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Old 10-07-2006, 05:27 AM   #6361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira
I am using the MTX3 PROSPEC mounts, and you need to shim the engine if you are using the 4mm chassis.(With the STI)

Tommy, I will mill the chassis to use the one piece. Do you like the pulleys I milled?
oh are you using the mugen chassis if so than yes this is why i use the kanack chassis 4mm.
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Old 10-07-2006, 03:26 PM   #6362
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Well I set my foot down and will definately get a Mugen sedan. Any of you plan on waiting to see if there is a prospec kit? I personally would rather buy a bone stock kit and try a few upgrades from skyline in which I've seen people run at ma ny events with great success. Any lil tips I should know about the stock kit? The season is dead now, but I still want to mop up any few leftover events and get some practice time.
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Old 10-07-2006, 03:43 PM   #6363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Well I set my foot down and will definately get a Mugen sedan. Any of you plan on waiting to see if there is a prospec kit? I personally would rather buy a bone stock kit and try a few upgrades from skyline in which I've seen people run at ma ny events with great success. Any lil tips I should know about the stock kit? The season is dead now, but I still want to mop up any few leftover events and get some practice time.
Im selling mine.
Good price, has almost every upgrade, tons of spares.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...58#post2706458
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Old 10-07-2006, 04:14 PM   #6364
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I saw the pics..... awesome quantity of spare parts.
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Old 10-07-2006, 09:46 PM   #6365
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Indeed!! Too bad someone got to it first. I still wonder about the cost of shipping.
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:14 AM   #6366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Indeed!! Too bad someone got to it first. I still wonder about the cost of shipping.
Get the bone stock and get the front CVD's from second zero, then, start adding hop-ups as you want/need.

The ProSpec (or whatever they would call it) is not even announced.
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Old 10-08-2006, 05:56 AM   #6367
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Sounds good. Consider it done.
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Old 10-08-2006, 06:27 AM   #6368
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ya just get the stock kit so you have the stock chassis and if you want you can get the 4mm one later,yep front cvd,alloy wheel hex, blade rear sway kawahara one is best, after that its up to you,and ya that guy have so many parts he can open a store i have 1/4 of that you dont need all that cuz mugens dont break
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:22 AM   #6369
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Yep, I've been playing snap on with my R40 cuz shit kept gettin knocked off or easily breaking the front cvas since they are made of a cheap material. I'm already gathering $$ for some guys mtx4 parts and soon get the car. I can't wait to get it!
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:18 PM   #6370
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HarkonnenD, you got PM.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:24 PM   #6371
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Does the 4mm chassis makes that big a difference? Does it make the car turn better with less push?
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:58 PM   #6372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jam rock
Does the 4mm chassis makes that big a difference? Does it make the car turn better with less push?
There is so many adjustments on the car to get steering. I would hold off on the 4mm if your stock chasis is still good.

suggestions:

Droop settings
Ackerman
Caster and rear bottom arm possition diff oil.
front roll centers via adding and removing shims
shock position.
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:04 PM   #6373
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Has anyone had any experience with the 3Racing 3mm chassis??
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:09 PM   #6374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Has anyone had any experience with the 3Racing 3mm chassis??
Why not Mugen original ?

I'm not sure the grade material use in 3 racing despite of 7075 quotation.
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:06 AM   #6375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Uh, Oh... Shimming an engine on the motor mount is asking for problems (better to not do). It can drive to faulty heat transfer to the chassis and or excessive crankcase deformations and breakage on the short term.

There are different motor mount out here just for clearing those 0.5mm you need to go up (which kind of chassis you're using? Stock 3mm, Mugen 4mm, Kawahara?). The stock 3mm has a mill for clearing the crankcase by their lower side. Find a competent machinist that could make you out from a stock 7075 Aluminium sheet a pair of 0.5mm supplemental pieces just to hold your engine by the crankcase ears (or better to... by the underside of the engine mounts).

Mine motor mounts (have some) measure around 14mm high, maybe you need to look for a 14.5mm high engine mount (look on the old RRR engine mounts or similar if I'm not wrong, the original RRR had a slightly higher motor mounts).
Yeah I have bone stock MTX4, everything fits perfectly well except that the slide of the carb hits the top deck. The 0.5mm is required to get the slide to miss the top deck. I will take a look to see if I have some slightly higher engine mounts, this sounds like a good idea, I was slightly nervous of the shimming as well.
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