Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

Because I have the 1 piece engine mount, and the Mugen Chassis doesn't provide for it!!

Corse-R

Some people grinded a little the carb linkage (I didn't needed to do, simply I rotated it until it didn't hit on the radio plate). You can move it with a 1mm allen key, loosen the grub screw locate on the opposite side, relocate it and tighten another time.

If this isn't enough, you can grind a little with a sanding roll the place where the carb barrel touches with the radio plate.

AMGRacer

Yep I messed around with it further and now I have got it in without modifications to anything. Just got the carb just right angle and I could remove the shims.

madbeats

Am looking to hop up my MTX4 can you guy's recomend some..

BIGTACO

iTrader: (11)

I am looking to turn my one way front into a front spool. Somewhere in this forum a guy shows how to do it using grumet screws and jb weld. He made really nice step by step pics and everything. For the life of me I can't find it. Does anyone know where it is buried in this forum?

richey

JayL

what Brake setup?
track: 120x70 asphalt untreated

I have:
stock disk
Mugen Vent disk

and
Stock pads
Teflon pads
Blue Pads


Thanks

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

You asked about the 3mm chassis and with that chassis you can use a 1 piece engine mount no problem. With the 4mm Mugen chassis you cannot use the 1 piece engine mount.

Rody

Hollow 2 speed shaft and middle shaft. (Sato Seiki, or Five star) Dont use titanium.
Lightweight 1st and 2nd gear housings (Kawahara)
Blade Type rear swaybar (Knack or Kawahara)
Front Multi-diff (Kawahara)
Titanium upper screw set (Mugen Seiki)
Front and rear Universals (Mugen Seiki)
4mm Rear shock tower (Mugen or Kawahara)
These are items that will actually make a difference to the performance of the car. Most of the others are just cosmetic. Visit www.nitrokb.com

Avoid 3 racing and other crap out there. Kawahara is the real deal!

going4#1

Agree with Kawahara. Top tier aftermarket parts. 3Racing is a real toss up with about 60 percent of the stuff I've used being a real disappointment. Some of the tools aren't bad but the parts are just not up to Kawahara quality.

Experience with Ti 2-speed shafts? AVOID Ti for this part. Didn't work well on my Serpent or Mugen. Went with the hollow shaft and it worked out great.

wallyedmonds

3racing chassis looks like a kanack but it bends easy Kfacktory rear shaft is great kawahara rear sway and the 4mm kanack chassis is stiffer than the mugen and you can use a 1 piece motor mount i use the kawahara one, and a must aswell is the alloy wheel hexs and front cvds just use mugen cvds all others break, another thing that works well is the bat tray from yes 3racing its stiff and you can mount it tight with the us of 2mm washers and i use the 3racing upper deck brace and rear pod brace,now you dont need alot of hopups but to make the car work that little bit better and stay together longer in a long race they help ti balls help only in weght so if you dont have them dont bother or if you have the $ or wait for the prospec car if you wait for the prospc car you wont need alot of stuff just the upper deck brace and the rear pod brace and the rear blade sway and the ti screws this just helps with weght for the front i run it stock nothing hoped up there but if you wont to run a spool get the kawahara it works and its light.

kidDynomite

Has anyone tried the new Front Uprights TO138-B?

Looks like you can now play with some bump steer tuning
I think it's beefier too.



Nice lid Wally!

kidDynomite

Here's the pic.

kidDynomite

I agree, go with the hollow steel for a light 2-speed shaft. SATO makes a good one. Ti is too soft to handle one-way bearings. I would have thought that Mugen would have come out with there own hollow steel shaft by now.

And remember, try to avoid Ti screws in aluminum parts...cold fusion. And don't use engine mounting Ti screw kits.

twoo

Everyone at the Worlds was given 2 optional parts. The new hub does not seems to do much. It change your steering rod to be level with the track. Then some shim it back to close to where it was anyway. The second one is the carbon fibre camber link for the rear. It moves your camber link toward the inside with new holes.

With the limited partice time at the Worlds, it was difficult to see what the new part does.