Thats what im going to purchase probably this weekend. The rest ill look into later. But if you have any must have parts that I missed or you thought really benefited the car. Please let me know.

Thanks guys! Cant wait to try this car out.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:27 PM   #7056
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I would recommend the Kawahara aluminum hexes and one-piece engine mount.

Additionally, you should replace the front and rear dog bones with Mugen universals.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:29 PM   #7057
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welcome abord artificial I

mugen only front universals, 4mm shock tower and steel pinions, that's it theżll all give you realiability and the pinions last forever with a 5g increase in weight of course.
if you want performance, you could look at H0774, AND YELLOW CLUTCH.
the rest of pieces are used to lose a few grams here and there, the pillow balls and the titanium screw sets are the ones that will save you more weight. the optionas are endless in brands like kawa, sato, 3 racing, k factory, syline, msr, btech, shooter, and the list goes on
there's no need to use alum hexes, just use a shim 5x8x0.5mm in the front and 2 5x8x0.5mm in the rear axle, you'll get like a 2 degree offset tire and 'the plastic hexes will last 'til a mtx5 arrives for sure, and weight nothing compared to alum
happy racing
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:31 PM   #7058
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Artificial-I,

Good to see you finally got the kit. The first thing that the guys at our track and on this forum recommends is the front CVDs and the 4mm rear shock tower.

You'll see the difference in quality of this kit(MTX-4) compared to your old car(not allowed to use that name in here). Its allot easier to do adjustments to the car when setting it up. The plastic is also allot better. Just don't take out diffs, you almost need to strip half the car compared to the HPI(oops I used that name). But believe me, its worth it. Prepare yourself for a life changing experience. It is allot easier to setup. Stearing is ALLOT better.(No more doggy with wagging tail.)

And you know what. The clutch on this car ACTUALLY works.

To all the other GUYS in this forum. Please be nice to this guy. He helped me and other new drivers to get our R40s running. Almost to a point where it was a competitive car. I've seen the light and made the switch. Finally, he has also seen the light.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:32 PM   #7059
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yo rmd, you were right
3r owner will get an mtx4, lol
aritiificial
please read on this thread or go to nitrokb.com and check the suggestions in order to prevent 2ng gear strippin. before you'll post it here about an issue

happy racing
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:43 PM   #7060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
yo rmd, you were right
3r owner will get an mtx4, lol
aritiificial
please read on this thread or go to nitrokb.com and check the suggestions in order to prevent 2ng gear strippin. before you'll post it here about an issue

happy racing
Yes I have been reading this thread for the past weeks. As well have already read nitrokb.

I have heard of the 2nd gear strips when they first showed up and have been watching the replies and fixes from the start. Its a shame there seems to be no single cause or fix.

I believe the few reasons thought to cause this are of the stock chassis flexing , causing the gears to come out of contact , the other is engine shifting , the other the rear sway bar bending and grinding during flex.

So I guess a stiffer chassis is in order and a tight engine screw with 1pc mount should help that mainly correct? Thats where my questions on which is the best part to help rectify these issues so my kit is nothing but smooth sailing.

Ive got an idea of marking with a hobby blade where the engine sits on the chassis and the chassis mount itself to further prevent motion in this area.

Thanks for the input and please if anyone can answer my above questions on option part reccomendations , that would help me greatly. With the fast paced one thread forums on rctech its sometimes easy to skip over questions. So please please answer if you can.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:46 PM   #7061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
yo rmd, you were right
3r owner will get an mtx4, lol


The deal was too good to pass up. $180 shipped for a car that only run once or twice. When I got it, aside from a few scratches on the bottom, it looked like new! I completely tore down the car and rebuilt it. There were only a few things wrong with it. Notes on the rebuild are here if you are interested:
http://www.nitrokb.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=143

I'm looking forward to running the car this weekend. I'm going to use it to run in the Outlaw/Fuel Open class at our track. Should be fun!
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:08 PM   #7062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


The deal was too good to pass up. $180 shipped for a car that only run once or twice. When I got it, aside from a few scratches on the bottom, it looked like new! I completely tore down the car and rebuilt it. There were only a few things wrong with it. Notes on the rebuild are here if you are interested:
http://www.nitrokb.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=143

I'm looking forward to running the car this weekend. I'm going to use it to run in the Outlaw/Fuel Open class at our track. Should be fun!
Great deal you can't beat that!!!!!!
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:33 PM   #7063
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I just received my mtx-4 for the season 2007. on rcmag.de i will make a photo love story when i built it up. normaly the page is germany but i will try to make it also in eng.
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:42 PM   #7064
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..
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-28-2007 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 01-20-2007, 02:22 PM   #7065
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I will be racing with BTECH-RC hopups:



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