Mugen MTX-4
10-18-2006, 08:19 PM
#6526
Originally Posted by BeBop
could you direct me to where to get parts online besides ace hoobies and nitrohouse, my LHS takes forever to get parts. Looking for parts to make a front diff.
I found this at nitrohouse
Fr. Universal Joint Set
Is this all I need to make a front diff. not a front one way which come with the kit
Thanks
I found this at nitrohouse
Fr. Universal Joint Set
Is this all I need to make a front diff. not a front one way which come with the kit
Thanks
Q: What parts do I need to build a front diff?
A (Scott Fisher):
T0258 Diff pulley
T0202 Diff cup
C0228 Diff gear (manual says it comes without the little o-rings
T0243 S3 (little o-rings)
T0244 S5 (bigger o-rings)
C0227 Spacer
B06401 2x6 screws. You might already have some of these.
T0215 Joint pin
If you ever need any quick fixes, check out the FAQ's at http://www.nitrokb.com/mtx4/
it's pretty resourceful.
10-18-2006, 08:49 PM
#6527
Originally Posted by ttso
I'm planning to go for LiPo and lower tank as low as possible. But I wanna be sure I didn't get it wrong.
I'm using Mugen 4mm chassis and stock 2F mount. Is the red area right area to dremel? is there other place I need to dremel to lower tank?
I'm using Mugen 4mm chassis and stock 2F mount. Is the red area right area to dremel? is there other place I need to dremel to lower tank?
10-18-2006, 08:54 PM
#6528
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
For me, the cost is not an issue because I can use the Lipo Rx for Micro Night racing and the size is easy enought to transfer into my other nitro cars that cannot fit 5cell NiMh flat packs. Plus a Lipo pack will out last 10+ NiMh packs. So please don't make cost an issue. For a $100 you can get a Lipo pack, regulator AND a charger. You can maybe get 3-4 NiMh Rx packs for that price.
As Rainer mentioned, you can also lower your tank. On a Kawahara chassis it's much easier because there's already a cutout in the chassis between the rear batt.tray screws. On the Mugen chassis, you'll have to break out the Dremel for a bit.
Now I used to think the same as others have. "If I change my battery weight, it'll screw up my handling...etc." Seriously though, don't knock it till you try it. Corner speeds are faster, transitions faster, off the line is faster, and Wally, tire wear is better. If you feel like somethings not right, do something about your setup. Don't be afraid to venture away from the ol' trusty stock setup. Lighter is faster, and Lipos have already changed RC for the better... More power, longer run times, no pricey matched cells, longer life. Amain
As Rainer mentioned, you can also lower your tank. On a Kawahara chassis it's much easier because there's already a cutout in the chassis between the rear batt.tray screws. On the Mugen chassis, you'll have to break out the Dremel for a bit.
Now I used to think the same as others have. "If I change my battery weight, it'll screw up my handling...etc." Seriously though, don't knock it till you try it. Corner speeds are faster, transitions faster, off the line is faster, and Wally, tire wear is better. If you feel like somethings not right, do something about your setup. Don't be afraid to venture away from the ol' trusty stock setup. Lighter is faster, and Lipos have already changed RC for the better... More power, longer run times, no pricey matched cells, longer life. Amain
10-18-2006, 09:04 PM
#6529
as far as i know and this is from pro real car guys CG is fixed on a car and RC is not effected by weight of the car.
10-18-2006, 09:08 PM
#6530
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
With regards to lightening and changing the CG. I do not know where the actual CG on the car lies. I can say this. By lightening certain parts... even ones slightly below the CG you can still improve your car. If that part is part of the drivetrain you will have the effect of increased power. My car still uses nimh batteries and is already under race legal weight. If I remove weight no matter where it is and then replace it in a lower spot I have lowered the CG. At this point if I put in a lipo pack (my car is already under legal weight) I would have to add lead back onto the car in the same amount of weight I just removed. Removing weight from the car is a good thing I just think that a lipo battery pack is the least beneficial place to do it.
With regards to ti pillow balls and strength. I can only give my experience. I had an MTX3 prospec and got an MTX4 as soon as they go to the USA. I kept the ti pillow balls off the MTX3. I have only bent two of them in two years. I have never broken one.
With regards to ti pillow balls and strength. I can only give my experience. I had an MTX3 prospec and got an MTX4 as soon as they go to the USA. I kept the ti pillow balls off the MTX3. I have only bent two of them in two years. I have never broken one.
10-18-2006, 09:54 PM
#6531
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
You are wrong. The CG of the car is not at all fixed. Changing where the weight is placed (top deck to chassis) will definitely alter the CG. Why do you think when we add weight to the car we don't stick it to the body? Its because you make the car more top heavy.... you would be raising the CG.
" Of course, the battery location is fixed. The CG of the car is already fixed ( all hardwares like servos, etc are already place below upper deck ). However I'm not sure with load transfer. Sometimes weight is necessary to make grip. Minor adjustment like changing oil weight maybe needed, but I think it is marginal.... hard to tell until you try it. "
The CG in MTX 4 is already fix because all all hardwares are already bolt on to upper deck. Unless we make extreme modification to upper deck such as lowering it even more ( which is impossible ), only then the CG will be change.
10-18-2006, 10:04 PM
#6532
Lets drop down the CG subject guys...... its boring.
Lets exchange photos of our car when it was new and present
( give me time...... I'm in the office ). My goodness, my mind often think RC and less office duty !!!
Lets exchange photos of our car when it was new and present
( give me time...... I'm in the office ). My goodness, my mind often think RC and less office duty !!!
10-18-2006, 10:46 PM
#6533
RC is fixed because suspension geo if fixed. Changing weight placement wont change RC. Only changing suspension geo would change RC.
CG is different story. CG is highly weight and place related. If you put something heavy on high place, like a 500g body, CG will rise with no doubt. If you remove something heavy from bottom of car, like battery, CG will rise as well because there is no counter weight on bottom, UNLESS your original CG is under chassis (which is impossible, you know that).
You can see CG as center point of seesaw, and your car seat virtically on top of center of seesaw, on the left is bottom, on the right is top. If you move some weight away from left, the seesaw will lean right, so you need to move the care more to left to keep it balanced, CG is higher. Check my handdraw in attachment.
In fact there CG is a point at 3D space. But usually we refer to the one on height. The left/right and front/rear CG acturally affect wheel balance.
So yes, use lighter battery like LiPo might make CG higher, but also make entire car lighter. So it's hard to say if it's good or bad, I need to drive it to tell. Oh btw, I do tell the weight change due to fuel usage, the corner is slightly different....
CG is different story. CG is highly weight and place related. If you put something heavy on high place, like a 500g body, CG will rise with no doubt. If you remove something heavy from bottom of car, like battery, CG will rise as well because there is no counter weight on bottom, UNLESS your original CG is under chassis (which is impossible, you know that).
You can see CG as center point of seesaw, and your car seat virtically on top of center of seesaw, on the left is bottom, on the right is top. If you move some weight away from left, the seesaw will lean right, so you need to move the care more to left to keep it balanced, CG is higher. Check my handdraw in attachment.
In fact there CG is a point at 3D space. But usually we refer to the one on height. The left/right and front/rear CG acturally affect wheel balance.
So yes, use lighter battery like LiPo might make CG higher, but also make entire car lighter. So it's hard to say if it's good or bad, I need to drive it to tell. Oh btw, I do tell the weight change due to fuel usage, the corner is slightly different....
10-18-2006, 11:36 PM
#6534
What drawing is that 
Hope these settle it.
Hope these settle it.
10-19-2006, 12:39 AM
#6536
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I like the Sato hollow shaft and light weight front shaft. They don't make a mono mount do they? Where did you find those mounts?
Where I got them, uhm... seem to remember that got from Mr. Lam at Harmony Models (HK) around 2003.
I have a pair of sets and never let me down (I have each engine with their own engine mounts and complete clutch, so switches are quicker).
10-19-2006, 12:42 AM
#6537
Originally Posted by itchy b
if you want to get a lipo pack and lower the cg maybe these might help 
they can also be a cheap alternative to TI pillow balls
it may also increase rear end grip
they can also be a cheap alternative to TI pillow balls
it may also increase rear end grip
10-19-2006, 01:09 AM
#6538
Originally Posted by Corse-R
The problem could be if the suspension bottoms out. A big ouch could be heard over the sound of the engines.
10-19-2006, 02:13 AM
#6540
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
The CG of the car is not fixed and can be raised or lowered.
It doesn't make sense if you put all servos etc above the upper deck to support your theory.