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Old 11-22-2006, 02:17 PM   #6796
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Default Check this part out

aluminium bulk upper
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Old 11-22-2006, 03:12 PM   #6797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump
I just finished building my Mtx-4 and decided to start the engine. I then notice it looks liked my clutch bell somewhat wobbles. Well after investigating I found that the inner two bearings in the clutch are migrating out of the clutch bell so when the clutch engages the only bearing holding the clutch bell centered is the out most bearing. Just looking for any ideas or if some one has seen this. I might swab the inner race of the clutch bell with just a little lock tight and then install the inner two bearings to try to keep them inside the clutch bell when the clutch ingages. This might attribute to stripped gears if the clutch bell is allowed to wobble.
Sounds like you have way too much end play on the clutch bell.
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Old 11-22-2006, 03:38 PM   #6798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbeats
aluminium bulk upper
it look nice and heavy , who make it ?
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Old 11-22-2006, 05:59 PM   #6799
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My end play is set at .2mm. I use feeler gauges to check the gap between the thrust bearing and clutch bell. That what is was before I started the engine I'll check it again.
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:10 PM   #6800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump
I just finished building my Mtx-4 and decided to start the engine. I then notice it looks liked my clutch bell somewhat wobbles. Well after investigating I found that the inner two bearings in the clutch are migrating out of the clutch bell so when the clutch engages the only bearing holding the clutch bell centered is the out most bearing. Just looking for any ideas or if some one has seen this. I might swab the inner race of the clutch bell with just a little lock tight and then install the inner two bearings to try to keep them inside the clutch bell when the clutch ingages. This might attribute to stripped gears if the clutch bell is allowed to wobble.


Actually, I think you mentioned something very interesting. I noticed the wobble from my clutch but I have not had any issues with stripping gears. However, to enough of a degree, the wobble could be the culprit of mysterious gear stripping affected some of us.

What I noticed is that if I shim the inside of the clutch bearings out enough to avoid clutch bell drag, the innermost clutch bearing may not be fully seated in the clutchbell.
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:04 PM   #6801
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The way i think it should work is the bearings should be captured inside the clutch bell with maybe a snap ring and the movement of the clutch should come from the inner race of the bearing moving on the engine crankshaft.
Not the clutch bell moving on the outer race of the bearings.

just my two cents
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:06 AM   #6802
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Default over drive?

What front pulley is the over drive pulley the 24t or 25t?
I thought that the standard 25t pulley is over drive allready?
does the 24 over drive it more.
Im tyring to work it out but my brain is not working right today.
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:34 AM   #6803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragent
What front pulley is the over drive pulley the 24t or 25t?
I thought that the standard 25t pulley is over drive allready?
does the 24 over drive it more.
Im tyring to work it out but my brain is not working right today.
24t give you more spin in the front.
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:08 AM   #6804
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Hi guys,
What's the general consensus in regards to the 4 mm chassis? I would prefer the chassis to be recessed to maintain the existing roll centres, so I guess that excludes all but the Mugen or Kawahara (please correct me if I am wrong). I know the Mugen chassis is not compatible with a monoblock engine mount, so I am currently considering the Kawahara. Has anyone had any positive experiences with a particular chassis?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:13 AM   #6805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNACKPACK
Hi guys,
What's the general consensus in regards to the 4 mm chassis? I would prefer the chassis to be recessed to maintain the existing roll centres, so I guess that excludes all but the Mugen or Kawahara (please correct me if I am wrong). I know the Mugen chassis is not compatible with a monoblock engine mount, so I am currently considering the Kawahara. Has anyone had any positive experiences with a particular chassis?
Thanks in advance.
yes go for either the mugen or kawahara i have had both the kawahara can be sourced cheaper than the mugen one and as you say is one piece compatable and also has some nice milling features on it
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:15 AM   #6806
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Thank's for your reply Greg, I think I will try the Kawahara.
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:21 AM   #6807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb
yes go for either the mugen or kawahara i have had both the kawahara can be sourced cheaper than the mugen one and as you say is one piece compatable and also has some nice milling features on it
keep in mind snackpack sometimes the mugen 4 handles better with a 3mm chassis.

if you are on a small to med track with normal to low grip, maybe a 3mm chassis wil be better suited
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:27 AM   #6808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
keep in mind snackpack sometimes the mugen 4 handles better with a 3mm chassis.

if you are on a small to med track with normal to low grip, maybe a 3mm chassis wil be better suited
i have run my car on the above tracks with both the 3mm and 4mm chassis and the car handles as good or better with the 4mm chassis as always it is all in the car setup.also the extra stiffness is invaluable to ensure the 2nd gear problems are reduced
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:33 AM   #6809
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All very valid points, thank's for the input guys.
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Old 11-24-2006, 04:53 AM   #6810
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From the stock setings. What is a ball park setting for the two speed clutch.
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