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Old 10-30-2006, 09:11 PM   #6676
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hi Scott , how about if i move up the rear shocks or lay down the front ? will it help ?

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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Traction rolling... This is something I am very good at. I like a car that has a lot of steering, because I drive with a jerky motion. I am not that smooth with the steering input. While I use a combination of things to try and eliminate traction rolling, I would use the following things most/all of which have been mentioned.

1. Make your tires smaller. At Revelation raceway (low tire wear, very very very very very high traction) in Cal I have started races with my front tires as small as 55.5mm.

2. Harder tires. This helps a lot too.

3. Stiffen front sway bar.

4. Adjust front upstops so there is very little room for a-arm movement.


While in theory the stiffer springs should help, I have always found when I put stiffer springs on the car traction rolls easier... especially in areas where you are changing directions quickly and often (chicanes, etc).
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:10 PM   #6677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
hi Scott , how about if i move up the rear shocks or lay down the front ? will it help ?
moving the rear shocks up will decrease rear grip
Moving the front shocks down will increase front grip
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:15 PM   #6678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
moving the rear shocks up will decrease rear grip
Moving the front shocks down will increase front grip

What itchy says goes for me. I think if you do these things you will make the traction rolling worse. I have also found that shock postion changes are subtle. When traction rolling is a problem, the tire size and shore are the most effective ways to cure that problem.

I see Jose lurking around in here. I think we should get the perspective of a factory Mugen driver
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:17 PM   #6679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
what do you guys do when experience traction rolling besides using harder compound ? will reduce rear droop do the trick or laying the rear shock down ?
hi Tag next time you are at the track try this run your tires small about 56.5 through 57.5 fronts .Then depending on over drive pully set rear tires acordily. This is the trick when you cut your front tires do not round the edges and see what happens .This works very well fof me
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:21 PM   #6680
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I told you we needed the perspective from a factory driver!!! And he delivers
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:22 PM   #6681
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HEY WHATS UP SCOTT!
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:26 PM   #6682
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I cured my traction roll problem with softer springs ( purple 1.6 ), more front camber like 2.5 degree, and rear camber 4 degree.
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:08 AM   #6683
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I think that you can take the shims out from under the front upper A arms and that will help the roll overs also.
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:10 AM   #6684
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does anybody in the usa stock the kawahara k883 spool/front one way for the mtx4 ?
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:14 AM   #6685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H STAMEN
does anybody in the usa stock the kawahara k883 spool/front one way for the mtx4 ?
I just got one from RCNITRONATION.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:47 AM   #6686
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I just had my first Regional race this weekend, and made it to the 40 minute A-Main!! All of my Qualifiers went fine, other than hitting the wall a few times. But, only 2 minutes into the main, I started stripping gears, and not knowing why. I used a brand new red clutch shoe for the weekend in my Sirio, but did not know that I had to re-adjust my clutch after breaking in the shoe.. I honestly had no idea that I had to do that. I noticed that when I was replacing my spur gears with the engine running, the clutch bell was contantly spinning, so when i would hit my breaks, it would rip up both of my spur gears. Was the cause of this situation me not reajdusting my clutch by adding shims, or was it something else? And for all of you sportsman out there, please pay attention to the replies so this doesn't happen to you!!
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:01 AM   #6687
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It sounds like your clutch-bell was locked. Its important to shim it right and before your start the motor, make sure everything spins backward free of friction. Also, when you grab your clutch-bell and try to push it in and pull it out, before mounting it to the car, there should not be that much play. Very little. And stay ontop of the thrust-bearing.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:10 AM   #6688
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Sounds like you have a locked up clutch, or a bad bearing.

You do need to re-adjust the clutch after the shoe breaks in, check it after every run. It should be completely seated (broke in) to the clutch bell after about 3 to 5 runs.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:23 AM   #6689
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I don't think that its so much that the clutch is locked up, but the 2 speed might be locked. If its stripping both gears, check that the 1 way for first is free and then the 2 speed is set propperly
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:54 AM   #6690
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There is possibility of shifting engine location after few hits to wall. Need engine re-alignment again, and try spin test for spur / pinion gears.
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