Mugen MTX-4
#6361
Originally Posted by ira
I am using the MTX3 PROSPEC mounts, and you need to shim the engine if you are using the 4mm chassis.(With the STI)
Tommy, I will mill the chassis to use the one piece. Do you like the pulleys I milled?
Tommy, I will mill the chassis to use the one piece. Do you like the pulleys I milled?
#6362
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Well I set my foot down and will definately get a Mugen sedan. Any of you plan on waiting to see if there is a prospec kit? I personally would rather buy a bone stock kit and try a few upgrades from skyline in which I've seen people run at ma ny events with great success. Any lil tips I should know about the stock kit? The season is dead now, but I still want to mop up any few leftover events and get some practice time.
#6363
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Well I set my foot down and will definately get a Mugen sedan. Any of you plan on waiting to see if there is a prospec kit? I personally would rather buy a bone stock kit and try a few upgrades from skyline in which I've seen people run at ma ny events with great success. Any lil tips I should know about the stock kit? The season is dead now, but I still want to mop up any few leftover events and get some practice time.
Good price, has almost every upgrade, tons of spares.
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...58#post2706458
#6364
I saw the pics..... awesome quantity of spare parts.
#6366
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Indeed!! Too bad someone got to it first. I still wonder about the cost of shipping.
The ProSpec (or whatever they would call it) is not even announced.
#6368
ya just get the stock kit so you have the stock chassis and if you want you can get the 4mm one later,yep front cvd,alloy wheel hex, blade rear sway kawahara one is best, after that its up to you,and ya that guy have so many parts he can open a store i have 1/4 of that you dont need all that cuz mugens dont break
#6371
Tech Rookie
Does the 4mm chassis makes that big a difference? Does it make the car turn better with less push?
#6372
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by jam rock
Does the 4mm chassis makes that big a difference? Does it make the car turn better with less push?
suggestions:
Droop settings
Ackerman
Caster and rear bottom arm possition diff oil.
front roll centers via adding and removing shims
shock position.
#6374
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Has anyone had any experience with the 3Racing 3mm chassis??
I'm not sure the grade material use in 3 racing despite of 7075 quotation.
#6375
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Uh, Oh... Shimming an engine on the motor mount is asking for problems (better to not do). It can drive to faulty heat transfer to the chassis and or excessive crankcase deformations and breakage on the short term.
There are different motor mount out here just for clearing those 0.5mm you need to go up (which kind of chassis you're using? Stock 3mm, Mugen 4mm, Kawahara?). The stock 3mm has a mill for clearing the crankcase by their lower side. Find a competent machinist that could make you out from a stock 7075 Aluminium sheet a pair of 0.5mm supplemental pieces just to hold your engine by the crankcase ears (or better to... by the underside of the engine mounts).
Mine motor mounts (have some) measure around 14mm high, maybe you need to look for a 14.5mm high engine mount (look on the old RRR engine mounts or similar if I'm not wrong, the original RRR had a slightly higher motor mounts).
There are different motor mount out here just for clearing those 0.5mm you need to go up (which kind of chassis you're using? Stock 3mm, Mugen 4mm, Kawahara?). The stock 3mm has a mill for clearing the crankcase by their lower side. Find a competent machinist that could make you out from a stock 7075 Aluminium sheet a pair of 0.5mm supplemental pieces just to hold your engine by the crankcase ears (or better to... by the underside of the engine mounts).
Mine motor mounts (have some) measure around 14mm high, maybe you need to look for a 14.5mm high engine mount (look on the old RRR engine mounts or similar if I'm not wrong, the original RRR had a slightly higher motor mounts).